Zhengguan Terrace

Zhengguan Terrace

Mutianyu Pass, also known as Zhengguan Terrace, features three watchtowers standing side by side—an architectural rarity in the history of the Great Wall. Built in 1404 (the second year of the Yongle reign in the Ming Dynasty), this pass holds significant strategic value, situated between the encampments of nomadic tribes beyond the frontier, the main route to the capital, and a shortcut to the imperial mausoleums. Mutianyu Pass is 40 meters long, 30 meters wide, and 20 meters high. It has two levels, with the lower level interconnected by multiple rooms that were used for storing provisions and housing troops. From the battlements, the views of both the inner and outer sides of the Great Wall are exceptionally expansive.

Mutianyu Great Wall is located within Huairou District and is one of Beijing’s New Sixteen Scenic Spots. It connects to the Juyongguan section of the Great Wall to the west and to Gubeikou to the east. The 2,250-meter section open to visitors is unique in that it features battlements on both sides of the wall. Notably, Zhengguan Terrace boasts three watchtowers aligned in a row. Famous Great Wall landscapes such as Jiankou, Niujiaobian, and Yingfeidaoyang are located at the western end of Mutianyu and represent the finest segments of the entire structure. The mountainous area surrounding Mutianyu Great Wall is covered by lush vegetation, with over 90% forest coverage. The site offers top-tier cable car access in China, as well as attractions such as the China Dream Stone City and the Sibide Slide, integrating Great Wall culture, stone culture, and recreational sports. Former British Prime Minister John Major, former U.S. President Bill Clinton, and several other world leaders have visited Mutianyu.

On the Zhengguan Terrace (also called the Three-Tower Watchtower) of Mutianyu Great Wall, there stands an exquisitely built traditional Chinese tile-roofed house. Why would such a structure be built atop a watchtower meant for defense against enemies? There’s actually a story behind it. Emperor Qin Shi Huang had the Great Wall constructed to defend against invasions by foreign tribes. One day, he dispatched an imperial envoy to inspect the progress of the wall’s construction. When the envoy arrived at Mutianyu, he noticed that every watchtower was built solidly and positioned at highly strategic points. He reported back: “Not only is Mutianyu Great Wall impenetrable by any army, but the landscape here is truly a feast for the eyes.” Qin Shi Huang asked what he meant. The envoy replied, “In front of Mutianyu Great Wall lies a forested mountain, and behind it a body of water (as the village on the back mountain is named Lotus Pond). Amidst the trees and water, Mutianyu Great Wall resembles a mighty dragon winding and surging forward with overwhelming grandeur!” Upon hearing this, Qin Shi Huang was especially pleased and decided to personally visit Mutianyu to see it for himself.

In ancient times, emperors considered themselves dragons, and the Great Wall was often likened to a colossal dragon—this was quite the combination indeed. To demonstrate his supremacy and unmatched greatness, Qin Shi Huang decided he would sleep on the “dragon” (i.e., the Great Wall). When his ministers asked what kind of residence he would require, Qin Shi Huang simply wrote: “Mountain upon mountain, mountain above mountain; beam upon beam, beam over beam.” The ministers were puzzled by the meaning but dared not ask further. They quickly issued an imperial decree to begin constructing a temporary imperial palace. However, once the emperor’s handwritten note—“Mountain upon mountain, mountain above mountain; beam upon beam, beam over beam”—reached the builders at Mutianyu, not only the common soldiers and civilians were baffled, but even the civil and military officials couldn’t make sense of it. With the emperor’s arrival approaching and no one able to interpret the message, the supervising minister resorted to posting a public notice seeking a sage who could decipher the words.

Several days passed, and still no one came forward to solve the riddle. As the deadline drew near, the ministers grew anxious, restless as ants on a hot griddle. One day, while stepping out of his tent and heading up the mountain, the supervising minister happened to spot an elderly woman with white hair stumbling uphill. Curious, he asked, “Old madam, why are you climbing the mountain at your age?” The old woman replied, “I’m looking for some suitable stones on the mountain.” The minister asked, “What will you use the stones for?” She answered, “I’m building a house at home, and I need stones for the gable wall.” Having said that, she continued on her way. But when the minister turned around, the old woman had vanished without a trace.

The next day, the supervising minister went up the mountain again and encountered the same white-haired old woman at the foot of the mountain. He asked, “What brings you up the mountain today?” The old woman replied, “I need a roof beam for my house. I’m going up the ridge to chop down a piece of wood.” After saying that, she walked away. Yet again, when the minister turned around, she had disappeared. Pondering over the old woman’s words, the minister found her two mysterious mountain visits rather odd. He carefully mulled over what she had said both times and suddenly had an epiphany. Excitedly, he exclaimed, “Yes, yes, I’ve been saved—I’ve solved it. This is the style of the house to be built!” He returned to his camp, gathered the soldiers, and explained: “When the text says ‘mountain upon mountain,’ it means building a house atop a mountain peak. Since houses have side gable walls, they’re referred to as ‘mountains,’ hence ‘mountain upon mountain.’ Our watchtowers already have gable walls, which fulfill that part of the riddle. But ‘mountain above mountain’ means adding another layer of gable wall—essentially constructing another house on top. As for ‘beam upon beam, beam over beam,’ it tells us to place beams on the mountain ridge and build a house, then put more beams on top of that house to build yet another.” The soldiers agreed that the supervising minister’s interpretation made perfect sense and praised him profusely. The minister then added, “I didn’t figure it out alone—it was that white-haired old woman who appeared twice and guided me. She must have been an immortal sent specifically to help us solve this mysterious message!”

Later, the workers chose the lowest of the watchtowers at Zhengguan Terrace on Mutianyu Great Wall and built a simple farmhouse-style tile-roofed house with gable walls and wooden beams to serve as the imperial lodging. However, the tower’s roof was too narrow to accommodate a three-room house, so they expanded Zhengguan Terrace by tripling the original single watchtower into three. This enlarged the rooftop significantly, providing ample space for the structure. Legend has it that after the rooftop house on Zhengguan Terrace was completed, Emperor Qin Shi Huang never actually visited—but the tale of the house built atop the terrace has been passed down through the ages.