A Step Back

A Step Back

A Step Back is a cultural heritage site protected by Suzhou City.

A Step Back is the former residence of Zhang Yao, a patriotic general of the late Qing Dynasty. Why such a unique name?

"Ah Niu," who found his way back after going astray, resided in Lili

Zhang Yao, whose childhood nickname was Ah Niu, disliked studying and loved doing somersaults with his friends. His parents sent him to the culturally renowned town of Lili to live with his uncle-by-marriage, Kuai Hesun—. Later, having a sudden change of heart and driven to improve himself, Zhang Yao went to Gushi County in Henan. With the help of Kuai Hesun, he joined a local militia, stood out, and swiftly rose through the ranks. Kuai Hesun was very impressed by Zhang Yao’s military talent and arranged for his daughter, Fengxian, to marry him. The two were wed in Lili. Under his wife’s guidance, Zhang Yao gradually became erudite and refined, transforming into a multi-talented individual.

The Continuation of the Lili Annals records: “(Zhang) Yao was skilled in poetry and painting, proficient in the Six Arts, … and authored the Collection from the Tower of River Sounds and Mountain Colors.”

In the fifth year of the Tongzhi era, Zhang Yao built a boat-shaped hall at the end of Xinkuaiban Lane in Lili Town and inscribed a plaque himself with the words “A Step Back,” expressing his desire to retire to his hometown. Every day, he drank wine and composed poetry with relatives and friends, exuding elegance and charm—completely different from the Ah Niu who had left Lili.

However, just as Zhang Yao hoped to settle peacefully in this tranquil Jiangnan town, the late Qing period was fraught with internal and external crises. Fueled by a patriotic heart, Zhang Yao re-entered public service and followed Zuo Zongtang in battles along the frontier.

Full of zeal, Zhang Yao led from the front, supported frontline operations, and handled aftermath tasks efficiently. He made remarkable contributions during the recovery of Xinjiang and the consolidation and development of China’s northwestern borders. Zuo Zongtang praised Zhang Yao as having “far-reaching vision and insight” and being “accomplished in both literary and martial pursuits.” In resisting Russian aggression, Zhang Yao repeatedly achieved military success and eventually became a renowned patriotic general.

Skilled in leading troops and battles, in his later years Zhang Yao also became adept at calligraphy, painting, and poetry. Even more remarkably, he excelled in water conservancy. To manage rivers, he conducted inspections almost daily along the embankments, working tirelessly day and night during critical moments. In the 17th year of the Guangxu era, Zhang Yao overexerted himself supervising riverworks and died from an abscess that developed on his back.

The “A Step Back” site in Lili has silently guarded the legendary life of its master throughout history. When you visit Lili, be sure to tour “A Step Back” to learn about that period of history and about the patriotic general who devoted himself wholeheartedly to his country and people.

Zhang Yao (1832–1891), courtesy name Langzhai, was from Daxing, Zhili (now part of Beijing). He served as Governor of Shandong. In the early years of the Xianfeng era, he was recruited into the forces of Sengge Rinchen for contributing strategies to suppress the Nian Rebellion. Later, he was granted the title Huoqin Batulu by Emperor Xianfeng for defending the city against the Nian rebels. In 1860 (the 10th year of Xianfeng), he was promoted to Prefect and then to Provincial Administration Commissioner. The following year, after devising a strategy to defeat the Nian forces under Chen Daxi and Zhang Fenglin, he was appointed Governor of Henan. Soon after, he was impeached by the censor Liu Yunan for being “illiterate” and demoted to General, though still under Sengge Rinchen’s command. From then on, he devoted himself to study and engraved... More details on Zhang Yao++

Fenhu High-Tech Zone (Lili Town): Lili Town is located 30 kilometers southeast of Wujiang County and is a well-preserved example of a typical Jiangnan water town. The town features one river flanked by two streets, with most buildings along the banks being two-story structures from the Ming and Qing dynasties, their shopfronts lined up continuously. Another distinctive feature of the ancient town is its long revetments, all built with stacked Jieji stone. Even after hundreds of years, they remain neat and solid. Over 300 stone railings are embedded along the revetments, among which the exquisitely crafted elephant-trunk stone railings resemble seals crafted by artisans—small yet full of charm. These railings serve as excellent mooring facilities and are also valuable works of art. Lili was also the hometown of the famous patriotic… More details on Fenhu High-Tech Zone (Lili Town)++