Rock climbing is a sport derived from mountaineering. Even when climbers choose the easiest routes to scale peaks thousands of meters high, they inevitably encounter cliffs and steep rock faces along the way. Therefore, rock climbing is also a fundamental skill in mountaineering. Since climbing high mountains is a rare opportunity for most people, while scaling cliffs and rock faces is relatively more accessible and offers greater excitement and challenge, rock climbing has rapidly gained global popularity as an independent sport favored by many young people. This sport utilizes humans' innate climbing instincts, employs various safety equipment, and involves ascending cliffs, fissures, sea cliffs, boulders, and artificially constructed rock walls.
II. History
In 1947, the Soviet Union established the first national climbing committee.
In 1948, the Soviet Union hosted its first national climbing championship, which was also the world’s first-ever rock climbing competition. Since then, the sport began to gain popularity across Europe. During the 1960s and 1970s, numerous amateur competitions were held in Europe.
In 1976, the Soviet Union organized the first international climbing competition.
In 1980, France began hosting various forms of climbing competitions.
The international competitions held in Italy in 1985 and 1986 achieved great success due to the participation of elite climbers from many countries.
Although rock climbing attracted many enthusiasts, natural rock walls are usually located in the outskirts, and issues such as transportation and time constraints made it difficult for people to engage in the sport regularly. As a result, most could only climb during holidays.
In 1985, Frenchman François Savigny invented a removable artificial rock wall that mimics natural surfaces. He realized the vision of bringing natural rock walls into urban areas. Because artificial walls are easier to manage under competition rules and offer better visibility for spectators, the International Council for Climbing in 1987 officially recognized competitions on artificial walls as official international events, and the first such competition was held in France that same year. In 1989, the first IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in stages across France, the UK, Spain, Italy, Bulgaria, and the former Soviet Union. Athletes competed at various locations, and their cumulative scores (see the scoring criteria table below) determined the annual rankings, with the highest scorer crowned the World Cup champion. Since then, the World Cup has been held annually.
The first World Climbing Championship was held in 1991.
The first World Youth Climbing Championship took place in 1992.
In 1992, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (then UIAA) applied to the International Olympic Committee to include rock climbing as an official Olympic event.
In 1993, the IOC officially recognized rock climbing as an Olympic sport, and the IFSC has since been working to include it in the 2006 Winter Olympics.
In Asia, the “Asian Climbing Competition Committee” was officially established in Hong Kong in January 1991, marking a new phase for the sport in the region. In September 1992, the first Asian Climbing Championship was held in Seoul, South Korea. In China, in 1987, the Chinese Mountaineering Association sent eight coaches and athletes to Nagano, Japan, to systematically study rock climbing. Upon returning, they organized the first national climbing competition in October of the same year at the natural rock walls of Dashuiyu Reservoir in Huairou, Beijing. In 1990, the first climbing competition on an artificial wall was held at the Huairou National Mountaineering Team Training Base. In 1993, climbing was officially included in the national sports competition program by the State Physical Culture and Sports Commission, leading to annual national championships. In September of the same year, the first national championship took place in Changchun; in October, the first international invitational event was held in Wuhan; and in December, the second Asian Championship was successfully hosted in Changchun.
III. Forms of the Sport
Rock climbing can be classified differently from various perspectives. By organization, it includes competitive climbing (Sport Climbing) and traditional climbing (Free Climbing); by protection methods, it includes lead climbing and top-rope climbing; by location, it includes indoor (artificial) and outdoor (natural) climbing. Competitive climbing features three main disciplines: difficulty, speed, and bouldering. By format, it includes the World Cup and World Championships; adult competitions (for participants over 20) and youth competitions (for those under 19); men’s and women’s categories; as well as international, continental, and national-level competitions. Additionally, rock climbing is a prominent event in various X-Games.
