When your climbing progress hits a plateau, try evaluating yourself based on these four elements to identify your weaknesses and overcome them one by one. Believing you’ll make rapid improvement is not just wishful thinking.
"Training" refers to correcting your weaknesses, making the most of your strengths, and improving your climbing ability in the most efficient way possible.
Therefore, whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, you need to develop these four elements in a balanced manner:
One: Strength
1. Power (within 10 moves): Maximum muscle strength + contact strength
2. Power-Endurance (15 moves)
3. Endurance (20 moves or more): Maximum muscle strength + lactic acid metabolism
Two: Style
1. Flexibility
2. Coordination: Efficient climbing
3. Technique: Principle of positive triangle balance + staying close to the wall
Three: Mind
1. Physiological Control: Sleep, diet, environmental adaptation, warm-up
2. Psychological Control: Arousal Level — confidence & caution
Four: Intelligence
1. Memory: Speed of remembering holds
2. Judgment: Identifying cruxes
3. Reaction: Solving cruxes
4. Composure: When unable to solve them