Dongshan Carved Flower Tower

Dongshan Carved Flower Tower

Dongshan Carved Flower Tower is located in Dongshan Town on East Taihu Lake in Suzhou. It represents the pinnacle of architectural carving from Xiangshan in Wuxian County (now part of Suzhou’s Wuzhong District). The wood carvings were crafted by Zhou Yunlong, a master woodcarver from Xiangshan, making it a rare physical artifact for studying the traditions, regional styles, and techniques of modern Chinese folk carving art.

According to *Scenic Spots of Wuzhong*, the Carved Flower Tower was constructed in 1922. Over 250 craftsmen worked day and night for three years, using 3,741 taels of gold. Originally a private residence, the entire building—beams, rafters, pillars, and eaves—is adorned with intricate brick, stone, wood carvings, and cast iron decorations. The brick and wood reliefs are exceptionally rich, making it a unique example among modern buildings in the Jiangnan region. The Carved Flower Tower is a masterpiece of Xiangshan architectural carving from Wuxian County (now Wuzhong District, Suzhou), known for its grand imperial-style constructions. Craftsmen from Xiangshan, often referred to as the "Xiangshan School" in the Jiangnan area, were renowned for their skills. The wood carvings draw inspiration from *Romance of the Three Kingdoms*, *Twenty-Four Filial Exemplars*, *Journey to the West*, and traditional symbolic motifs. The tower is situated within the Taihu Lake Scenic Area in Wuzhong, Suzhou, and is hailed as the "No. 1 Tower in Jiangnan" for its exquisite carvings and ingenious structure. It is also known as Chunzai Tower, derived from the Qing Dynasty poet Yu Yue’s line, "Even when flowers fall, spring remains." The Dongshan Carved Flower Tower was built as a luxurious mansion by brothers Jin Xizhi and Jin Zhizhi, who made their fortune trading cotton yarn in Shanghai, as a tribute to their mother. Designed by the renowned Xiangshan craftsman Chen Guifang, it employed over 250 workers, cost 170,000 silver dollars, and took three years to complete starting in 1922. The tower faces east and covers two acres. It is enclosed by a 20-meter-high black fireproof wall, flanked by Huizhou-style horse-head walls, giving it the appearance of a mysterious castle from afar. Before even entering the gate, visitors encounter subtle lessons. The ground features a colorful stone-paved "flower street," including a large vase with three spears and a musical instrument sheng, symbolizing "promotion in three ranks." Opposite the gate stands a zigzag screen wall with the brick-carved characters "Hongxi" (great joy), implying good fortune upon leaving home. The bronze handles on the black doors, shaped like chrysanthemum petals, ruyi (good luck charms), and six ancient coins, signify "wealth upon reaching out." Beyond lies the stunning brick-carved gatehouse. In Chinese culture, the entrance is paramount, and this gatehouse is as vital as the owner’s face. The front gate’s brick carvings are divided into three tiers: the central panel bears four large characters, "Tianxi Chunjia" (Heaven bestows boundless blessings), symbolizing divine favor. The side panels depict scenes from *Romance of the Three Kingdoms*—the reunion and reconciliation in the ancient city—representing loyalty, filial piety, benevolence, and righteousness. The upper tier features patterns of lingzhi mushrooms, peonies, chrysanthemums, orchids, Buddha’s hands, and auspicious clouds. The lower tier showcases the "Four Gentlemen": plum, orchid, bamboo, and chrysanthemum, all symbolizing good fortune. Upon entering, the rear of the gatehouse reveals even more intricate carvings than the front. Corresponding to "Tianxi Chunjia," the central panel reads "Yuxiu Jue De" (Cultivate virtue diligently), inscribed by Qing Dynasty calligrapher Yin Lixun, signifying moral cultivation. The side panels illustrate the stories of Emperor Yao abdicating to Shun and King Wen seeking wise advisors, symbolizing virtue and wisdom. The upper tier depicts the Queen Mother’s Peach Banquet and the Eight Immortals celebrating longevity, representing "longevity." The next section features ten deer, symbolizing both "perfection" and "official rank." The lower tier portrays the Tang Dynasty general Guo Ziyi’s birthday celebration, attended by his seven sons and eight sons-in-law, embodying "prosperity through offspring." At the roof ridge sits a treasure basin, and above the door lintel is a double happiness symbol, collectively representing the five blessings: "prosperity, rank, longevity, happiness, and wealth." This single brick gatehouse alone cost 3,500 silver dollars. Legend says Jin Xizhi was shocked by the quote, exclaiming, "This is outrageous!" But the expenses had only just begun. Endless silver dollars flowed to create beauty upon beauty.