IV. Equipment
Due to the inherent risks of rock climbing, the development and production of safety and convenience equipment have been ongoing since the sport’s inception. Basic climbing gear includes harnesses, ropes, carabiners, chalk bags, slings, climbing shoes, descenders, and ascenders. As all this equipment is critical to climber safety, quality must be carefully considered when purchasing. Generally, products bearing the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) or CE (European Standard) certification marks ensure safety. Currently, most of this equipment is produced in countries where the sport developed early, such as France, the UK, Italy, and the US. In recent years, several specialty stores selling climbing and mountaineering equipment have emerged in China, facilitating the growth of these activities domestically.
V. Characteristics
Thrill and excitement are the most fundamental traits of rock climbing. Its ability to satisfy people’s desire to reconnect with nature, seek adventure, and challenge both the environment and themselves is another key reason for its widespread appeal. With its unique charm and distinct personality, it captivates and inspires many. Engaging in rock climbing teaches resilience when confronting cliffs, fosters tolerance through embracing the mountains, and brings the joy of success upon conquering routes. For athletes, strong physical and mental conditioning, skilled techniques, adaptability, determination, and competition experience are essential. As climbers cling to walls like geckos and soar like eagles, the sport is also highly aesthetic and visually captivating—often referred to as the “ballet on the rock face.”
VI. Current Status
The emergence of artificial walls has transformed rock climbing into both a sport and a recreational activity. Abroad, various climbing clubs are now commonplace. Each year, numerous large and small-scale indoor and outdoor climbing competitions and recreational events are held for adults, youths, men, and women. Climbing training is also incorporated in sports centers, military and police training bases, and even some special forces units. In Europe, America, the former Soviet Union, as well as Asian countries like Japan and South Korea, rock climbing has become quite popular. The highest global standards are found in Europe and America, particularly in France and the US—with France excelling in artificial wall climbing and the US leading in natural wall climbing. In Asia, Japan and South Korea demonstrate relatively high levels, with some athletes reaching world-class standards. Mainland China, Hong Kong, and Taipei are on par with each other, representing mid-tier levels within Asia. In China, after over a decade of development—especially notable progress in the last two years—rock climbing has begun to take shape and is attracting an increasing number of young participants, showing very promising future growth. Since 1997, the country has hosted at least two national or international competitions annually. In August 1998, the highest-level international climbing invitational tournament in China to date was held at Huashan Mountain (one of the Five Great Mountains). In September 1999, China hosted the Eighth Asian Championship for the second time. In northern China, especially in Beijing, awareness of climbing is widespread, and participation has become a fashion among local youth. While climbing is not yet broadly popular nationwide, the extensive media coverage in recent years has led to a surge in interest across southeastern coastal areas, southwestern regions, and the northwest. Nationwide, a variety of both natural and artificial climbing venues have been built or are under construction to support training and recreation.
VII. Top Domestic Rock Climbing Destinations
Currently, China has around ten major artificial climbing facilities. Below are some representative ones (as of the end of 1998):
1. Tongji University Extreme Wave Climbing Gym, Shanghai
Located within Tongji University in Shanghai, it is the country’s first indoor extreme sports venue, offering activities like climbing, skateboarding, cycling, and rollerblading. Opening hours: Monday to Friday, 15:00–21:00 (admission ¥15, untimed); weekends, 13:00–21:00 (admission ¥20, untimed). Membership: quarterly card ¥200, half-year card ¥300.
2. National Mountaineering Team Training Base
Located in Huairou County, Beijing, this is the earliest artificial climbing facility in China. It stands 15 meters high and is made of reinforced concrete. Primarily used for training national mountaineering and rock climbing teams, it is also open to the public. The fee is 700 RMB for two hours (including 300 RMB for venue use, 200 RMB for equipment, and 200 RMB for coaching), making it suitable for groups of ten or more. National-level coaches and top domestic climbers often perform or provide guidance on-site.
3. China University of Geosciences (Beijing)
Located in Beijing. The wall is 15 meters high with a fiberglass surface. It is mainly used for training and teaching the university’s climbing team, but also accepts members of university climbing clubs.
