Shanhaiguan

Shanhaiguan

Shanhaiguan is a national AAAAA-level tourist attraction, a key cultural relic protection unit of China, and a national forest park.

On the shores of the vast Bohai Sea and at the foot of the undulating Yanshan Mountains stands a magnificent gate tower nestled against the mountains and facing the sea, presenting a spectacular view. This is the historic Shanhaiguan Pass, an important strategic gateway in the eastern section of the Great Wall. It is known as the “First Pass Under Heaven” because “it is the unparalleled lock between the two capitals and the foremost pass of the Great Wall spanning thousands of miles.”

Shanhaiguan is an important component of the Great Wall. The existing Shanhaiguan fortress, nearby sections of the Great Wall, fortresses, and watchtowers are all structures from the Ming Dynasty. Historical records indicate that in the 14th year of the Hongwu reign of the Ming Dynasty (1381 AD), General Xu Da, Duke of Wei, chose this location “embraced by mountains and facing the sea, serving as the critical throat between Liaodong and Jizhou,” and thus established the pass and stationed troops here. The name “Shanhaiguan” comes from its location between the mountains and the sea.

Shanhaiguan is located in the northeastern part of Qinhuangdao City, bordered by the Yanshan Mountains to the north and the Bohai Sea to the east. It guards the strategic passage between Northeast and North China, making its geographical position extremely vital. In peacetime, it serves as a key route for economic and cultural exchanges between the interior and border areas, while in wartime, it becomes a fiercely contested battleground. Ancient people once described its strategic importance with the line, “It is the unparalleled lock between the two capitals and the foremost pass of the Great Wall spanning thousands of miles.” Comparing it to a “lock” between Yanjing (Beijing) and Shengjing (Shenyang) is entirely fitting. The reason Shanhaiguan is also called the “First Pass Under Heaven” is to emphasize its treacherous terrain, exquisitely constructed defenses, and vital strategic role. In its heyday, the Shanhaiguan fortress had a perimeter of over eight li, surrounded by a moat five zhang wide and 2.5 zhang deep, with walls standing 4.1 zhang high. Each of the four sides of the fortress had a gate, with the eastern gate known as “Zhendong,” or the “First Pass Under Heaven” gate. To the east and west of the fortress were auxiliary walls (luocheng), and to the north and south were wing walls (yicheng) for stationing troops, creating a mutually reinforcing formation. Several miles east of the fortress, additional structures such as the Weiyuan Fortress, beacon towers, and enemy towers were built. All these constructions, like stars surrounding the moon, encircle and protect the main Shanhaiguan fortress, forming a complete defensive system that served as the critical stronghold at the eastern end of the Great Wall. They embody the remarkable architectural artistry and military ingenuity of the ancient Chinese laboring people.

Hanging above the eastern gate tower of Shanhaiguan is the plaque inscribed with the words “First Pass Under Heaven.” Each of the five characters is 1.6 meters tall, rendered with bold, forceful strokes and a majestic, vigorous style. The single horizontal stroke of the character “一” (one) shows no sign of weakness, and despite the complexity of the traditional character “關” (pass), it does not appear cluttered. The artistic style of the plaque harmonizes perfectly with the rugged and precipitous architecture of the mountain pass, making the entire gate tower appear even more majestic and splendid. It was inscribed by Xiao Xian, a local scholar who achieved the jinshi degree during the Ming Dynasty. The original plaque is now housed inside the arrow tower, while the one displayed outside is a 1920 tracing reproduction.

Climbing to the “First Pass Under Heaven” gate tower, you can look south to the Bohai Sea, where white waves surge skyward and misty waters stretch endlessly; to the north lies the Great Wall, winding and undulating with overwhelming grandeur. Along the continuous ramparts, enemy towers rise every half or full li, their arrow slits resembling wide-open eyes watching over the land and fields of the motherland. From the tower, gazing down at the surrounding watchtowers and beacon platforms, and observing the glint of weapons, armor, and the Green Dragon Crescent Blade, you are immediately struck by the towering fortress and formidable defenses, as if you have been transported onto an ancient battlefield. Faced with this magnificent scene, one cannot help but think of the immense sacrifices made by the ancient laboring people in constructing such a colossal project.

The Great Wall extends southward from the fortress, sharply turning at Nanhai Kou to run parallel to the coastline before reaching the Bohai Sea just 4 kilometers from Shanhaiguan. The seaward end of the Great Wall is commonly known as “Laolongtou” (Old Dragon’s Head). If the Great Wall is likened to a giant dragon, then its entry into the sea resembles the dragon bowing its head to play in the water—“Laolongtou” is precisely the dragon’s head. This section of the Great Wall, stretching into the Bohai Sea, was built along the shore and lies atop the Songling highlands, a spur of the Yanshan Mountains. It is 674 meters long, with the wall naturally curving along the coastline. “Laolongtou” has long been honored as the “Soul of China.” Majestically facing the wind and waves each day, it forms a unique coastal Great Wall landscape, considered one of the most extraordinary features of the Great Wall.

As the new century dawned in 2001, Shanhaiguan was designated as a National Historic and Cultural City. The Shanhaiguan tourist area (including the First Pass Under Heaven, Laolongtou, Meng Jiangnu Temple, and Jiaoshan Mountain) was listed as a national top-tier “AAAA”-level tourist attraction.

Further Reading:

· Second Batch of Hebei Provincial Cultural Relic Protection Units

· First Batch of National Key Cultural Relic Protection Units