Xiaoyao Rock

Xiaoyao Rock

Xiaoyao Rock, also known as Xian Rock, is located by the Dongjiang River, two li south of the city. Historical records indicate that as early as seven hundred years ago, this place was already a popular destination for sightseeing and summer retreats in Heyuan. The rock is shaped like a crescent moon. Beneath it, a small stream winds around the mountain. From the foot of the mountain, a slope ascends to the mountainside, where the cave entrance stretches 81 meters in length. Originally, there were stone steps and railings; from the remains, one can see that there were originally 88 stone steps and 42 railing posts, though the railings have now completely disappeared. Fifty steps up from the foot of the mountain leads to a main cave. The cave entrance is 4 meters high, 9 meters wide, and 16 meters deep. Inside the cave, there are stone steps and a table, with the platform being a 2-meter square and the step-table measuring 6 meters long and 50 centimeters wide. On the right side of the cave entrance, on the stone cliff, there is a rectangular frame 1.6 meters long and 50 centimeters wide, inside which the three running script characters “Xiaoyao Rock” (逍遥岩) are carved in relief. The characters measure 40×40 cm each. The signature is inscribed with eight running script characters, each 10 cm square: “Yan Song wrote this for Qiu Yu, the owner of the rock dwelling” (崖松为岩宅邱隅书). The characters are bold and forceful, and remain well-preserved to this day. Additionally, on the left side of the cave, there is a seven-character poem carved, but due to weathering and erosion, the inscriptions have become blurred. Outside the poem, there is a rectangular frame 1.6 meters long and 50 centimeters wide, with characters measuring 9 cm square. To the right of the cave entrance, there is a platform commonly known as the “Viewing Platform.” Standing on the platform, one can view the confluence of two rivers, as well as scenic spots such as Turtle Peak Pagoda.

According to Volume 130, Section 15, Page 20 of Ruan’s Guangdong General Annals (《广东通志》), under the “Epigraphy Summary” (金石略): “The inscriptions at Xiaoyao Rock still exist. ‘Xiaoyao Rock’ was written by Qiu Yu, the owner of the rock, and Yan Song. It is noted that the carving is located in Heyuan, with no specific date. The Record of Visiting Stone Inscriptions Worldwide (寰宇访碑录) places it in the Song Dynasty, stating: written by He Tianyin.” Volume 12, Page 3 of the Heyuan County Annals (《河源县志》) states: “Xiaoyao Rock, located south of the city, stands as an independent gateway, with stone steps to climb, and the two rivers lying between the cliffs.” Volume 14, Page 30, further records a preface to a visit to Xiaoyao Rock written by Jiang Xiongxi (江熊锡), titled “Preface to a Tour of Xiaoyao Rock” (《游逍遥岩序》), which says: “In the southern part of the city lies a cluster of rocks called Xiaoyao Rock. The Song Dynasty’s Mr. He Tianyin pioneered it, and the Ming Dynasty’s Mr. Qiu Yu expanded and perfected it. Spacious as a deep room, flat enough to set up tables. The exploration of cliff inscriptions for scenic beauty has seen uninterrupted streams of visitors. Bringing wine to explore wonders, many have come here in their finest shoes. The winding railings are only rumored to be like heavenly iron bridges; the connected halls, though lofty, are mistaken for pavilions in the sky. The evening rustle of pine waves seems to echo the clear tones of bells from Zhongshan Mountain; the occasional blooming of stream herbs makes one feel as if gathering faint fragrances from Goulng Ridge. Gazing at the great river, it appears as a bright mirror floating by; looking down at the cold rocks, the shaded woods seem to separate the world...” From these historical records, we can see that Xiaoyao Rock was pioneered as a tourist destination during the Song Dynasty, in the year 1247 (the Dingwei year of the Chunyou era), by the scholar-official He Tianyin, and later expanded and refined by Qiu Yu, an annual tribute scholar of the Ming Dynasty.

Not only does Xiaoyao Rock have a long history, but it also boasts serene and unique scenery. Poets and scholars throughout the ages have sung its praises. From the surviving poems we have collected, it is evident that Xiaoyao Rock is indeed a naturally formed paradise, a hidden world apart.

