Tenba Sherpa
He is Tenba Sherpa.
Thirteen years later, Tenba’s story can still be seen across Kathmandu and along the route to Everest. Many outdoor shops in Kathmandu display his promotional photos, and his summit photo is prominently featured in the Sherpa Memorial Hall in Namche.
Climbing brought him honor but also pain—on the way to Everest’s summit, he lost five fingers and developed chronic migraines that still flare up occasionally.
Today, Tenba still loves the mountains and climbing. He has formed a mountaineering support team mainly composed of post-80s Sherpas to serve climbers from around the world.
In an exclusive interview with our special correspondent, Tenba Sherpa revealed that in June, he will travel to Xinjiang to climb Kusum Kanguru Peak, which stands at 7,028 meters above sea level. He also plans to visit the Urumqi Evening News, which has served as a bridge for cultural exchange between Nepal and Xinjiang, to thank them for promoting Nepal.
Reporter: The day you summited Everest (North Face) must have been extraordinarily meaningful to you?
Tenba: As a Sherpa, climbing is my job. Of course, you know we call Everest “Sagarmatha,” meaning “Forehead of the Sky.” When I summited from the North Face at the age of 16 years and 14 days and set this record, I can say climbing Everest changed my life. All the honors I have today stem from that somewhat crazy act.
Reporter: You’re now completely familiar with China—you use WeChat, QQ, and even in Nepal’s tourist spots, many guides mistake you for Chinese. Tell us about your view of China and Chinese mountaineering.
Tenba: In the past, it was rare to see Chinese tourists or climbers in Nepal, but now it’s different. In Kathmandu’s famous tourist district, Thamel, Chinese people and Chinese restaurants are everywhere, and Nepalis really enjoy making friends with Chinese.
China has so many mountains, and I’ve been invited to climb some of them. There are so many climbers in China, and their gear is very professional—they’re at a high level. I hope more Chinese will come to Nepal for tourism and climbing.
Reporter: Do you plan to come to Xinjiang this year to take part in climbing activities?
Tenba: When I was in China, people told me how delicious Xinjiang’s lamb skewers are, and that there are snow-capped peaks like Muztagh Ata and K2. Hearing that got me really excited. In June this year, I’ll go to Xinjiang to take part in climbing activities. I’m looking forward to seeing Xinjiang’s snow mountains and grasslands, and I also want to ride a camel in Xinjiang.