Xiangzhou Baishuizhai

Xiangzhou Baishuizhai

Scenic Area of Xiangzhou Baishuizhai Good mountains are sure to have good water. A stream about three meters wide flows down from the valley, with petals and leaves floating on the surface and ochre-colored stones clearly visible at the bottom. Small fish swim freely beneath the stone slabs, further highlighting the clarity of the water. Who knows how many deep valleys and shallow gullies it has traversed without tiring, "gurgling" its way toward Suichuan, eventually reaching distant rivers and seas. With such an abundant stream, one can only imagine how long the water has traveled and how high its source must be.

Clumps of bamboo dominate the forest, their tips swaying gracefully and full of charm. Bamboo shoots have already broken through the soil and seen the light of day, now in their youthful growth phase. The lower sections of their sheaths have fallen off, revealing tender green skin that instantly stirs feelings of affection. Twisting green vines entwine with trees, bound together for life, inseparable. Strangely enough, fir and pine trees are actually rare guests here. The ground is home to a variety of plants, with lichens everywhere, large patches of indocalamus leaves, and lush growths of "diaozicai" (a local dialect term for a type of herb), which can be seen all around. Break off some diaozicai and take a sniff—it gives off a sweet, fragrant aroma. Along the stream, the ferns vary in height, with two particularly large ones almost resembling red-tailed bamboo shoots—they could well be crowned the "King of Ferns."

The mountain paths grow even steeper, and what you see resembles pristine wilderness. To call what you’re walking on a path is really giving it too much credit. You spot what looks like a stretch of usable trail up ahead, but as you walk, it suddenly vanishes. Relying on faint memories, the guide hacks away at the overgrown bushes with a machete, managing to clear out a narrow footpath. As you round a rock, clouds drift in and begin to dance lightly beneath your feet. The leaves are beaded with water, gleaming brightly. "The mountain scenery plays with the spring light; don’t let the slight overcast make you want to leave. Even in clear weather without rain, once you enter the depths of the clouds, your clothes will get wet"—Zhang Xu’s poem perfectly captures the mood of this place and moment. Getting your clothes a little wet is nothing to worry about. The mountain path is uneven, and even taking a cautious step could lead to a slip; a slight misstep might twist your ankle. And deep down, there’s the lingering fear of becoming a "martyr" of the cliffs. A spring outing filled with such anxiety just isn’t worth it.

Where the path takes a turn, an elegantly arched stone bridge with a weathered charm suddenly spans the view—unbelievable, yet not a dream. The arch bridge is entirely built with stones, their joints smoothly fitted together with exquisite craftsmanship. The bridge may be over a hundred years old, perhaps even two. One can imagine that back in the day, some wealthy benefactor—or perhaps a local figure—lobbied both upstream and downstream, raising funds to complete this monumental project in Xiangzhou’s history. The master craftsman, virtuous and supremely skilled, came all the way from distant Ji’an, traveling by both land and water. It would have taken no less than ten days or half a month to reach this hidden paradise of Baishuizhai. The craftsmen and apprentices didn’t dare slacken in the slightest, constructing the bridge with meticulous care, leaving behind a masterpiece deep in these mountainous hinterlands. Through countless storms and snows, through repeated flash floods, the arch bridge stands firm and unmoved.

Wipe the mud off the stone tablet, and rows of neat traditional Chinese characters come into clear view: Nie Chenggui, 300 wen; Deng Jiabao, 200 wen; Gao Shusheng, 150 wen... Dozens of names are engraved, all recording donations for building roads and bridges. Through the mist of history, it’s as if you can see an elderly, wiry man in the ancient ancestral hall of Baishuizhai, holding a brush and carefully recording the names of those who contributed to the road construction. Then, the craftsmen selected smooth stone slabs and meticulously carved each square character, leaving behind a sacred legacy for future generations to admire.

Xiangzhou is located in the eastern part of Ciping, about 30 kilometers from Ciping Town, covering a total area of more than 3,400 hectares. It is home to hundreds of rare and nearly extinct plant species, numbering in the thousands. These include Pseudotaxus chienii, Podocarpus nagi, Emmenopterys henryi, Tsuga chinensis, Magnolia cylindrica, Coptis chinensis, Dysosma versipellis, Panax japonicus var. major, as well as regionally unique species such as Ternstroemia gymnanthera, Rhododendron rubropilosum, and Kiwifruit of Jinggangshan, all with distinctive Jinggang characteristics. The mountain vegetation is well-preserved, and the straight, tall chestnut trees have just finished blooming—their pungent floral scent stings the nose, almost making you sneeze.

The stone arch bridge, the sedan chair bearers, and the merit stele instantly clear up visitors’ doubts. Baishuizhai is a village that has always been picturesque, a village once ravaged by war, and a village that has declined through a century of change.

Address: Xiangzhou Scenic Area, Jinggangshan