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Huangniu Gorge

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The section from downtown Guilin to Huangniu Gorge can be considered the first part of the Li River. Here, towering peaks rise on both banks, with towns, villages, and farmlands scattered across the landscape in a diverse panorama—a perfect spot to admire distant mountains, nearby waters, and local life, forming the opening scene of this scenic masterpiece. Huangniu Gorge is located downstream of Guilin’s Mapo Mountain Wharf. It is a narrow canyon, where…

Huangniu Gorge

The section from downtown Guilin to Huangniu Gorge can be considered the first part of the Li River. Here, towering peaks rise on both banks, with towns, villages, and farmlands scattered across the landscape in a diverse panorama—a perfect spot to admire distant mountains, nearby waters, and local life, forming the opening scene of this scenic masterpiece.

Huangniu Gorge is located downstream of Guilin’s Mapo Mountain Wharf. It is a narrow canyon, surrounded by many peaks resembling the head of a yellow ox—hence the name Huangniu Gorge. These peaks look as if they were split in half by lightning, so they are also called Leipi Mountain (Thunder-Split Mountain). Yet, viewed from another angle, these lightning-split peaks resemble bats about to take flight, earning them the nickname Bat Mountain. From here onward, the riverbanks are lined with continuous rocky mountains and soaring peaks. Of course, some peaks resemble horses, lions, tigers, or even embroidered balls. The river here widens, with lotus-shaped clusters of peaks stretching for miles, creating a majestic and rugged landscape.

The origin of the name “Huangniu” (Yellow Ox) is tied to the mythological tale of Yu the Great taming the floods. Legend says that the Jade Emperor sent Yu to Earth to control the deluge and dispatched celestial beings to assist him. As Yu led people to chisel through what is now Huangniu Gorge, a deity transformed into a divine ox to help. One dawn, a woman bringing food to the laborers suddenly saw a massive, majestic yellow ox glowing with radiance, rearing up and angrily ramming the mountain with its horns. The mountain instantly collapsed with a thunderous roar. The woman froze in shock and screamed. Her cry startled the divine ox, which leaped off the cliff, leaving its image forever imprinted on the rock. This tale reflects humanity’s beautiful imagination of conquering nature, with the ox symbolizing the great creative power of people reshaping the land.

The Li River splits into two streams at Huangniu Gorge, flowing left and right, dividing the midstream sandbars into three small islets. In ancient times, the river surged directly against the opposite cliffs, with waves crashing like those in the Three Gorges of the Yangtze. Xu Xiake, the famed Ming Dynasty traveler, cruised the Li River during the Chongzhen era. He described the scenery of Huangniu Gorge as comparable to the Wu Gorge of the Yangtze, even more spectacular than Mount Lu or Red Cliff. With vivid prose, he wrote: “Stone peaks rise in ranks, blocking the southern sky, their upper ridges rivaling the Wu Gorge in grandeur; their lower cliffs jut out, surpassing Kuanglu in might. Thus, they straddle the river, while the eastward current gnaws at the northern flow, its furious waves crashing against cliffs, layered mists reflecting upside down—places like Red Cliff and Caiji lose their splendor in comparison.”

Later, the Huangniu Gorge channel was dredged and reconstructed multiple times, diverting the main current to the left side of the river—the current route taken by passenger boats. Here, the peaks are graceful, the river wide, and the three islets appear to float on the water. A folk ballad vividly and succinctly captures the scenery of Huangniu Gorge: “Peaks stand opposite three islets, which float upon the river. Boats pass to one side, while waters flow to both.”

Huangniu Gorge—the First Gorge of the Li River. Looking back, jagged peaks and bizarre rocks loom; ahead, surging waves crash against stones, thunderous rapids beat against the shore, a cool breeze brings relief, and mist shrouds the water. Here, ruggedness and beauty coexist, noise and tranquility blend, shimmering waters dance, and lush greenery abounds.

Huangniu Rock stands on the western bank of the Li River, south of Mapo Mountain, facing Biyai across the river, about 30 kilometers from Guilin. The gorge features many peculiar rocks, such as Lotus, Lion-Tiger, Bat, and herds of Yellow Oxen, hence its name. The clear waters of the Li River make a sharp 90-degree turn here, splitting into two streams that pound against three islets before rushing southward. A local folk rhyme goes: “Nine oxen face three islets, river water flows in twin streams; five horses block the river’s path, two lions roll the embroidered ball.”

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