Nanyang Island

Nanyang Island

Nanyang Island is located in Nanyang Lake in the northern part of Weishan Lake. The town is built along the ancient canal embankment, long and narrow. From a distance, it resembles a green pipa lying quietly across Weishan Lake.

Nanyang Island is tranquil nowadays. But it was once bustling with activity. In the era before the Tianjin–Pukou Railway was built and when the Beijing–Hangzhou Grand Canal teemed with vessels, every morning and evening, on the Grand Canal that ran through the town, many sailboats bid it farewell, while many others found their way to its embrace. It was just a one-day journey from here to Jining, a historic city and commercial hub in southwestern Shandong. Cargo boats from southern cities like Suzhou and Hangzhou, laden with silk, rice, delicacies, and fine foods; as well as boat convoys traveling north and south from Tongzhou Prefecture—all moored here for the night. The canal within the island was crowded with masts and sails, with boats packed together like ants or insects. Benefiting from water transport, it flourished rapidly. Along the narrow streets of the town, shops stood in great numbers, attracting merchants from far and wide. Amid the bustling crowd could be heard the soft tones of Wu dialect, the rugged local Shandong vernacular, and the refined accents of Beijing. High-quality grain from counties around the lake such as Jin, Jia, Yu, Teng, and Zou were loaded onto boats here, while local specialties from southwestern Shandong were distributed and traded… Though time has swept away the masts and sails on the Grand Canal and dried up its waters, it has not erased the natural beauty bestowed upon Nanyang Island. As a port and commercial hub, Nanyang Island may no longer exist, but as a quaint water town immersed in the pristine waters of Weishan Lake, it still captivates people with its charm.

Nanyang Island is truly beautiful. The vast, serene, and crystal-clear waters of Weishan Lake embrace it gently all day long. Around the lake, small fishing villages are scattered like stars. Some consist of just three or five households, others a dozen or so. In spring, when the wind turns warm and the willows turn green, these fishing villages are like emerald pearls embedded around the island. When autumn arrives and the wind picks up, the reeds and cattails across the lake turn golden, making it seem as if the island is lying on a golden silk tapestry. The townsfolk live either along the river or facing the lake. There are small courtyards enclosed by reeds and thatch, as well as tall red-brick houses, all tucked away among the willows and reeds, with windows shielded by lotus and cattails. In front of and behind the houses lies a stretch of blue water. Stone arch bridges span the canal that runs through the town. Beneath the bridges, the sound of paddling echoes softly, while the sounds of vendors hawking their wares fill the air—much like a small town in the Jiangnan region.

The people of Nanyang Town make a living through commerce, shipping, and fishing. At dawn, with the lake glistening and the morning glow weaving a tapestry of red, boats set out onto the lake. Those heading to fish traps to gather fish move forward in a line, their double oars fluttering like wings, gently propelling them toward the lake’s center. Cargo boats fitted with oars cleave through the blue waves, heading for Baisha Port in the east of the lake. Meanwhile, boats bound for trade beyond the lake had already vanished into the dark waters in the middle of the night. The people here are hardworking. In spring, they fish and raise ducks; in summer, they cut grass and set fish traps; in autumn, they harvest lotus seeds and water chestnuts. Laughter and singing, along with the sounds of oars, echo across the contracted lake areas.

There is also a small street on the island, very narrow, with houses on both sides packed closely together. Walking into it, you often feel as if you’ve reached a dead end—until you round a corner and suddenly find yourself in a bright, open space. The town government, hospital, school, shops, and even a guesthouse are all located on this small street. There is also a small market here. Before dawn, boats from the fishing villages on the lake arrive at the dock, filling the shore. The silver scales of fish glint in the early light, and the calls of geese and ducks echo throughout the town.

On the small street, shopfronts are covered with lotus leaves—tens of them, a sea of green. While it is still early, in the half-light of dawn, the street flickers with the glow of lanterns and moving shadows. Wild ducks are laid out on the lotus leaves. The waters beneath Weishan Lake are rich in wild aquatic plants, which the ducks love to eat. In winter, when the northern cold becomes unbearable, they migrate south and spend the season here. Duck-hunting gear such as long poles and shotguns, as well as duck-hunting boats, are common sights in town. Amid the surging waves whipped up by the cold wind, hunters in the town—wearing white hats and white clothing—hide among the reeds or quietly conceal themselves in the shadows, crouching in small boats to hunt ducks. With the keen eyes of hunters, they search for the wild ducks roosting overnight, guided by the slightest unusual sound in the water or the faintest cry. Throughout the entire winter, Nanyang Town remains busy. When the sun rises, its bright rays shine over half the street. The ducks laid out on the lotus leaves are plump, glossy, and glistening with an inviting golden hue. At the busiest times, there are no fewer than a hundred duck-cooking stalls on Nanyang Island. Here, wild ducks are sold not by weight but in linked pairs. Two ducks make one set, four ducks make another, three ducks form a trio, and six ducks—also called “lonely ducks” or “zhang chicken”—make a larger set. Prices fluctuate with the market, and buyers pay whatever the sellers ask. Once the deal is done, a piece of lotus leaf is used to wrap the glossy duck, and the enticing aroma is handed over. The transaction is complete.

Nanyang Town is a water town; Nanyang Island is a land of natural bounty.