Beigu Mountain

Beigu Mountain

Beigu Mountain is located in Zhenjiang, Jiangsu Province. Due to its location north of the Yangtze River and its steep, secure terrain, it was named "Beigu" (literally "North Solid"). The mountain is about 58 meters high and 200 meters long. With steep cliffs and a formidable landscape, Emperor Wu of the Liang Dynasty during the Southern Dynasties once inscribed the words “the world’s finest scenery” to praise its majestic beauty. The Sweet Dew Temple, majestically perched atop the mountain, was built during the Sweet Dew era of the Eastern Wu period and has many legends and relics related to the Wu Kingdom of the Three Kingdoms era. Visitors here can’t help but follow the story of Liu Bei’s marriage alliance to seek out related historical sites and legends. Beigu Mountain, along with Jinshan and Jiaoshan mountains, forms a strategic triangle, standing as three peaks together. In terms of controlling the Chu region and overlooking the Wu region, Beigu Mountain appears even more imposing and precipitous. During the Ming Dynasty, the regional governor had the front peak and middle peak cut off from each other to defend against Japanese pirates and protect the city.

Beigu Mountain consists of three parts: the front peak, middle peak, and rear peak. The main peak is the rear peak, which offers the most scenic views. The front peak was originally the site of an ancient palace of the Eastern Wu Kingdom and is now the Zhenjiang Martyrs' Cemetery; the middle peak originally had a meteorological tower, which has now been converted into a Chinese painting gallery; the rear peak is the main peak of Beigu Mountain, facing the Yangtze River (Yangzi River) to the north, surrounded by cliffs on three sides, and featuring a perilous terrain. The mountain is covered with trees, and many scenic spots and historical sites are located here. It has long been famous as “the world’s finest scenery.” The rear peak is the main peak of Beigu Mountain, backed by the Yangtze River and lying above the water, with sheer cliffs like those carved from a knife, making it the best spot for scenic beauty. From the top of the mountain, one can look east to Jiaoshan, west to Jinshan, across the river, and clearly see the Pingshan Hall in Yangzhou, truly making one feel that “Jinshan and Jiaoshan are small, while the Yangtze divides Wu and Chu.” In the past, a famous person wrote a satirical poem: “The Yangtze River resembles the waves of an inkstone, lift up Jinshan and Jiaoshan to grind ink, one iron pagoda can serve as a brush, the blue sky is vast enough to write many lines,” praising the magnificent scenery of Beigu Mountain.

Ascending from the southern foot of the middle peak of Beigu Mountain, passing the meteorological observatory, and walking along the mountain ridge northward to Qinghui Pavilion. To the east of the pavilion stands an iron pagoda, which was built by Li Deyu, Duke Wei of the Tang Dynasty, in the first year of the Baoli era (825 AD), hence also known as the Duke Wei Pagoda. Originally a stone pagoda, it was later destroyed. In the first year of the Yuanfeng era of the Northern Song Dynasty (1078 AD), it was rebuilt as a nine-story iron pagoda, square-shaped and octagonal. In the Ming Dynasty, it was modified to seven stories, standing about 13 meters tall. After enduring tsunamis, lightning strikes, and warfare, by 1949 only two layers of the base remained. It has since been restored to four stories, about 8 meters high. The base and the first and second stories are from the Song Dynasty original, while the third and fourth stories are the fifth and sixth stories of the original pagoda, cast during the Ming Dynasty. The existing base and body of the pagoda feature exquisite patterns, with unique and vividly realistic designs.

From Qinghui Pavilion heading north, on the wall of the hillside east of the Sweet Dew Temple, there is an embedded stone slab inscribed with six large characters: “the world’s finest scenery,” said to be written by Emperor Wu of the Liang Dynasty. Opposite the slab, above the arched gate leading to the Sweet Dew Temple, is inscribed the plaque “Pure Land of Southern Xu.” During the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Zhenjiang was renamed Xu Zhou, hence the name “Southern Xu.”

