Changxi Village

Changxi Village

There are fewer and fewer well-preserved ancient villages in China that have remained in their original ecological state for a thousand years. Among them, Changxi Village is like a rare, old, and unique book from Wuyuan County in Jiangxi Province, filled mostly with classic ancient poetry. The erosion of time has left some pages tattered, but its untouched natural beauty and the rich, tea-like sense of history are truly astounding.

A refreshing clarity sweeps away restlessness, truly immersing you in tranquility.

Changxi Village is 53 kilometers from the county seat of Wuyuan. Our group of 18 people—originally, I had planned to take the bus with just the driver to Changxi—but everyone insisted I join them on the mountain path, saying the scenery along the way was beautiful. So, I went along with the group. According to online descriptions, we took the mountain path from Yian to Changxi. Though called a mountain path, most of it is an ancient post road paved with bluestone slabs. (Later, our host in the village told us this ancient post road had been the main thoroughfare connecting Changxi Village to the outside world since ancient times.) The journey was tough at times, but the breathtaking views made every step worthwhile. Along the way, whenever we spotted a stunning vista or an ancient tree, we couldn’t help but shout and cheer in excitement. It was unanimously agreed—this place was incredibly beautiful.

After nearly two hours of walking, we arrived at the entrance of Changxi Village. Even before reaching the village, we could see this secluded mountain hamlet nestled among the hills from afar—it was truly gorgeous.

The beautiful Changxi Village is embraced by towering mountains and deep valleys. A gently flowing stream runs through the village, stretching 37 kilometers in length, known as the Changxi River. The village takes its name from this river. A long stone path, paved with bluestone slabs, leads through the village all the way to its entrance. The faintly gleaming stones silently witness the endless changes of heaven, earth, and humanity. The picturesque Changxi Village—with its millennia-old, uniquely natural beauty and deeply profound historical atmosphere—will leave you in awe... If you visit Wuyuan, don’t miss the chance to go to Changxi Village. Experiencing such awe is truly rare.

At the entrance of the village, you’ll see a river flowing from the distance, with a large stone bridge quietly lying across the water. The bridge surface is clean, the well-trodden bluestone slabs giving you a refreshing feeling, while green vines grow out from the crevices, hanging down from the stone walls or into the air, lending the bridge a uniquely ancient and beautiful charm. This Shibaoshi Bridge, built by the Dai clan during the Qing Dynasty’s Qianlong era, is over 230 years old. Beneath the bridge, ducks play in the clear water, leisurely returning the weight of a thousand years to the ordinary.

Though the bridge has withstood the battering of floods, it remains intact. No one in the village knows how the six massive bluestone slabs, each weighing 20 to 30 tons, were placed there in an age without lifting machinery. They say it was with the help of Lü Dongbin—one of the Eight Immortals—who was said to have lived in the village at the time—that the bridge was built. I smiled at the story, perhaps the legend is true.

The surrounding green mountains are painted in hues of red, yellow, and green. The village homes are tucked away within the forests, where history is densely condensed in this beautiful place. Weathered grayish-blue ancient houses are everywhere, each with a history of over a hundred years. In the distance, layers of green mountains appear thick as ink wash paintings or light as wisps of cloud.

At the center of the village stands a “Shegong Pavilion,” built in the late Ming Dynasty and now dilapidated. According to elderly villagers, in the 1970s, the village had several ancestral halls, memorial archways, temples, and even an opera stage—all unfortunately demolished later during the Cultural Revolution. Many ancient stone carvings and wooden sculptures were also destroyed around that time, a loss that still brings sighs of regret. This place was once a refuge from war. Historical records show that in 992 AD, during the Song Dynasty’s Chunhua era, the founding ancestor of Changxi Village, Dai Kuangde, relocated his family here. For over a thousand years, the village has been predominantly inhabited by the Dai clan, which has now reached its 43rd generation. In such a remote mountainous area, a large clan village with over 2,300 residents is truly a rare sight, perhaps unmatched nationwide.

