1. Fixed Protection According to the relative positions of the protector and the person being protected, fixed protection can be categorized into three methods: alternating, above, and below.
(1) Alternating Fixed Protection This method is often used when a group is crossing a steep ice slope. The specific requirement is that only one person in the group moves at a time, while others stop and drive ice screws or ice axes into the slope to create solid anchors. The main rope is then wound around these anchors according to specific requirements. After completing the above actions, the team member adjacent to the mover must also adjust the rope by taking in or letting out slack according to the mover’s pace. Once the mover has covered the distance between rope intervals, they stop and repeat the protector’s actions, allowing the next person to move. This process is repeated alternately.
(2) Above Fixed Protection This is named because the protector is positioned above the person being protected, and it is commonly used in cliff climbing protection. The protector is stationed at the top of the cliff, securely fixing one end of the main rope to the cliff using pitons or natural features. Then, the protector secures their own body to the main rope at the corresponding position to create a self-protection setup, preventing them from being pulled if the climber falls. Finally, the other end of the main rope is thrown to the climber at the base of the cliff. The climber securely attaches the rope end to themselves and, after notifying the protector above, can begin ascending. As the climber moves up, the protector continuously takes in the rope to keep it taut.
(3) Below Fixed Protection When the first person is climbing a cliff and there is no one above, below climbing protection must be used, meaning the protector is positioned below the climber. The setup involves securing one end of the main rope near the protector, while the other end is given to the climber to attach to their body. As the climber moves, they must continually hook the main rope onto newly created anchors in the cliff. The protector gradually lets out the rope as the climber ascends. If the climber slips and falls, the pulling force on the protector comes from above, posing no threat to the protector. Therefore, in most cases, a self-protection setup is not necessary for the protector below.
2. Movement Protection
Movement protection refers to an emergency protection technique that does not require a designated protector in advance but relies on protection equipment to respond to danger during movement. The simplest method is to securely connect the bodies of 2–5 participants with the main rope to form a group. While moving as a group, if someone slips or falls, the others must swiftly and skillfully use the protection gear to respond—that is, immediately inserting their ice axe into the snow, ice, rocks, or crevices with the most convenient posture and fastest motion to secure themselves and thereby stop the fall of the person slipping.