Erling Pagoda and the "Evening Glow at Erling"

Erling Pagoda and the "Evening Glow at Erling"

Erling Pagoda and the "Evening Glow at Erling" is a cultural tourism attraction.

　As dusk falls and the waters of Dongqian Lake lie still, the setting sun bathes Erling Pagoda in golden light, casting rays that shimmer across its surface. The pagoda’s reflection shimmers in the lake, merging the surrounding scenery into a breathtaking view. This is the celebrated "Evening Glow at Erling," one of the Ten Scenic Spots of Qianhu Lake.

Erling Pagoda is situated on Erling Mountain on the eastern shore of Dongqian Lake. The mountain extends from the southeast, rising abruptly amidst the picturesque Dongqian Lake. Stretching about a li in length, it is bordered by mountains on one side and surrounded by water on three, resembling a dragon diving into the lake. It forms a narrow peninsula that guards the exit of Xiashui Harbor. Originally called "Snake Mountain," Erling Mountain faces Butterfly Mountain to the north — one crouching, one stretching — separated by the water, and looks toward Shrimp Mountain to the south, connected only by a thin strip of water.

A local legend says that in ancient times, when thick fog and gloom descended, the two mountains would seem to merge. A giant python from Snake Mountain would roam between them, spewing mist and harming fishermen. A wise monk, observing the signs, realized a demon python was causing trouble, so he built a pagoda on the mountain’s “neck” to subdue it. Ever since, the python has lain dormant. A Yuan dynasty writer, Dai Liang, praised: “The scenic beauty of East Lake is too numerous to count, but Erling is the most extraordinary.” Its wonder lies in how the mountain embraces the water and the water cradles the mountain, creating a continuous, mesmerizing loop.

Erling Pagoda is a square stone structure perched atop two slightly concave ridges of Erling Mountain. According to the *Tongzhi of Yin County*, in the early Song Dynasty, Master Shao built a seven-story stone pagoda here. Current measurements show an inscription on the eastern wall of the base that reads “Zhenghe Year,” indicating it was built during the Northern Song’s Zhenghe era. The pagoda is seven stories high with a square base, standing 9 meters tall. Its hollow core is enclosed by solid walls, giving it a rugged, solemn, and ancient appearance. The base is 1.2 meters high and bears plaques inscribed with “Extend Blessings and Longevity” and “Protect the Nation and Its People.” Each successive level decreases in size. The four walls feature niches with relief carvings of Buddha statues, flanked by guardian warrior figures. The Buddha images are dignified, while the guardians are fierce. Each story is adorned with arched eaves whose corners curl upward, with small holes drilled for wind bells. The pagoda top is formed by conical stone slabs, creating a four-sided, pointed pyramid. When the county government funded a major restoration in 1987, a new square base about 1 meter high was added beneath the pagoda. It includes steps on both sides, surrounded by railings and equipped with stone benches. From the base, the panoramic view of lake and mountain is stunning. This square stone pagoda from the Northern Song Dynasty is extremely rare in Zhejiang Province. In 1997, it was designated as a Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit by the provincial government.

Erling Mountain is not only named for its spiritual mountain and water but also renowned for its pagoda, temple, mountain lodge, and notable historical figures.

At the foot of Erling Mountain once stood the Erling Mountain Lodge. During the Xining era of the Song Dynasty (1068–1077), Chen He, a native of Yin County, built the “Erling Monastery” here to pursue his studies. Chen He, styled Xiushi, ranked first in the national examinations while studying at the Imperial College in the Yuanyou era. In 1100, he passed the imperial examination and served as a judicial officer in Yanzhou, where he upheld justice and exonerated many wrongfully condemned prisoners. He was later promoted to professorships in Weizhou and Wuzhou, attracting many students. The court summoned him to serve as Academician and later promoted him to Censor-in-Chief, then Left Remonstrator. Chen He fearlessly criticized powerful figures such as Tong Guan. Once, when he remonstrated with Emperor Huizong (Zhao Ji) about Tong Guan’s misdeeds, the emperor grew annoyed, turned to leave, and tore his robe. Unhappy, the emperor said, “The Remonstrator has torn my robe!” Chen He replied solemnly, “If Your Majesty does not mind the torn robe, why should I mind losing my head?” Touched, the emperor responded, “If you are so resolute, what do I have to worry about?” Despite his loyalty, Emperor Huizong was a weak ruler, and Chen He was eventually slandered as “arrogant” by Tong Guan’s faction and demoted. Witnessing the corruption of the court and the decline of the nation, Chen He retired from official life, returned to his hometown, and built the “Erling Mountain Lodge” by Dongqian Lake. There, he devoted himself to scholarship, teaching, and mentoring many students. Throughout his life, Chen He was known for his integrity and unyielding character, earning widespread respect. Later, he and his two sons were buried beside the “Erling Mountain Lodge.” A Qing dynasty poet, Xin Jian, praised:

They say the mountain and water are divine, coiled like a resting dragon. Alone remains a green tomb for loyal bones, forever bathed in sunset light on stone screens.

The Erling Mountain Lodge was later expanded into Erling Temple. Chen He invited Zen Master Zhihe, formerly of Xuedou Temple, to serve as abbot. Legend says Zhihe was an eccentric monk who chanted day and meditated night, keeping two tamed tigers as companions. When the master passed away, the tigers died in mourning and were buried with him at the foot of Erling Mountain. In the Yuan Dynasty, Master Gongdu became abbot and was accompanied by monkeys. Master Gongdu was well-versed in Buddhist and Confucian teachings, skilled in poetry and calligraphy, and spent his days chanting scriptures and composing poems. He wrote: “To seek the mountain and water spirits, a hut stands high above the white clouds. The scenery lies just beyond the railing, shared half by fishermen and half by monks.” His transcendent spirit shines through.

In the early Ming Dynasty, Erling Temple came under the jurisdiction of Tiantong Temple. The eminent monk Tianyuan Jun restored the ruined temple and built a mountain lodge, filling it with ancient scriptures and setting up desks and writing tools. Scholars and monks gathered, filling the air day and night with sutra chants and poetry. The scenery of Erling blended Confucianism and Buddhism, adding to the mountain’s serenity. The literatus Dai Liang wrote in his *Record of Erling Mountain Lodge*: “Locals admiring Tianyuan’s learning came to visit; people from all directions flocked here upon hearing his name.” In the Kangxi era of the Qing Dynasty, the temple was destroyed, but Monk Zhuchuang revived it and compiled the *Tiantong Temple Annals*, retiring here. The Qing scholar Chen Xijia wrote in *The Restoration of Erling*: “When an ancient temple is restored, the tombs within can escape becoming dens for foxes, preserving their legacy alongside this mountain. Can’t we thank the Chen family—Master Wenjie and his sons—for this?” Thus, the spiritual essence of mountain, water, pagoda, temple, lodge, and land is enriched by the presence of remarkable individuals. A Qing poet, Xin Hanqing, wrote of Erling Mountain:

To the east of the lake, the mountain coils like a dragon, where mountain and water spirits reside. Amid waves, a lone gull startles at the pagoda’s shadow; in the woods, two tigers attend the meditation gate.

A mound buries the bones of a loyal minister; four peaks frame a mica screen. All day I search these ancient traces, my straw shoes treading where grass stays green.

Today, the ancient sites of Erling have been revitalized, surpassing their former glory. The towering pagoda, the low-lying temple, the faint outline of the mountain lodge, and the discernible ancient tombs all contribute to the scene. Under clear skies and bright sun, pleasure boats glide across the water, enhancing the ethereal charm of the "Evening Glow at Erling."