Tianjin Five Great Avenues Historic Architecture Complex
The Tianjin Five Great Avenues Historic Architecture Complex is a National Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit.
The “Five Great Avenues” in downtown Tianjin is not only well-known locally, but even many outsiders are familiar with this destination, even if they don’t know its name. In fact, the term “Five Great Avenues” has only existed for about three or four decades. It is not a historical name, yet it carries a profound sense of history. This area, once on the southern edge of the former British concession, was only named “Five Great Avenues” in the 1960s by urban management authorities to make it easier to refer to this highly distinctive district of Western-style residential buildings, and the name has since become widely known.
The Five Great Avenues, from north to south in parallel, are respectively Chengdu Road, Chongqing Road, Dali Road, Munan Road, and Machang Road. There is also a shorter Changde Road in between, making it effectively five and a half roads. Most streets in Tianjin often leave outsiders confused about directions. The Five Great Avenues, which run in a northeast-southwest direction, have numerous twists and turns, and their surroundings include two six-way intersections and several five-way intersections. Lacking the hustle and bustle of Heping Road or Binjiang Road, and without the dense clusters of high-rise buildings found near Xiaobailou nearby, the Five Great Avenues—where buildings over four stories are rare—was originally just a residential area.
The Five Great Avenues are called “great” not because of tall buildings or wide roads, but because of their immense fame. Mao Zedong once mentioned in an article, “Foreign-style buildings in Tianjin, siheyuan courtyards in Beijing.” Due to historical reasons, Tianjin, a key coastal city, once had nine foreign concessions (British, Japanese, French, German, Italian, Russian, Austrian, Belgian, and American)—a phenomenon unique in China. Later, the American concession was “voluntarily” merged into the British concession through private arrangements. Over thirty years starting from the early 20th century, this led to the proliferation of Western-style and Sino-Western hybrid architecture in Tianjin. Experts divide Tianjin’s foreign-style buildings into three parts: the first being the financial and commercial district represented by Jiefang North Road, lined with buildings featuring massive Corinthian, Ionic, and Doric columns; the second being the commercial district, represented by landmarks in the central area such as Quanye Market, Huizhong Hotel, Jiaotong Hotel, and Bohai Building; and the third being the residential area, most prominent and concentrated in the Five Great Avenues. Covering just 1.3 square kilometers, the Five Great Avenues area boasts over 2,000 garden-style residences built in the early 20th century, showcasing diverse architectural styles from different countries. These include Renaissance, Neoclassical, Eclectic, Gothic, Romanesque, Baroque, and courtyard-style buildings, among others. According to statistics, among the 300 most representative historic buildings, there are 89 British-style, 41 Italian-style, 6 French-style, 4 German-style, and 3 Spanish-style buildings. “Architecture is frozen music,” “architecture is a philosophical poem”—this rare convergence of architectural styles, even seldom seen abroad, forms what is known as an “Exhibition of World Architecture.”
However, there are even more significant reasons why the Five Great Avenues attract attention. Due to Tianjin’s unique geographical environment and the presence of foreign concessions, it has historically been a gathering place for wealthy merchants, retired or ousted warlords and politicians, foreigners seeking fortune in China, as well as renowned industrialists and notable figures from all walks of life. Just within the Five Great Avenues, there are over 50 former residences of historical figures such as Xu Shichang, Cao Kun, Wellington Koo, Zaizhen, Yan Huiqing, Sun Dianying, Zhang Ximing, Zhang Zizhong, Pan Fu, Lu Zhonglin, Zhang Shaozeng, Gong Xinzhan, Zhu Qiqian, Cai Chengxun, Yan Xiu, and Zhang Boling. Tianjin also has numerous former residences of other famous individuals such as Yuan Shikai, Li Yuanhong, Feng Guozhang, Duan Qirui, Zhang Xun, Sun Chuanfang, Puyi, and Li Shutong (Hongyi Master), but these are mostly scattered across other districts. The fame of the Five Great Avenues comes from the high concentration of these prestigious residences. Some notable figures even owned two or three residences in Tianjin, or had multiple buildings within a single residence. In the past, members of the Qing imperial family and former loyalists, along with wealthy elites and celebrities, left either leisurely or busy footprints here. Over a hundred former presidents, premiers, ministers, military governors, and provincial chairmen, who once wielded great power, retreated here after stepping down. Some sought to make comebacks, while others faded into obscurity. Records indicate that in his later years, Cao Kun firmly refused to work for the invading Japanese, and aside from associating with old friends, he often spent his summer days sitting under trees chatting with rickshaw pullers and street vendors. Such a convergence of historical figures is rare in modern Chinese history. Countless stories and historical dramas unfolded within the walls of the Five Great Avenues—some known to the public, others lost with their former owners.