Passing through the arched gate leads to the Sweet Dew Temple at the summit of the northern peak. Legend has it that this is where Liu Bei held his marriage alliance, and the Peking opera “Dragon and Phoenix Bring Auspiciousness” is based on this event. In fact, the ancient Sweet Dew Temple was built during the Liang Dynasty, originally at the foot of the mountain, and was relocated to the mountain top by Li Deyu of the Tang Dynasty. The temple includes structures such as the main hall, Laojun Hall, Guanyin Hall, and Jiangsheng Pavilion, forming the distinctive feature of a “temple atop the mountain.” It is said that during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, it was at its peak, and Emperors Kangxi and Qianlong both built temporary palaces here, leaving behind imperial steles. It is one of China’s ancient and renowned temples. Behind the temple lies the “Fierce Rock,” where Liu Bei and Sun Quan once sat together, shaped like a hornless crouching sheep. West of the temple is a brick-paved slope path, said to be the “Horse Racing Stream” where Sun and Liu raced horses side by side. The Duojing Tower behind the Sweet Dew Temple is the best scenic spot on Beigu Mountain. This two-story tower faces the great river, and its name comes from the Tang Dynasty poet Li Deyu’s line “Duojing (multiple scenes) hang by the window,” making it one of the three famous towers along the ancient Yangtze River, alongside the Yellow Crane Tower and Yueyang Tower. The plaque inscribed with Mi Fu’s calligraphy “The Finest Tower Over the Rivers and Mountains” hangs prominently above the tower. Since the Song and Yuan Dynasties, literati, officials, and nobility have composed poetry and enjoyed wine here. Ouyang Xiu, Su Shi, Mi Fu, Xin Qiji, and Lu You all left behind many famous poems. Climbing to the top of Duojing Tower and leaning on the railing, one can take in the panoramic views of mountains and waters, with all kinds of wondrous scenes coming into view.

To the east of Duojing Tower is Lingyun Pavilion, also known as the River Sacrifice Pavilion. Legend has it that Lady Sun, Sun Shangxiang, once offered a distant sacrifice here upon hearing of Liu Bei’s death before throwing herself into the river. When the patriotic Southern Song poet Xin Qiji climbed this pavilion, he was moved by the sight and composed the famous piece: “Where to gaze upon the divine land? Boundless scenery fills the Beigu Tower. Countless tales of rise and fall through the ages, so long. The endless Yangtze flows on. In youth, commanding thousands in battle gear, holding sway over the southeast without cease. Who in the world could rival the heroes? Cao and Liu. A son should be like Sun Zhongmou.”

Due to the various legends surrounding Liu Bei’s marriage alliance, Beigu Mountain today has become a must-visit hotspot for travelers to Zhenjiang.

Legend says that Emperor Taizu of the Ming Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang, once summoned scholars by the pool. In ancient times, the water flowed through the Sweet Dew Harbor to the river, and the pavilion in the pool was called the Phoenix Pavilion.

To the right of Phoenix Pool lies a massive, flat stone split in two, known as the Sword Testing Stone, also called the Resentment Stone. The stone is in two pieces, the taller one about 1.5 meters high, the shorter one half that height, both with cracks and smooth, flat surfaces. The three characters “Sword Testing Stone” are clearly visible on the rock.

There is also a story behind the Sword Testing Stone: It is said that the marriage alliance between Sun and Liu turned from a pretense into reality. One day, Sun Quan and Liu Bei were touring Phoenix Pool together when Liu Bei noticed a large stone by the pool. He took the sword from an attendant, looked up to the sky, and silently prayed: “If I can successfully return to Jingzhou and become an overlord, let the stone split under my sword; if I die here, let the stone remain unsplit.” As the sword struck, sparks flew, and the stone split apart. Seeing this, Sun Quan asked Liu Bei:

