Donghua Temple

Donghua Temple

Donghua Temple is a cultural tourism attraction.

Donghua Temple, located on Donghua Mountain in Wufeng Town, Wan’an County, Jiangxi Province, can be reached by traveling from the east gate of Wan’an County through Longxi and Fukoukou to Jiaoyuan Reservoir. From the reservoir dam, a roughly 5-kilometer unpaved mountain road winds uphill to this famous peak—Donghua Mountain—where an ancient temple known as Donghua Temple stands.

To talk about Donghua Temple, one must first introduce Donghua Mountain. Located southwest of Wufeng Town and Jiantou Town in Wan’an County, above Longwangtan in Wufeng Town, it lies about 20 kilometers from the county seat and rises 562.2 meters above sea level, covering an area of over 30 square kilometers. Though not particularly high or expansive, it boasts a long history and is steeped in myth. According to the *Wan’an County Annals*: “Taoism was introduced to Wan’an during the Three Kingdoms period by Ge Xianweng from Danyang, who brought his disciples and practiced alchemy on Xianfang Ridge. Later, his son Ge Hong also took an interest in Taoist practices and wandered to Xianfang Ridge. Today, remnants of the alchemy furnace and pool still exist. It is said that in ancient times, a celestial lantern would appear; now, when the time is harmonious and purple halls glow around the shrine, it signals the descent of deities. Later, a temple was established here and named Yuhua Mountain. To the south of the mountain lies a Thunder Altar, which is said to grant prayers when invoked.” Ge Hong (284–364) was a Taoist theorist, metaphysician, and alchemist of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, and his son Ge Xuan was also skilled in immortality cultivation techniques. They rode horses up to Donghua Mountain to practice alchemy, leaving behind unusual sights such as horse hoof prints, alchemy pools, incense candle caves, and alchemy stoves. Near the alchemy pool, there is also a stone boat, an Eight Immortals table, and eight stone stools, said to belong to the Eight Immortals. One day, the demon king of Jiaoyuan Cave caused havoc and stole elixirs, but was shot dead by a hunter with a shotgun. The little demons made a stone coffin to bury the demon king. Suddenly, a lightning strike split the coffin in two, and the demon king turned into a turtle. To this day, Donghua Mountain still has a stone coffin split in two by lightning and a remarkably lifelike turtle-shaped stone.

Such a “mystical” place caught the attention of disciples of the Linji School of Zen, who introduced Buddhism and founded Donghua Temple. The Linji School is one of the five major schools of Chinese Chan (Zen) Buddhism, belonging to the Southern School’s Nanyue lineage. It was founded by the Tang Dynasty monk Yixuan, who resided at Linji Monastery by the Foutu River in Raozhou—hence the name Linji School. It has a history of over 1,100 years. Later, under the disciples of Northern Song Dynasty’s Chuyuan (986–1039), it split into the Yangqi and Huanglong sects, which also have a history of over 900 years. According to the *Wan’an County Annals*, Donghua Temple was “founded at the end of the Yuan Dynasty,” making it at least 600 years old. It flourished especially during the 20th year of the Qianlong reign in the Qing Dynasty (1755), when the number of monks peaked at 99. Today, Donghua Mountain is home to the Linji Hall and the Donghua Ancient Pagoda. The pagoda houses tombstones of eminent monks such as Yunyan, Wuai, Yinxiu, and Xianzhi, along with an engraved poem: “Wandering the clouds unstained by dust, yet shadows linger in the western village. Asked where I go, seek me where the deep clouds hide.”

Beside the Donghua Ancient Pagoda are the Mahavira Hall, Ksitigarbha Hall, Zhenjun Hall, Guanyin Hall, Scripture Listening Hall, Dharma Hearing Hall, and Dining Hall. The halls house statues of Amitabha Buddha, Shakyamuni Buddha, Medicine Buddha, as well as Ksitigarbha, Manjushri, and Samantabhadra Bodhisattvas. The Eighteen Arhats on either side are vividly rendered with distinct expressions. The walls also feature paintings of Sangharama and Skanda. Couplets inside and outside the halls read:

With the bodhisattva’s compassion, wisdom comes to those who seek it; with the devotees’ piety, blessings come to those who ask.

The Buddha shines upon the myriad worlds from the Western Paradise; the Dharma flows eastward to save countless beings.

The compassionate vessel of the East pleads for the Buddha to remain and turn the Dharma wheel to save all; the holy presence on Huashan wishes monks to dwell in the true Dharma and attain sagehood.

Standing in the temple and looking out, one can take in the vast expanse of mountains and valleys. To the east lies the misty Jiaoyuan Reservoir, where fishing boats shuttle back and forth, and the shimmering lake reflects the surrounding landscape. To the south are verdant pines, blooming flowers, and bamboo groves, with a serene 400-square-meter Fairy Pool that gleams like a mirror, its waters crystal clear. To the west, the entire county town unfolds before your eyes, with the meandering Gan River cutting through the land. To the north are steep cliffs, undulating peaks, and peculiar rocks scattered in striking formations. In the distance lie boundless, rolling mountains. Especially enchanting are the ethereal clouds and rosy hues on sunny days, the hazy mountain vistas in the rain, the vibrant blooms of spring, and the enchanting snowy scenery of winter—each more breathtaking than the last. The ancient poet Hu Shu once praised it: “Standing tall amid the clouds, the sky its canopy; the hazy sunrise paints the distant horizon red.”

Due to its long history, dramatic terrain, and stunning scenery, Donghua Temple often draws crowds of visitors, especially during temple fairs. After being officially approved as a religious site by the People’s Government of Wan’an County on December 1, 1995, this serene and transcendent sacred land has attracted even more monks and tourists from far and wide.

Note: The above article is adapted from the 343800 Wan’an Forum, with slight updates.

I made a special trip up Donghua Mountain on Saturday to revisit Donghua Temple. The mountaintop is small, and the temple sits on a tiny flat area surrounded by dense bamboo and trees, limiting the scope for photography. Add to that my aging Sony P71, which is past its prime—it’s really not suited for wide-angle landscape shots. How could these few amateurish photos ever satisfy the intense homesickness of a wanderer abroad?

Wufeng Town: Located on the western bank of the Gan River, Wufeng Town in Wan’an County currently administers 13 administrative villages and 2 community neighborhood committees. It covers a total area of 227.13 square kilometers, with an urban area of 4.54 square kilometers, and has a total population of 24,048 across 4,828 households. It is recognized as one of Jiangxi Province’s Top 100 Central Towns and a pilot town for expanded powers and strengthened governance in Ji’an City. It is also a key demonstration town for small-town construction in Ji’an, an ecologically beautiful town in Ji’an, and has ranked among Ji’an’s top 30 towns in terms of total fiscal revenue for five consecutive years. It has been awarded multiple honors as a Ji’an Civilized Unit and Jiangxi Province’s Outstanding Township Convenience Service Center. In 2012, it was included in the national... More details about Wufeng Town++