Houwu Village

Houwu Village

When people with the same surname meet, they often greet each other by saying, “We must be related—we’re from the same family five hundred years ago.” So when I learned that there’s a Houwu Village in Yongkang, Zhejiang, where the Wu clan has thrived on that land for over 780 years, I made up my mind to go there and “reconnect with my roots.”

Located at the southern edge of Yongkang, Houwu Village borders Jinyun County. Nearly all of the village’s 800-plus households share the Wu surname. According to the *Genealogy of the Wu Clan of Pingshan Qingtang*, the founding ancestor of Houwu Village’s Wu clan was Zhaoqing, also known as Mingzhi, styled Pingshan. Born in 1145 during the Song Dynasty’s Shaoxing era (Yi Chou year), he passed away in the Chunyou era (Gui ? year). He was the tenth-generation descendant of Quanzhi, a high-ranking official of Xianju who held the title of Silver-Green Guanglu Grand Master. A man of noble character and transcendental aspirations, Zhaoqing felt detached from worldly pursuits. While his peers—uncles, brothers, nephews—all climbed the ranks of officialdom, earning collective pride, he remained indifferent. Accompanying his uncle to Yongkang to serve as a local official, he was captivated by the scenic beauty of Wuping Mountain in Yongkang’s southern region. There, he chose to live a reclusive life, building a home and settling down, thus becoming the founding patriarch of Yongkang’s Wu clan.

Perhaps inheriting their ancestor’s disdain for worldly ambition, strolling through Houwu Village—with its quintessential central Zhejiang residential charm—you’ll find nearly a hundred ancestral halls, elegant residences, and ancient houses scattered like hidden pearls along its lanes. Only by drawing close, brushing off the dust, and savoring them slowly will you discover the village’s layout: facing south with its back to the Jinxi Stream and fronted by Pingshan Mountain, it is meticulously planned. Houses are interconnected, corridors linking doorways, forming a crisscross grid extending symmetrically in all directions. Hundreds of rooms form a cohesive whole—neighbors can visit even in rain or snow without umbrellas. The towering firewall between homes serves as natural protection against fire and theft. The architecture’s rustic elegance, grandeur, refinement, and practicality leave you marveling at the diligence, pragmatism, and wisdom of the ancestors. Among the sites to explore: Shuyu Hall, Yanting Hall, Juqing Hall, Weiji Hall, Cuncheng Hall, Orchid Residence, Pingshan Retreat, Wu Ting Ancestral Hall, Sima Mansion, Chengyi Ancestral Hall, Ancient Cycad, Ivy-Wooden Gate, Liquan Well, Osmanthus Residence, Zhennan Temple, Ancient Camphor Tree, and the Thousand-Worker Bed. After seeing them all, you’ll realize the village’s orientation—north to south—is thoughtfully aligned with the landscape.

Houwu Village has history. Its ancestral halls are especially noteworthy. The Wu Clan Ancestral Hall, built in 1547 during the Ming Dynasty’s Jiajing era, spans over 1,140 square meters and stands right at the village entrance. The structure consists of three sections (front, middle, and rear) flanked by two wings: the front hall has three bays, the middle five, and the rear seven, with over 20 side rooms on the east and west. Intricate carvings of flowers, birds, fish, insects, mythical beasts, and human figures adorn the beams, brackets, corbels, and dougong (bracket arms), all vividly crafted. Pillar capitals, purlins, and rafters feature intact gold-and-pearl paintings. At the hall’s center hangs its nameplate, *Xulun Hall* (“Hall of Narrating Lineage”), symbolizing reverence for ancestral roots and ethical principles. The middle section displays plaques listing ancestors’ official titles and imperial examination achievements, showcasing familial prestige. Over 100 additional plaques line the wing corridors, attesting to Houwu’s past glory. The Chengyi Ancestral Hall was built by the six sons of Wu Zhang, the fourteenth-generation patriarch of the Wu clan, to honor their father. In the clan genealogy, the fourteenth generation is named after the character *Cheng*, with Wu Zhang ranking first—hence the hall’s name. Wu Zhang was diligent, adhered strictly to clan rules, upheld rituals and filial piety, and raised his children well. His six sons were named after the Six Arts: Ritual, Music, Archery, Charioteering, Literature, and Mathematics, leading to the alternative name “Six Sons’ Hall.” The Lishan Ancestral Hall, built to honor the twenty-fourth-generation ancestor Wu Hanzu of Houwu Village, is also worth visiting.