Perhaps after living too long in the noise and clamor of the world, one yearns for a tranquil place, craving a fresh and elegant serenity—even just the gentle sway of willow branches in the breeze or the ripples on a calm lake. As long as there’s the peaceful joy of “picking chrysanthemums beneath the eastern hedge, gazing leisurely at the southern mountain,” one can feel contentment and tranquility, reflect, gain insight, and listen to the voice of one’s own soul, finding a sense of belonging. Upon arriving in Changxi Village, I felt an instant sense of coming home. Wasn’t this the utopia I had long dreamed of?

It was already evening when I arranged to take a walk with Xue’er through the village. The soft moonlight cast our shadows into the ancient night. The night in Changxi Village is deep and peaceful. The Changxi River flows quietly in front of the village, accompanied by a wooden bridge nearby. Small shops along the road still had villagers chatting—perhaps sharing ancient tales of the past. A light mist lingered around us as we gazed at the distant lights flickering through window lattices. Walking on the thousand-year-old bluestone slabs, imagining the idyllic scene of small bridges, flowing water, and quaint homes, brought a serene state of mind.

That night, I slept within the lattice of window frames, resting my head on a wisp of gentle starlight, letting the heartbeat of the ancient village roll by my ears and flow through my heart, gradually drifting into dreams. Awakening with the morning light, industrious villagers were already busy washing vegetables, cooking, and doing laundry by the river. Strolling through the quaint and elegant ancient village, I admired the large brick walls, expansive white plaster surfaces accented with undulating white waistbands, and intricately decorated doors, windows, and lattices, creating a vibrant and refreshing contrast. The upturned horse-head walls around the houses, adorned with colorful paintings or brick carvings, along with various decorative windows, gave each alley a unique streetscape. Standing on the ancient stone bridge, I fully immersed myself in the poetic imagery of small bridges, flowing water, and quaint homes, enjoying the tranquility and harmony of the ancient village—far removed from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Historical records from the village mention eight scenic spots in ancient times, praised in poetry: “Slanted stone paths through mountain rocks, no jade tablets heard, yet cinnabar veins abound. Dazzling under morning sun, misty in evening glow—who tasked dragons and tigers to guard? This place is home to immortals.” Sadly, some of these eight sights have been lost to time. Reflecting on the fleeting years and vanishing traces of the past, only empty emotions remain, guarding timeless hopes and showcasing the charm of the ancient village. Through the shifting tides of history, enduring a thousand years of wind and rain, Changxi Village tells the legendary tale of an ancient millennium-old village… Watching as ancient villages across China vanish in the tide of modernization, this village here still seems drunk on its thousand-year dream. A gentle farewell: Changxi Village, may you endure—may you thrive for another thousand years.

[Postscript] Changxi Village is an ancient settlement with a thousand-year history. Due to its extremely remote location, even locals in Wuyuan often struggle to pinpoint its exact whereabouts. Calling it a utopia is no exaggeration. Most of the village homes are late Qing Dynasty architecture, with grand horse-head walls set against blue skies, green mountains, small bridges, flowing water, and dark gray tiles—painting a serene picture of harmony between man and nature, embodying the classic features of Huizhou-style architecture.

Suggested Duration

2–3 hours

Transportation

To drive to Changxi, exit the expressway at the Fuchun Town exit on the Jingwu-Huang Expressway, then head north past Fuchun Town and turn onto the county road leading to Qinghua Town. Soon, you’ll notice a sign for Changxi on the left side of the road—just follow it. From the entrance to the village, there are 12 kilometers of rather rugged mountain roads with many sharp turns. Drive carefully, honk as needed, and normal travel time is about 20 minutes to reach Changxi Village.

Ticket Price

Free

Opening Hours

All day

Location

Changxi Village: Introduction to the Changxi Village Committee

The Changxi Village Committee, named after the long river within the village, is located to the north of the town government, 16 kilometers from the town. It borders Yian Village to the south and adjoins Fuliang County to the north. To the east, it neighbors Cheng and Dai Villages in the Dazhangshan Township, while to the west lies Shagutang Village in Lintang. It is a remote borderland village, with 1,555 acres of arable land and 75,000 acres of forest, abundant in natural resources such as organic tea and tea oil. Before the founding of the People’s Republic, the area belonged to the Fourth Bao of Youting Township. In 1949, it came under the jurisdiction of Fuchun District, in 1958 it was reassigned to Changjiang Sub-farm, and in 1969 it returned to Fuchun Commune… More details about Changxi Village ++

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