“The immortal rock has stood since ancient times, / Immortal grass thrives and withers on its own. / How did the King of Immortals come to be? / I wish to borrow a pair of ducks.” This is the poem “Inscription on Xiaoyao Rock” (《题逍遥岩》) left by Zheng Jingdao, the magistrate of Heyuan County during the Zhengde era of the Ming Dynasty, after visiting Xiaoyao Rock on official business and exploring it with companions. Xiao Guanghe, who accompanied him, responded in the same rhyme: “Quietly wandering the immortal rock, / In the deep mountains, the stones never wither. / A gentle breeze brings forth unique grasses, / A warm sun lulls a pair of ducks to sleep.”

From the poem “Secluded Valley of Leisure” (《逍遥幽壑》) by poet Li Shaozeng, we can imagine the sentiments of visitors in those days. The poem reads: “The joy of leisure stirs one to roam, / Exploring leisure clears ten thousand worries. / Where steps exist, they are fit to tread, / Where dust is none, true clarity abides. / The silent cliffhead stirs emotions like mere dots, / The hidden springs connect in secret holes. / Wishing to spend idle days coming and going here, / Do not ask of the world’s rise and fall.” The famous filial son of Heyuan, Ma Shukang, wrote “Tour of Xiaoyao Rock” (《游逍遥岩》), which has its own distinctive charm: “Climbing the rock to its peak is like reaching the heavens, / Observing all the highs and lows of the human world. / Layer upon layer of beautiful flowers like brocades, / Heavy upon heavy exquisite stones like a cloud ladder. / Singing loudly, fearing the stars might shake, / Speaking softly, startling birds into chirping. / Moments of inspiration yield casual verses, / Ten thousand years hence, these inscriptions will remain.” Monk Hongyin’s “Tour of Xiaoyao Rock” (《游逍遥岩》) achieves a similar effect through different imagery. The poem goes: “Leaning on my staff atop the rock, my vision broadens, / Arriving here, my heart instantly finds peace. / The bird of the Northern Sea—who transformed first? / In the heavenly realm where none dwell, I am at leisure. / Stone steps pierce the clouds toward silver pavilions, / Rain-slicked caves and hollows exude jade-like chill. / Meeting here, we share the joy of forest and spring, / Laughing over tea smoke and cheerful talk.”

Yang Shiqi praised the poetic beauty of Xiaoyao Rock in his poem “Tour of Xiaoyao Rock” (《游逍遥岩》): “South of Yuewang Terrace and amidst Luofu’s curves, / The immortal cave soars majestically, cut off from worldly aura. / On the stone cliffs, birds’ traces linger when rain clears, / On warm sandy shores, flocks of geese disperse. / A small bridge offers paths for travelers now and then, / Old trees cast no shade, yet hinder no clouds. / Through ancient and modern times, the esteemed and wise come to admire, / Leaving behind lofty verses and grand prose.”

In the past, the area surrounding Xiaoyao Rock was a garden-like landscape. Don’t believe it? Please read Jiang Xiongxi’s “Viewing Peach Blossoms at Xiaoyao Rock on Mid-Autumn” (《中秋逍遥岩看桃花》): “The immortal source leaves behind fine cultivation, / The climate, hard to harmonize, causes blooms to open early. / In late autumn, rouge-hued blossoms, thin with moonlight, / Deep in dew, palace silks tailored by clouds. / No harm in stunning beauty astonishing fishermen, / Most joyful is the camel-colored face turned to the wine cup. / Laughing, I clap the railing and rise to dance, / As if suspecting the arrival of a night visitor.” Poet Kuang Chengying responded with: “Again and again, I pause at the sailing pavilion, / Suddenly seeing immortal peaches bloom brilliantly. / As if tinged with spring rain’s hues, / No harm in blooming beside autumn clouds. / Moonlight veils bright shadows leaning on lotus seats, / Wind ties red blossoms into jade cups. / Yet I laugh at those in the Heavenly Terrace realm, / Leaving a few branches for Ruan and Liu to enjoy.” Xu Yingrou’s “Climbing Xiaoyao Rock” (《登逍遥岩》) also confirms this. The poem reads: “Visiting chrysanthemums, I chance upon the outskirts, / Ascending Xiaoyao Rock, a joyful climb. / Surrounded by distant, misty cloud-covered mountains, / A rugged path leads to deep stone cottages. / Looking down, the lone city meets the setting sun, / Leisurely leaning on a small pavilion, I open my heart. / High in the sky, the wind rushes through autumn’s void, / Only the lack of southern wild geese’s cries is missed.”