After admiring the brick gatehouse, turn around to face the front hall of the Carved Flower Tower. Before entering, observe the doors and windows, carved with scenes from the *Twenty-Four Filial Exemplars* (e.g., "Huaigu Fengmu" carrying oranges for one’s mother, "Hexicaiyin" entertaining parents with playful antics) and motivational tales (e.g., "Nangying Yedu" studying by firefly light, "Daotu Mochu" grinding an iron rod into a needle). The threshold is embedded with bat-shaped peepholes, called "stepping on blessings." As you step into the hall—the main room of the tower, known as the Phoenix Hall—you’ll notice 172 carved phoenixes (86 pairs). Locally, "86" sounds like "hundred joys," symbolizing a century of happiness. The four pillars are topped with carvings of official hat wings, signifying "returning officials," hence the name "Official Hat Hall." The beams feature boxwood carvings depicting 48 scenes from *Romance of the Three Kingdoms*, such as the Peach Garden Oath, the Battle of the Three Heroes against Lu Bu, and Liu Bei’s three visits to Zhuge Liang. These vividly portray the heroic grandeur and commanding presence of the warriors. The corridor is adorned with 20 flower baskets, each carved with seasonal blooms: spring orchids, autumn chrysanthemums, summer lotuses, and winter plums.

The second floor houses the living room, study, and bedrooms. The central plaque reads "Chunzai Tower," the original name meaning "spring always dwells in a sunlit house." Behind it lies a hidden passage once used to store the Jin family’s most precious belongings. During three pirate raids on Taihu Lake, the hidden tunnel remained undiscovered. Aside from exquisitely crafted rosewood furniture, the second floor features vibrant blue-and-white longevity basins painted on the beams and imported Western stained glass in the young master’s study window.

After exploring the second floor, you might think you’ve seen it all and start descending—only to find a narrow staircase leading to the third floor. This is a unique architectural feature: the second floor is bright and open, while the third is concealed. Set back by two rafters and shielded by gable walls and the fireproof wall, the third floor is invisible from outside or the courtyard. It served as a refuge and treasure vault during times of war and banditry. A fenced shaft on the third floor allowed items to be passed between floors. When the cover is in place, no trace is visible from below.

Of course, the Carved Flower Tower also offers spaces for leisure. Descending from the third floor, a small balcony leads to an outdoor gazebo inscribed with the poem: "The green hills reluctantly reveal their true form; the blue waters intentionally hide their serene beauty." From here, the panorama of Dongshan unfolds. North of the tower lies a small garden with a bridge, lotus pond, pavilions, and a rare 300-year-old "child lotus" tree—its tiny red flowers resembling children’s faces. Another of the same age exists in Yunnan.

As you reluctantly leave the Carved Flower Tower, marveling at its "every corner carved, every carving exquisite" craftsmanship, you can’t help but lament the wear from too many footsteps. Beauty must be protected. Why not limit visitors or require shoe covers? We hope it doesn’t suffer the fate of the Yingxian Wooden Pagoda, becoming a crumbling ruin, but instead preserves its beauty for generations to come.

Incidentally, since 1979, the Carved Flower Tower has hosted over 300,000 foreign guests and compatriots from 91 countries and regions, along with numerous Party and state leaders, including Shen Junru, Chen Yun, Liu Bocheng, Zhu De, Fei Xiaotong, [names redacted], He Long, Rong Yiren, Chen Shutong, Xu Shiyou, [names redacted], Luo Ruiqing, [names redacted], Xiao Jingguang, [names redacted], Ye Fei, [names redacted], Hua Guofeng, Li Peng, Jiang Zemin, Zhu Rongji, and more. Many photos also show celebrities visiting the site.

Nan Guangming Village, Dongshan, Suzhou

Admission: 60 yuan.

Further Reading:

· Three Masterpieces of Suzhou’s Carved Towers