Houwu Village is steeped in culture, evident even in the names of its ancient homes. *Simatai* (司马第, “Simas’ Residence”) originally belonged to an official who served as *Simashi* (司马, roughly equivalent to a military governor)—a name later echoed in terms like “Presidential Palace” or “Minister’s Building.” It was built by Wu Wenwu, a gifted man who valued family scholarship. All seven of his sons achieved success, earning titles such as *Jinshi* (advanced scholars), imperial students, tribute students, and local officials. Inside *Hucuncheng Hall* (壶存诚堂), the main hall of Simatai, grows a 5-meter-tall, half-meter-wide cycad tree, reportedly over 400 years old. *Pingshan Retreat* (屏山精舍), also called *Shuyu Hall* (树玉堂), was the private residence of Wu Yongsong. The underside of its main hall’s beam features exquisite bas-relief carvings of *A Hundred Birds Paying Homage to the Phoenix*, each bird uniquely posed and vividly lifelike. *Osmanthus Residence* (桂花居), built during the Qing Dynasty’s Jiaqing era, gained fame for its scholarly owners and the fragrance of its osmanthus blooms, which could be smelled across half the village when in season. *Orchid Residence* (兰花居), a century-old home from the late Qing era, earned its name from the numerous orchid varieties cultivated by its owner from the start. Though the residents have changed over generations, their love for orchids remains—every spring, the courtyard fills with delicate fragrance.

Houwu Village remains unshaken by change. Through seven or eight centuries of turmoil, war, and seasons, it has preserved the frugality, parental devotion, and philanthropy cherished by both its clan and the Chinese nation. In the misty early autumn rain, wandering this ancient village of white walls and black tiles evokes deep reflection. Along moss-covered stone lanes, centuries-old homes silently recount their past. Window lattices and door panels bear intricate wood carvings—themes like “Fourth Son Visits Mother,” “Carp Leaps the Dragon Gate,” “Magpies on Plum Blossoms,” “Generations of Nobility,” and “Three Rams Bring Prosperity”—all symbols of virtue and good fortune, guiding the village’s simple, harmonious generations. Even today, occasional visitors barely disturb the village’s tranquil life. Peering into open ancestral homes, you might see a silver-haired old woman, still wearing twin braids, sitting at a table sorting greens in rubber shoes meant for farm work in the rain. In another courtyard, a middle-aged woman washes rice while chickens stroll the patio and a dog lounges under the corridor. Tourists are guests; the animals are the true masters. At the lane’s entrance, a butcher, a vegetable vendor, and a tofu seller tend to modest businesses. By the old stone washing boards used by generations of women, villagers pound endless laundry with wooden mallets. Though designated a “China Historical and Cultural Village” by the Ministry of Housing and Urban-Rural Development and the National Cultural Heritage Administration in June this year, Houwu Village remains as vibrant, serene, and grounded as it has been for centuries.

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Houwu Village: Also known as Houwu (后吴), this village lies at the foot of Lishan Mountain in Yongkang City’s southern region. A towering green mountain resembling a screen stands before it. With over 800 households and 3,000 residents, the area boasts open, flat terrain, framed by the verdant screen mountain ahead and the winding Jinxi Stream behind—a picturesque setting of clear mountains and water. The village has a long history and has produced many notable figures. Since its establishment in 1222 during the Song Dynasty’s Jiading era (1222), it has flourished for over 770 years. Among the Wu descendants were the renowned “Three Wu Ministers”: Wu Fu, a scholar of the Longtu Pavilion; Wu Jian, Left Prime Minister; and Wu Shilai, Grand Coordinator. The village’s legacy of talent continues... [More details about Houwu Village++]