“Why do you resent this stone?” Liu Bei replied hypocritically: “I am nearly fifty years old and have not been able to rid the country of treacherous factions, which fills me with great indignation. Now, blessed by the Empress Dowager to become her son-in-law, it is the fortune of my life. I divined to the heavens—if I can defeat Cao Cao and revive Han, let this stone be split. Now it has come true as I wished.” At this, Sun Quan thought to himself, “Could Liu Bei be deceiving me with these words?” He too drew his sword and said to Liu Bei: “I will also ask the will of heaven. If I can conquer Cao Cao, I will also split this stone.” He silently prayed: “If I can reclaim Jingzhou and prosper the Eastern Wu, let this stone also split in two.” He then swung his sword and split the other stone. Both were secretly pleased, and thus the two Sword Testing Stones were left behind.

In reality, the formation of the Sword Testing Stones comes from geological evolution: approximately 100 million years ago during the Cretaceous period, volcanic eruptions caused magma to spill onto the earth’s surface, forming volcanic rocks. Due to their hard texture and numerous cracks, they eroded over time into their current shapes. These stones were not actually split by any steel swords.

Southeast of the rear peak of Beigu Mountain, next to Qinghui Pavilion, stands a four-story iron pagoda. Also known as the “Duke Wei Pagoda,” it is an important cultural relic of Beigu Mountain. It is one of only six surviving iron pagodas in China and the only one in Jiangsu Province, designated as a provincial-level cultural relic protection unit.

The iron pagoda was initially built in the first year of the Dingli era of the Tang Dynasty (825 AD) by Li Deyu, the governor of Runzhou in the Tang Dynasty, to “pray for the spiritual welfare of Emperor Muzong (Emperor Muzong of Tang).” It has been destroyed and rebuilt multiple times. The current pagoda has four stories, with the first and second stories being Song Dynasty artifacts and the third and fourth stories cast in the Ming Dynasty. The existing base (i.e., the lotus pedestal) and body of the pagoda feature exquisite patterns, such as cloud and water motifs, lotus petals with double sparrows, dragons playing with pearls, and Buddha statues, all exquisitely crafted and vividly realistic. The iron pagoda adds a solemn and magnificent touch to Beigu Mountain, showcasing the exceptional ironworking skills of ancient Chinese laborers.

West of the iron pagoda is the “Moon Gazing and Homesickness” Poetry Stele, inscribed with a poem by Japanese envoy Abe no Nakamaro (Chinese name: Chao Heng). Born in 698 and died in...

Beigu Mountain Abe no Nakamaro Poetry Stele (2 photos) 770, he was intelligent and studious from a young age. In 717, he was selected as a student sent to Tang China, and the following year, he came to China from Osaka under the leadership of the ninth Japanese envoy to Tang, Tajihi no Agatamori. Chao Heng studied at the Tang Imperial College in Chang’an, later passed the imperial examination, and became close friends with famous Tang poets such as Wang Wei and Li Bai. Emperor Taizong of Tang highly valued his talent, appointing him successively to positions such as Secretary of the Imperial Secretariat and Protector-General of Zhennan. In 753, Chao Heng was appointed as an envoy of Tang, setting sail with Master Jianzhen and Japanese envoys to the east. Along the way, the ship anchored by the Yangtze River. On a moonlit night, Chao Heng was filled with thoughts, recalling 36 years away from his hometown, and joyfully composed the famous five-character poem “Gazing at the Moon and Homesickness,” which reads: “Looking eastward to the sky, my soul flies to Nara. On top of Mount Mikasa, I imagine the bright moon shining round.”

Chao Heng had profound knowledge of Chinese studies. His poem “Gazing at the Moon and Homesickness” has been included in the “Complete Tang Poems” and is widely known and sung in Japan. This stele was completed at the end of 1990. The Japanese inscription on the stele was written by Tanaka Touun, president of the Japan Calligraphy Association, the Chinese inscription was penned by Shen Peng, acting chairman of the Chinese Calligraphers Association, and the renowned calligrapher Zhao Puchu inscribed the title of the stele.

