Chejiang Dong Village

Chejiang Dong Village

Introduction: Also known as the “Thousand-Household Dong Village,” Chejiang Dong Village is the most densely populated Dong ethnic settlement in China.

From Rongjiang County town, cross the Rongjiang Bridge and head north to reach the vast Chejiang Plain. The Zhaihao River, a tributary of the Duliu River, flows past Bijia Mountain and connects the Dong villages along the river across five nearby settlements. The area is named “Sanbao” (Three Treasures) due to three large rocks in the river. The Sanbao Dong villages stretch for about 15 kilometers, making it difficult to explore them all unless you have plenty of time. About 5 kilometers from Rongjiang County town, you’ll see a wooden gate inscribed with “The World’s No.1 Dong Village,” marking the entrance to the well-known Ancient Banyan Group Scenic Area. This area comprises three villages — Zhanglu, Zaitou, and Motang — with over 800 households and a population of more than 3,000.

After entering the village and walking along the Duliu River, you’ll find a large cluster of ancient banyan trees. These banyans were planted during the Qianlong era of the Qing Dynasty, over 300 years ago. There are currently 38 ancient banyans, whose roots intertwine and branches connect, forming a green canopy. It is said there used to be even more, but most were cut down after the liberation. Now all the ancient banyans are under protection.

Among the banyan trees lies a cobblestone-paved street locally called Flower Street. This street is about 0.5 kilometers long, with cobblestones arranged into the patterns of the Chinese zodiac. At the end of the road, you’ll also find a sculpture of a man and a woman — the man is Zhulang and the woman is Niangmei. In the 1950s, China produced a film called “Qin Niangmei,” said to be a Chinese version of “Romeo and Juliet,” and this is the hometown of Qin Niangmei.

As the most concentrated Dong ethnic area, Chejiang is especially known for its many drum towers. One of the most notable is the “Chezhai Drum Tower,” built in the third year of the Guangxu reign during the Qing Dynasty (1877), making it over 120 years old. More recently built towers are even grander examples of Dong drum tower architecture. In addition to drum towers, another common sight in the Sanbao Dong villages is the Shrine of the Goddess — called “Samas Temple” by the Dong people (Samas means “Great Grandmother”). These temples are dedicated to the worship of the goddess Samas, and nearly every village has one. The entire Sanbao Dong region has a total of nine such temples. Inside each temple is a small brick-and-tile house, with a pile of stones in the center, atop which rests a half-open paper umbrella, surrounded by 12 or 14 small wooden stakes or stone piles. Paper-cuts adorn the umbrella and the stakes. These wooden stakes and stone piles mark the sacred spots of Samas. Outside each temple grows an evergreen tree, symbolizing the goddess’s health and longevity. Samas Temples are usually locked; if you wish to see inside, you’ll need to ask a local to open the door for you — and offer around 2 yuan.

The densest cluster of ancient banyans stretches along about 1 kilometer of riverbank from Chejiang Yintang Village to Zhanglu Village, featuring 54 banyan trees. Naturally formed, they make up a rare and spectacular banyan grove in the world. It’s recommended that you stop by a small shop to buy some sweet rice wine — it’s quite tasty. Share it with locals around you, and they might warmly invite you to rest or share a simple meal in their home. Don’t drink too much of the sweet rice wine though — it has quite a kick.

Walking along the river embankment, you’ll reach the Chejiang River Concrete Bridge. Nearby, you’ll find a banyan tree growing around a stone stele. This used to be a ferry crossing, and during the Republican era, villagers erected a “Merit Stele” here to commemorate those who donated to build the ferry. At the time the stele was erected, a banyan tree stood nearby. Over time, the banyan gradually grew around and enveloped the stele within its trunk. The Duliu River flows gently past Chejiang Dong Village, its broad waters clear enough to see women washing vegetables, clothes, and hair by the shore, while men carry bundles of rice across a wooden bridge. On the other side of the village lies a busy road with constant traffic.

Accommodation

Next to the statue of Zhulang and Niangmei by the riverside, there are several guesthouses where you can stay. The first floor of Dong-style wooden houses is not for living; you’ll stay on the second floor, where corridors offer views of the clear river and gracefully shaped ancient banyans — a very pleasant experience. Prices are 10–15 yuan per bed. Rooms are small, typically with just one bed, so this price for a single room is quite a good deal. Transportation: A tricycle ride from Rongjiang County town costs just 1 yuan. Alternatively, any minibus heading toward Congjiang will pass through here for the same 1 yuan fare. However, a single-person tricycle may charge 5 yuan, though you can bargain it down to 3 yuan.

Kaili City, Guizhou Province