The CE and UIAA standards consist of four criteria, which are briefly introduced as follows:
1. Direct Impact Test: A 5-kilogram blunt object (with a 5-centimeter radius) is dropped freely from a height of 2 meters onto the top of the helmet. The impact force on the dummy's (wooden) neck must be less than 8 kilonewtons (UIAA standard); it must be less than 10 kilonewtons (CE standard). One kilonewton is approximately equal to 100 kilograms of force (9.8 Newtons = 1 kgf). In other words, the impact force on the dummy's neck must be less than 800 kilograms of force (UIAA standard), and less than 1000 kilograms of force (CE standard).
2. Side Impact Test: At a 60-degree angle to the vertical direction (top of the head), tests are conducted from the front, both sides, and the back. A blunt object is dropped freely from a height of 50 centimeters, and the impact force on the dummy's neck must be less than 8 kilonewtons (UIAA standard); it must be less than 10 kilonewtons (CE standard).
3. Penetration Test by Sharp Objects: A 3-kilogram conical object (with a 0.5-millimeter tip) is dropped freely from a height of 2 meters, and the helmet must withstand at least one such impact. The helmet is allowed to be damaged, but the sharp object must not come into direct contact with the scalp.
4. Stability Test (also called the front-to-back displacement test): A 10-kilogram weight is dropped onto the helmet from the front and back respectively, and the helmet must still remain properly fitted on the dummy’s head (the angle of movement after impact is recorded during the test).
Please note criteria 1 and 2, where the sensor measures the impact force on the neck. This indicates that the helmet is not only required to resist impact but also to absorb kinetic energy and reduce the force—similar to a dynamic rope. The shock-absorbing function of the helmet aims to minimize the impact on the wearer’s cervical spine and vertebrae.
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Secondly, note criterion 3. Although this is a one-time "pass/fail" test, a high-quality climbing helmet (such as HB’s Dyneema) can withstand 10 such impacts. Durability is especially valuable during long alpine climbs or big wall climbing. Unlike regular climbing, if your helmet gets damaged during the day, you can’t just go back to town and buy a new one at night.
Aside from mountaineering and rock climbing, I also ride road and mountain bikes, rollerblade, and cross-country ski. I oppose using helmets from other sports for climbing. False security may lead to unexpected consequences. Bicycle and rollerblade helmets definitely do not meet the third criterion for climbing helmets. Construction site safety helmets will certainly fail the fourth test.
Currently, there are three main types of helmets on the market: hard shell, foam, and hybrid. Hard-shell helmets are made from high-strength engineering plastics or fiber-reinforced polymers. The advantage is that they are durable and can withstand impacts (you don’t have to worry too much when packing them), but they are heavier. Foam helmets aren’t actually “soft.” Their advantage is being lightweight, but they are not as sturdy as the former. Hybrid helmets use a thin hard shell with a foam inner lining. Their design and feel are more similar to foam helmets.
For your safety, please use a climbing-specific helmet that has been tested and certified to meet European Union and/or UIAA standards.
This post has been synced to Shi Tou-climber’s Weibo.