Perhaps due to the desire of retired figures to remain low-profile and successful industrialists’ reluctance to flaunt their wealth, the houses in the Five Great Avenues tend to be relatively low-rise. Trees in the courtyards shield the building windows, reflecting the residents’ pursuit of comfort, privacy, and a non-showy lifestyle. Today, most of the houses in the Five Great Avenues feature railings or walls that showcase their original character. But a decade or two ago, before renovations, most had tall solid walls, usually undecorated, with simple gates concealing the splendid interiors. Before the 1960s, there were very few pedestrians or vehicles here even during the day. Only in recent twenty years, during peak traffic hours, have the southernmost Machang Road, the northernmost Chengdu Road, and the few “roads” intersecting the Five Great Avenues longitudinally (generally “avenues” run east-west, while “roads” run north-south) experienced congested traffic, though the central area still sees far fewer people and vehicles compared to other neighborhoods.
It wasn’t until the late Qing Dynasty that the first road in the Five Great Avenues area—a low-lying wasteland at the time—appeared: Machang Road. The winding Machang Road was first laid out in 1903, exactly one hundred years ago. After the Second Opium War, capitalist powers acted with impunity within the concessions. In 1863, British invaders held the first horse racing event (which later became a regular racecourse). Dekebin (1842–1913), a German-born British national and long-time chairman of the British Concession Board, was appointed by the Qing government as the Tianjin Customs Tax Commissioner. He also managed modern postal services in Tianjin, Beijing, Yantai, Niuzhuang (Yingkou), and Shanghai, and issued China’s first set of postage stamps—the “Large Dragon Stamps.” He maintained close ties with Li Hongzhang, then Viceroy of Zhili and Governor-General of Zhili. In 1886, with Li’s support, Dekebin obtained the right to build a new racetrack on 200 acres of land south of Tonglou (expanded to 800 acres in 1925 along with the “Country Club”). It is often said, “The racetrack came before Racetrack Road.” To provide access to the racetrack, in 1903, the British concession authorities built a gravel road between Houde Gate (Xiaoying Gate) and Tonglou, meandering through the lowlands, forming the initial winding outline of Machang Road, which was later paved with asphalt in 1926.
With the completion of Machang Road and subsequent changes in the surrounding area, a large number of European-style buildings gradually appeared along the road, also facilitating development in the areas to the north. By 1929, when the last road was completed, the unique environment of the “Five Great Avenues” had taken shape. Machang Road, stretching over 3,200 meters, is the longest of the Five Great Avenues. To its east lies the Xiaobailou commercial district, home to one of China’s earliest Western restaurants, “Kilsgreen,” and one of the earliest cinemas, “Ping’an,” both located in this prime spot. To the west is the racetrack, connecting dining, entertainment, and leisure in one line. After the liberation, some viewed the old buildings in the Five Great Avenues and surrounding areas as remnants of imperialism and colonialism. As public understanding improved, especially in recent years, most of these historical and cultural sites have been well preserved and developed. If certain outdated “leftist” logic had prevailed, wouldn’t treasures like the Forbidden City and Potala Palace have been regarded as feudal remnants and demolished or discarded? When leaders like Mao Zedong visited Tianjin in the past, they often stayed at Peace Hotel (which housed several notable residences), and in 1951, Mao visited the home of Li Zhuchen on Machang Road for an all-night discussion on national affairs.
Nowadays, during holidays, old-fashioned Western horse carriages often appear on the Five Great Avenues. Sitting in these elegant carriages, both domestic and international tourists can leisurely enjoy the scenery along the way. Sidewalks often see locals and visitors carefully examining the heritage plaques or informational signs of the historic homes, or taking photos. The downside is that visitors generally cannot enter the courtyards or buildings, as they are privately or institutionally occupied, but all are well-maintained, clean, and quiet—this is also an example of combining preservation with utilization. Without human presence, buildings deteriorate faster. Over the decades, the surroundings of the Five Great Avenues have changed significantly, with new commercial, office, and residential buildings constantly emerging. The construction, expansion, and extension of the country’s second subway line built in the early 1970s, along with the upcoming construction of Lines 2, 3, and 9, will make transportation even more convenient. Despite being surrounded by towering new skyscrapers, the Five Great Avenues retain their timeless charm.
People visiting a new place often feel a sense of “a thousand cities with the same face.” With economic development, traditional elements are increasingly discarded, which in urban architecture translates to a loss of individuality. Without individuality, a city also loses its historical and cultural value.
Entering a new era and in conjunction with overall urban development, Tianjin has carried out comprehensive planning and maintenance for the roads and buildings in the Five Great Avenues area. The five avenues are like five beautifully undulating musical staffs, each note a melodious tune. The Five Great Avenues, witnesses to a century of Tianjin’s urban history, will present themselves to the world in even more magnificent splendor.
In May 2013, the Tianjin Five Great Avenues Historic Architecture Complex was listed as part of the seventh group of National Key Cultural Relics Protection Units.
Further Reading:
· Seventh Group of National Key Cultural Relics Protection Units
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