K2 (Qogir Peak)

Qogir Peak

"Qogir" means "magnificent and towering" in the Tajik language. With an elevation of 8,611 meters, Qogir Peak is the main peak of the Karakoram Range and the world’s second-highest mountain, also known internationally as K2.

Qogir Peak is located at 76.5° east longitude and 35.9° north latitude, situated in the central section of the Karakoram Mountains. The side belonging to China lies within Yecheng County, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.

The Karakoram Range stretches for thousands of kilometers in a northwest-southeast direction, with elevations generally exceeding 6,000 meters. The range features a dense cluster of high peaks, including four world-renowned 8,000-meter-plus summits closely aligned here, along with Qogir Peak: Broad Peak to the east of Qogir, at 8,051 meters; Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) at 8,068 meters; and Gasherbrum II at 8,035 meters. Nearly one-third of the world’s 14 peaks over 8,000 meters are found in this area. There are also more than 20 peaks above 7,000 meters, such as Skil Brum at 7,545 meters on the northern side, Spantik at 7,385 meters on the western side, and Crown Peak at 7,295 meters further down. As a result, this region has become the world’s second most prominent mountaineering hub. Qogir Peak has six main ridges, with the northwest-southeast ridge being the main crest line of the Karakoram Range and also serving as the border between China and Pakistan. Other ridges include the north ridge, west ridge, and northwest ridge. The summit is pyramid-shaped, with sheer ice walls and precipitous terrain. The steep slopes are covered with avalanche gullies. The top of the peak features a gently rising ice slope from north to south, covering a large area. The northern side is as sheer as if cut by knives, with an average slope of over 45 degrees. The vertical elevation gain from the base camp on the north side to the summit reaches 4,700 meters, making it the mountain over 8,000 meters with the greatest elevation difference in the world. The glacier on the northern side is called the Qogir Glacier, characterized by complex and changeable terrain. The glacier surface is fragmented, with crisscrossing crevasses both visible and hidden. The western valley of the glacier features steep rock walls, with frequent rockfalls, ice avalanches, and snowslides. Extending 44 kilometers on both sides of Qogir Peak is the 44-kilometer-long Yinsugaiti Glacier.

The Qogir Peak region not only has treacherous terrain but also extremely harsh weather. From May to September, the southwest monsoon brings warm, moist air that turns into rain, marking the rainy season in the area. From mid-September to mid-April of the following year, strong westerly winds bring a severe winter. The minimum temperature at the summit can reach -50°C, with maximum wind speeds exceeding 5 meters per second—making it a zero-condition climate for mountaineering. Between May and September, melting snow and rainfall often cause rapid rises in river water levels, making access to the mountains difficult. Therefore, the optimal time for climbing activities is in early May to early June when river levels are rising but not yet severe; July to September sees slightly higher temperatures at the summit and longer periods of good weather, making it a favorable time for reaching the summit.

The approach route to Qogir Peak is currently the longest among all open peaks in China. Starting from Yecheng, a key city in southern Xinjiang, you take a bus along the Xinjiang-Tibet Highway to Mazar, then drive 25 kilometers along a simple road to Mazar Dara. From there, it takes six days of trekking covering 90 kilometers to reach the Qogir Peak base camp (Yinhongtan at an elevation of 3,924 meters). This stretch involves crossing the 4,800-meter-high Aghil Pass to enter the Kelain Valley, and it is essential to avoid the swollen Kelain River during July and August when it is impassable for both humans and animals.

In 1902, the first British expedition to climb Qogir Peak ended in failure. For over 50 years afterward, multiple human attempts were also unsuccessful. It was not until July 31, 1954, that the Italian climbing team of Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli, approaching from the Pakistani side along the east ridge, achieved the first successful ascent, taking nearly 100 days.

In 1976 and 1977, the China Mountaineering Association organized two expeditions to reconnoiter the northern side of Qogir Peak. On August 4, 1982, the Japanese Alpine Club's Qogir Peak expedition team made the first ascent from the north side along the north ridge. Later, other teams such as those from Italy, the Yokohama Alpine Club of Japan, and the United States also successfully conquered Qogir Peak from the Chinese side.