Not far west of the “Moon Gazing and Homesickness” stele is a round archway inscribed with the plaque “Pure Land of Southern Xu.” Legend has it that in the late Western Jin Dynasty, amid chaos in the north, the Eastern Jin Dynasty maintained its rule in the south, establishing its capital in Jianye (present-day Nanjing). At that time, many northerners migrated south, prompting the Eastern Jin to establish Xu Zhou, with its administrative center in Jingkou (present-day Zhenjiang). By the time of the Liu Song Dynasty, it was officially named Southern Xu Zhou, and “Southern Xu” has since remained an alias for Zhenjiang.

On the corridor wall nearby, a rectangular stone slab is inscribed with the bold and powerful six characters “the world’s finest scenery,” extraordinary in spirit. Legend has it that during the Three Kingdoms period, when Liu Bei came to the Eastern Wu Kingdom for a marriage alliance, Sun Quan hosted a banquet and then accompanied Liu Bei to admire the river scenery. Liu Bei, seeing Beigu Mountain standing majestically by the river, with the great river flowing endlessly and a vast, imposing atmosphere, couldn’t help but exclaim: “Beigu Mountain is truly the world’s finest scenery!” Later, during the Southern and Northern Dynasties, when Emperor Wu of the Liang Dynasty ascended Beigu Mountain, he was deeply moved by the spectacular scenery and enthusiastically wrote the six characters “the world’s finest scenery,” leaving them on the mountain. Unfortunately, they can no longer be found. By the Southern Song Dynasty, Liang Zhou (Zhenjiang) Prefect and famed calligrapher Wu Ju rewrote these six characters. During the Kangxi era of the Qing Dynasty, they were copied and engraved in stone by Cheng Kangzhuang, deputy prefect of Zhenjiang Prefecture. Since then, Beigu Mountain has rightfully earned the title “the world’s finest scenery.”

At the summit of the northern peak of Beigu Mountain stands the Sweet Dew Temple. The Sweet Dew Temple was built during the Sweet Dew era of the Eastern Wu Dynasty (265–266 AD), hence the name “Sweet Dew Temple.” The temple plaque was personally written by Zhang Fei. The current Sweet Dew Temple on the mountain was built during the Baoli era of the Tang Dynasty by Li Deyu, the governor of Runzhou. To commemorate Zhenjiang’s history as the capital of the Eastern Wu Kingdom and ensure that people would never forget the tripartite division of the Three Kingdoms, he relocated historical sites, legends, and relics of the Liu-Sun alliance and the marriage alliance to the mountain. Since then, Beigu Mountain has become one of China’s famous historical sites. To this day, the traditional Peking opera “Sweet Dew Temple” (also known as “Dragon and Phoenix Bring Auspiciousness”) remains deeply rooted in folk culture. Therefore, every visitor to Zhenjiang makes a point to come here, ascending Beigu Mountain and visiting the Sweet Dew Temple to see the grand hall where Liu Bei married, reflecting on the story of Sun Shangxiang’s wedding—an intriguing experience.

The ancient Sweet Dew Temple was grand in scale, with over 500 monks during the Song Dynasty. The Ming and Qing Dynasties were its peak periods, with over 200 halls, rooms, and monk dwellings. Emperors Kangxi and Qianlong both built temporary palaces here. The Sweet Dew Temple is also one of China’s ancient and renowned temples. Its architectural style differs from those of Jinshan and Jiaoshan, adopting the technique of “using the temple to dominate the mountain,” thus creating a soaring pavilion effect and forming the distinctive feature of “towering over the mountain.”

Passing through the Sweet Dew Temple and heading west, there is a stone-pillared square pavilion called the River Sacrifice Pavilion, also known as the Beigu Pavilion, as well as Lingyun Pavilion, Moyun Pavilion, Linjiang Pavilion, First Pavilion of the Rivers and Mountains, and the First Pavilion of the World.

