Three Tips to Prevent Arm Pumping
Want to improve your performance on the wall? Training hard to build muscle is great, but learning how to conserve energy while climbing and recover quickly is even smarter, isn’t it?
Many climbers are obsessed with getting jacked (though maybe not so much in China), while neglecting the value of optimizing energy distribution and efficient recovery methods. In fact, top climbers are indeed quite strong; but not all strong people can become top climbers. The difference between pros and casual climbers lies in the details: using efficient movements to prevent arm fatigue and maximizing rest during climbs.
The three tips below can help you reach the level of the pros. Give them a try, and you’ll find that no matter your current skill or strength level, the onset of arm pump and fatigue will be delayed.
Conserve energy while climbing. Most climbers don’t conserve energy when they’re tired. Improving climbing efficiency (climbing faster to avoid complete exhaustion) requires conscious effort—you can even practice with a partner and turn it into a little competition.
Here are some energy-saving techniques you can practice first on easier outdoor routes or indoor climbing walls.
1. Before starting a route (during route reading), identify your rest points. Don’t chalk up or take breaks anywhere except at these designated spots. Move through the sections between rest points as quickly as possible.
2. Don’t hold onto any hold for more than 5 seconds, except at rest points. Get through those crimpers and slopers as fast as you can.
3. Vary your grip techniques as much as possible. If you can grab a hold the way you want, go for it—CRIMP, OPEN HAND, THUMB BLOCKS, PINCH (get creative, and try not to repeat the same grip too much)! Don’t miss any chance to use jug holds or big edges—these are excellent energy-savers, though climbers who stick mostly to face routes often don’t get to use them. Relax your arms and fingers between moves.
Most climbers wait until they’re almost exhausted before taking a break—that’s not ideal. You should adopt more professional resting techniques. While moving your hand from one hold to the next, open and close your fingers a few times or bend your arm a few times—imagine the blood that was trapped in your fingers and palms during that tough crimp starting to flow back. This action stimulates circulation in your forearms. Doing this kind of relaxation between moves can significantly slow down the onset of arm pump and fatigue.
Use the G-Tox method to speed up recovery. Letting your arms hang naturally and shaking them out is a common way to relieve arm pump. But it’s not the best method. Using gravity is more effective—hence the name “G-Tox” (G = GRAVITY). G-Tox: While resting, alternate between letting your arms hang naturally and holding them above your head. For example, lower your arms and shake them out for 5 seconds, then raise them halfway above your shoulders and shake them out for another 5 seconds. Repeat this cycle until you’re fully relaxed or until the maximum rest time allowed at the rest point. Related image:
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How G-Tox works: The arm pump you feel is largely caused by a buildup of lactic acid and restricted blood circulation. When you shake your hands to relax, fresh blood flows into your arms, but because your arms are below heart level, the “old blood” (carrying lactic acid, etc.) can’t flow out. The result is a circulation “traffic jam,” which prevents the pump from subsiding and slows down recovery. (Ever noticed that your arms actually feel more pumped when you’re hanging and shaking them?)
The G-Tox method uses gravity to help venous blood return to the heart, promoting the removal of lactic acid and speeding up recovery. The effect is undeniable—you’ll definitely feel the pump in your forearms easing when you raise your arms. During climbing, use this method every time you rest, alternating between raised and lowered positions while shaking out your arms for 5 to 10 seconds at a time.
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