4. Peking University
Located in Beijing. The wall is 15 meters high with a fiberglass surface. It is mainly used for training and teaching the university’s climbing team, but also accepts members of university climbing clubs.
5. Changchun University of Science and Technology
Located in Changchun, Jilin. The climbing frame is 25 meters high, with a 16-meter-high fiberglass climbing surface. It is primarily used for training and teaching the university’s climbing team.
6. Dagang Oilfield
Located in Dagang Oilfield, Tianjin. It is the largest artificial climbing facility in China, standing 15 meters high with a fiberglass surface. It is mainly used for training the Dagang Oilfield climbing team.
7. Yanqi Lake
Located in the Yanqi Lake Scenic Area, Huairou, Beijing, about 10 kilometers from Huairou County. The wall is 15 meters high with a fiberglass surface. It is mainly open to the public, with a fee of 40 RMB per person.
8. Survival Island
Located in Survival Island, Huairou, Beijing, about 3 kilometers from Huairou County. The wall is 15 meters high with a fiberglass surface.
As for natural rock faces, due to limitations in climbing skill, equipment, and other factors, there are currently relatively few people in China who climb natural cliffs. However, China has vast terrain with various styles of cliffs and precipices readily available. As rock climbing becomes more popular, it is believed that many routes will be cleaned and equipped for climbers to enjoy.
Currently, several climbing routes of varying difficulty have been established in Beijing’s suburbs, such as Baiwang Mountain, Huangtuliang in Huairou, and Dishuihu in Yanqing. As these are part of scenic area offerings, they are commercial. The suburban counties of Beijing, including Huairou, Miyun, and Yanqing, have numerous cliffs suitable for climbing. Enthusiasts with the ability and resources can explore and develop their own routes.
Eight. Basic Essentials of Rock Climbing
After decades of development, the sport has reached a very high level and continues to advance. Its techniques—climbing, safety, and competition rules—could each fill an entire book. Here, we only briefly highlight some of the most fundamental points for reference.
1. Conserve Hand Strength Climbing relies on hands and feet, using every available hold on the rock face to overcome the climber’s body weight and equipment. All climbers should have a certain level of arm, finger, fingertip, and core strength. Since arm strength is relatively limited, climbers should rely more on leg power and save hand strength during the ascent.
2. Control Your Center of Gravity Maintaining balance is the most crucial aspect of climbing. Good center of gravity control saves energy, while poor control wastes unnecessary effort and affects the overall climb.
3. Rest Effectively On any climbing route, some sections are easier and others harder. It’s difficult to climb the whole route in one go (unless it’s very easy for you), so to climb higher, you need to rest efficiently—usually by reaching a manageable spot, assuming the least tiring posture, and resting while observing the next section. This is even more important in competitions, where the route is entirely unfamiliar and you only get one attempt.
4. Actively Regulate Your Breathing Beginners often overlook this. Climbing is a continuous process, and you should proactively manage your breathing from the start rather than waiting until you’re exhausted. Another key point: rock climbing is a high-risk sport. With proper equipment quality, skilled belaying, and attentive belayers, the risk is minimal. Conversely, faulty gear or careless belaying can easily lead to accidents. Therefore, safety measures are something every climber—beginner or expert—must always prioritize.
Nine. Development Prospects
With China’s economic growth and increasing demand for material and cultural experiences, more people are embracing travel and adventure sports. Currently, China’s tourism resources are “absolutely abundant but relatively monotonous”—there are many scenic spots, but they tend to be similar, failing to meet the diverse interests and needs of different groups. The future trend lies in diversifying travel and leisure options. As an emerging extreme sport embodying adventure and innovation, rock climbing perfectly combines these elements. It holds immeasurable potential for promoting national fitness and boosting local tourism, leisure, and entertainment industries. With China’s mountainous terrain and rich geographical resources, there are countless cliffs suitable for climbing. Chinese people are generally agile and adept at climbing. With dedication, we can join the world’s leading ranks in rock climbing in the near future.