Lingyun Pavilion and Moyun Pavilion are named for their location at the highest point of Beigu Mountain, touching the blue sky. Since the pavilion is built atop the river-facing cliffs of Beigu Mountain, it is also called the “Linjiang Pavilion.” Legend has it that after the marriage alliance between Sun and Liu during the Three Kingdoms period, Lady Sun followed Liu Bei to Jingzhou but was deceived by Sun Quan and forcibly detained in the east. The Sun-Liu alliance broke down, leading to the Battle of Yiling. After Liu Bei’s defeat, Lady Sun, hearing the false news of Liu Bei’s death in Baidi City, was heartbroken. She climbed this pavilion, set up a memorial altar, and offered sacrifices while gazing westward before throwing herself into the river. Hence, the pavilion is also called the “River Sacrifice Pavilion.” The “First Pavilion of the Rivers and Mountains” is said to have been inscribed by Kang Youwei after he climbed the pavilion one starry night and was moved by the scenery of Beigu Mountain.

This pavilion was built in the late Ming Dynasty during the Chongzhen era. The stone pillars are inscribed with two couplets: “The guest’s heart is purified by flowing water, the chest swells with layered clouds”; “Unaware of leaving the flying birds behind, with hands hanging down one could still fish for giant turtles.” Outside the pavilion is a surrounding wall and corridor path, with stone tables and benches inside. Below the pavilion, the cliffs hang over the river. Climbing the pavilion and looking out, the surrounding water and mountain scenery are all within view, especially enchanting on moonlit nights. The patriotic Southern Song poet Xin Qiji, climbing the Beigu Pavilion, saw the mighty Yangtze River flowing eastward and was inspired to compose timeless masterpieces such as “Nanshangzi: Ascending the Jingkou Beigu Pavilion with Feelings” and “Yongyule: Reminiscing at the Jingkou Beigu Pavilion,” expressing his hopes for the nation’s future while satirizing the incompetence and complacency of the Southern Song rulers who failed to reclaim lost Central Plains territories.

Behind the Sweet Dew Temple is a painted-beam, upturned-eave pavilion called the Duojing Tower. Formerly known as the Beigu Tower, it is also called the Spring and Autumn Tower, the Son-in-Law-Viewing Tower, and the Dressing Tower. It is one of the ancient “Three Famous Towers of the Yangtze River,” alongside the Yueyang Tower by Dongting Lake and the Yellow Crane Tower in Wuhan. It is referred to as the “Son-in-Law-Viewing Tower” and “Dressing Tower” due to the legend of Liu Bei’s marriage alliance in the Eastern Wu Kingdom. It is said that after Liu Bei borrowed Jingzhou from the Eastern Wu Kingdom and showed no intention of returning it, Zhou Yu devised a plan to use a beauty trap, intending to detain Liu Bei as a hostage during his crossing to seize Jingzhou. However, this conspiracy was seen through by the cunning Zhuge Liang, who turned the plan around. He sent General Zhao Zilong to accompany Liu Bei across the river to the Sweet Dew Temple on Beigu Mountain in Zhenjiang for the marriage alliance, providing him with a clever strategy to enlist the help of Elder Qiao in persuading Lady Wu, Sun Quan’s mother, to meet Liu Bei at the Duojing Tower for the son-in-law viewing. Lady Wu was pleased with Liu Bei’s “square face, large ears, arms reaching past his knees,” and his “imperial appearance,” finding him very much to her liking. She readily agreed to marry her daughter Sun Shangxiang to Liu Bei. That day, the princess arranged the bridal chamber on the tower and dressed up, with rows of swords and guards stationed below to protect Liu Bei. Liu Bei was terrified at the sight, and Sun Shangxiang, seeing this, had to order the removal of the weapons. Only then did Liu Bei dare to enter the bridal chamber. Later, people began calling the Duojing Tower the “Son-in-Law Tower” or “Dressing Tower.” Thus, the Sun-Liu marriage alliance turned from a pretense into reality, giving rise to the widely circulated folk tale of “Zhou Lang’s brilliant plan to secure the realm, losing the wife and the soldiers.”

