Hakka Ancient Houses in Guanxi

Hakka Ancient Houses in Guanxi

Guanxi is located in the northeast of Hsinchu County, surrounded by mountains on three sides, with the Fengshan River and its tributaries flowing through. Nestled among green hills and clear waters, it was historically known as Meili Village. The area boasts fresh air and a high number of elderly long-lived residents, earning it the reputation of a “Land of Longevity.”

The region of Guanxi was originally an indigenous settlement. It wasn’t until the Qianlong era of the Qing Dynasty that Hakka immigrants from Guangdong’s Haifeng and Lufeng areas gradually moved in to cultivate the land, rewriting the developmental history of Guanxi. Along the roadsides and in the fields of Guanxi Town stand numerous traditional Hakka old houses, exuding a leisurely, ancient charm. Among them, the ancestral halls of the Zheng and Luo families and the Fan family’s old house in Pinglin are the most representative. The Zheng family ancestral hall, located at No. 56 Mingde Road, was built during the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty. It is a traditional quadrangle courtyard building with a swallowtail roof, and the main hall prominently displays a plaque inscribed with “Dai Cao Yan Pai,” the symbol of the Zheng family. Legend has it that when the ancestors of the Zheng family went to the mainland to take the imperial examinations, the area around their ancestral home was overgrown with “book belt grass.” After one of them succeeded in the exams, the descendants adopted “Dai Cao Yan Pai” as their family designation.

Stepping into the Zheng family ancestral hall, you’ll find an tranquil courtyard scattered with rustic ceramics and stone mills. Except for the slightly disordered side rooms, the main house remains largely intact. With a history of over a hundred years, the Zheng family ancestral hall once faced demolition due to road widening. However, thanks to the persistent efforts of its descendants, it was designated as a third-grade historic site and preserved. This 20-plus-year advocacy process, along with the history of the hall, is documented in a chronological record displayed in the main hall.

Passing through the small alley on the right side of the Zheng family ancestral hall, you’ll arrive at the Luo family ancestral hall at No. 2 Beikoumen. The Luo family ancestral hall preserves more intact and finely crafted wood carvings and Jiazi pottery in its main hall compared to the Zheng family ancestral hall, making it quite a sight to behold. Hakka architecture places great emphasis on feng shui. It is said that the Luo family ancestral hall was built on the central ridge of the Guanxi plateau, considered a geomantically auspicious site, which is believed to bring blessings to its descendants.

The Fan family’s old house is located at No. 49 Pinglin on the outskirts of town. With its swallowtail-style main hall, flanked by four protective wings on the left and three on the right, the structure is grand in scale and can be spotted from afar, standing against the backdrop of lush green mountains. Built in the 30th year of the Daoguang era (1850) by Fan Ruzhou, the 13th-generation descendant of the Fan family, this house has endured over 100 years and has been passed down to the 20th generation, a testament to its long and storied history.

In addition, along County Highway 118 toward Jinshan, you can also visit the Jiangxia Hall and Peng House. On the way to the Fan family’s old house in Pinglin via Bamboo Route 16, you’ll find the Yuzhang Hall — all are worth exploring. Especially noteworthy is the Yuzhang Hall, renowned for its ornate decorations and hailed as the most splendid residence in Hsinchu County, definitely not to be missed.

Transportation guide: Take a Hsinchu Bus from in front of Hsinchu Railway Station headed for Guanxi, or take a bus from Zhudong or Zhongli toward Hsinchu, and get off at Guanxi Station. From there, turn right onto Zhongxing Road, then right again onto Mingde Road to reach the Zheng and Luo family ancestral halls. Alternatively, turn right onto Zhongyi Road and Zhongzheng Road, then right again onto Bamboo Route 16. Cross Nanshan Bridge to reach the Yuzhang Hall. If taking a bus from Guanxi bound for Xinpian via Pinglin, get off at Nanhe Station to reach the Fan family’s old house.

Special reminder: All these ancient houses in Guanxi are still inhabited by descendants. Please keep quiet during your visit.