Older climbers often mocked the younger generation for leaping across bouldering routes, accusing them of lacking technique. In their eyes, such monkey-like movements might have some value in bouldering, but “real” climbing required a more “refined” style.
But when CHRIS SHARMA and his young peers started hopping and flowing effortlessly up America’s most difficult routes, that misconception was completely shattered. The secret of the younger generation lies not just in their ape-like strength, but in how they use it—employing dynamic moves to harness momentum and propel themselves to the next hold. Want to add some leaps to your climbing? Here are a few tips.
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Let the concept of dynamics sink inIf you know all the holds on a route, consider whether using dynamic or elastic movements might improve efficiency. Dynamics engage your legs and hips, whereas locking off or statically reaching for holds drains your back and upper body. If you know the next handhold is huge, why waste precious upper-body strength with a static move? Practice and get comfortable with dynamic moves during route training so they become second nature during redpoint attempts.
Footwork: precise, decisive, and in one moveWhen practicing a route, minimize foot movements. Find footholds that allow you to make several hand moves before shifting. Avoid frequent foot swaps or small, incremental steps. If you need to reach a high foothold or a heel hook, try jumping to it instead of stepping up gradually or edging up the wall. Similarly, on overhanging routes, relax your lower body and use swing momentum rather than relying solely on core strength to reach the next foothold. Often, there are moves from good handholds to bad ones—try to get your feet up high while you’re still holding the good hold. It may be harder to reach the next hold afterward, but it saves time and energy compared to moving your feet after grabbing a poor hold.
Using just one foot can sometimes be better than twoCHRIS SHARMA’s climbing is a great example. His famous “tripod” stance involves both hands and one foot on the wall, while the other leg swings behind. This allows his body to pivot around one foothold, making it easier to generate sway and upward momentum. The tripod technique is especially useful for climbers with limited hip flexibility, as placing both feet on the wall tends to cause their hips to lift and pull them off the wall. Also, on routes with downward-sloping or slippery footholds, the combination of pressure and friction determines whether your foot stays put. If you slip off, don’t blame your shoes—maybe you just didn’t apply enough pressure. Putting your weight on one foot greatly increases pressure, while the other foot helps maintain balance. Finally, letting one leg hang loose helps keep your body lower, allowing you to hang with straight arms and conserve energy.
Yell out loud！Some say yelling can boost your power by 20%. Whether that's scientifically proven or not, it seems to work well for weightlifters and martial artists. If you're shy, start with a soft yell and gradually build up. For extremely powerful or explosive moves, sounds like “Ah—!” or “Ha—!” tend to be the most effective.
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