In reality, Liu Bei’s meeting with Sun Shangxiang at the Duojing Tower was added later by people based on the story from “Romance of the Three Kingdoms.” The Duojing Tower was built during the Tang Dynasty, and its name comes from the line “multiple scenes hang by the window” in Li Deyu’s “Linjiang Pavilion.” The Duojing Tower is a two-story structure with corridors extending in all directions, offering views in every direction. Climbing to the top and leaning on the railing, one can take in the diverse and beautiful mountain and water scenery, truly feeling as if flying above the ground. To the east, the surging river flows endlessly, with the verdant Jiaoshan Mountain looming faintly in the vast waves; to the west, countless peaks and ranges blend seamlessly with the blue sky; the nearby Jinshan Mountain, with its striking backdrop, appears even more pristine; and the Wenfeng Pagoda in Yangzhou across the river is faintly visible. When Marshal Chen Yi once climbed the Duojing Tower, he remarked with emotion: “Don’t bother with paintings—the entire Yangtze River is spread out right here!”

Descending the mountain west from the Duojing Tower, there is a stone resembling a crouching sheep, about the same size as a real sheep and lacking horns. On its left abdomen is carved the two characters “Fierce Stone,” also called the “Stone Sheep.” Legend has it that Sun Quan once rode on the back of the Fierce Stone and discussed strategies to defeat Cao Cao with Liu Bei, devising the brilliant plan for the Battle of Red Cliffs. The Fierce Stone we see today was moved in the 16th year of the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty (1890) from the intersection at the southern wasteland of Lulu Lane (now Lüzhu Lane) in Zhenjiang City. It was processed and carved into the shape of a hornless crouching sheep by stonemasons. Below the Fierce Stone on the mountain is a cliffside rock face inscribed with the three red characters “Liuma Jian” (Horse Racing Stream). The Horse Racing Stream is located on the steep cliffs behind the rear peak of Beigu Mountain. Surrounded by sheer cliffs on both sides, with a narrow path in between, the terrain is extremely treacherous. It is also called the “Walking Horse Stream” or “Running Horse Slope.”

It is said that this was the place where Sun Quan and Liu Bei once raced horses to compete in skill and strength. Legend has it that one day, while drinking wine in the Ganlu Temple, Liu Bei and Sun Quan saw the mighty river winds and towering white waves, with a small boat riding the crests as if gliding over flat land. The boatman handled it with ease. Liu Bei couldn’t help but exclaim, “Southerners are good at sailing boats, northerners at riding horses—that’s indeed true.” Hearing this, Sun Quan thought to himself, “Is Liu Bei mocking me for not knowing how to ride?” He then ordered his attendants to bring him a horse. He leapt onto the horse and galloped down the mountain, then spurred it back up the ridge. Turning to Liu Bei, he asked, “So, can southerners really not ride horses?” Liu Bei then took off his outer robe, mounted his horse, and raced down the hill before returning up again. The two stopped their horses on the mountainside, laughed heartily, and brandished their whips. Later generations named this spot “Horse-Sliding Ravine,” “Horse-Riding Ravine,” or “Horse-Stopping Slope.” On the cliff face here are the two characters “勒马” (“Rein in the Horse”) carved during the Ming Dynasty.

Transportation: Take bus no. 4 directly from the train station.

Suggested duration of visit

1–2 hours

Transportation

Ganlu Temple Station, accessible via bus routes 4, 8, 116, 130, 133, 135, D3, K112, K208

Admission

Low season (December–February, mid-March–mid-June): 30 RMB; peak season (March–mid-March, mid-June–November): 40 RMB (Children under 1.2 m, seniors over 70, active-duty military, and people with disabilities are admitted free with valid ID; seniors aged 60–69, undergraduate students and below, and children between 1.2–1.5 m tall receive a 50% discount)

Opening hours

7:30-17:30

Location

No. 3, Dongwu Road, Jingkou District, Zhenjiang City, Jiangsu Province