The most interesting description of Xiaoyao Rock’s wondrous scenery comes from the palindrome poem “Xiaoyao Rock Palindrome” (《逍遥岩回文》) by Guan Wenyun, a successful candidate in the imperial examinations during the Qianlong Bingzi year: Reading it forward: “Mountain clouds lock green trees lush, / Quiet courtyard’s bell sounds with birds calling. / Winding path’s late blooms, cold stamens emerge, / Curved railing, slanted stones, ancient poems inscribed. / Idle monks sit facing layers of blue peaks, / Drunken guests wander as distant geese fly low. / Returning to sunny ridges stacked day by day, / Outside the closed mountain gate, wild smoke shrouds.” Reading it backward: “Outside the wild mountain gate, the closed gate shuts, / Stacked ridges shine under the sun’s return. / Low-flying geese come from afar, drunk guests roam, / Blue peaks layer upon layer, facing idle monks. / Ancient poems inscribed on slanted, curved stones, / Cold stamens emerge on winding late-blooming paths. / Birds’ calls number several, bell courtyard quiet, / Lush green trees lock the cloud-covered mountains.”

Not only is Xiaoyao Rock scenically beautiful, but it is also an excellent place to escape the summer heat. Poet Zhang Kui’s “Summer Retreat at Xiaoyao Rock” (《逍遥岩避暑》) attests to this: “The immortal rock rivals the land of coolness, / I take friends to roam together, riding the fine wind. / New rice wine blames people for drinking too little, / Wild ponds envy guests’ flushed faces. / Loving to walk the stone steps, as if treading cloud stairs, / Greedily sitting in the flower palace, as if in a snow hall. / As long as one attains the timeless joy of leisure, / No muggy summer heat will reach the heart.”

According to historical records and on-site investigations, the scenic wonders of Xiaoyao Rock also include the now-defunct cultural relics and historic sites of “Qichan Hermitage,” “Qichan Temple,” “Guanyin Pavilion,” and the “General’s Stele.” Among them, “Qichan Hermitage” is located below Xiaoyao Rock. “Guanyin Pavilion” is situated atop Xiaoyao Rock. “Qichan Temple” is west of Xiaoyao Rock. Poet Cui Fangzhi also left behind a poem titled “Qichan Temple” (《凄禅寺》): “Since the white horse carried the scriptures, / How many blessed lands and gardens are known? / Now seeing the deep cave of Xiaoyao Rock, / Gibbons and doves nest near Qichan Temple. / Lofty towers and bridges east and west, / Scooping water, fragrant scenes abound. / Scriptures preached as flowers fall from the clouds, / A staff planted where forest shade dispels heat. / Not a speck of dust reaches the pine pass, / Elders among monks grow thin with the shadows. / Who would have thought appreciative eyes could be kind, / Lending poets lodging for a couple of nights. / High mountains and remote lands, the moon hangs round, / Morning bells and evening drums startle dragons’ sleep. / Seems I’m too lazy to study non-being, / Sighing deeply, I return to my fishing boat.”

The inscriptions on the “General’s Stele” had already become indistinct by the early Qing Dynasty, and its origins are unknown, leaving even earlier generations puzzled. The Qianlong Ren Shen year successful candidate in the imperial examinations, Kuang Shiyi, wrote in “Ode to the General’s Stele at Xiaoyao Rock” (《咏逍遥岩将军碑》): “Steep stones rough and rugged on the southern hills, / Two rivers embrace and clash as if devouring each other. / Amidst them lies an ancient cave like a grand hall, / Travelers search the desolate stele’s inscriptions. / The characters blurred, hard to discern, / Paper prints and pine soot worn to traces. / Moss darkened, earth eroded, all peeled away, / Only the title and author’s name partially remain. / Some suspect the drawings unlike tadpoles, / Surely not words from before the Qin or Han. / Others say the Yuan or Ming are not far off, / Why then is nothing entirely intact? / The era and surname cannot be traced, / Leading to disputes and varied theories. / Even if Lu Tong or Han Yu were alive, / How could they suppress all the strange sights? / Throughout history, how much has been ruined, / Yet splendid places leave behind immortal spirits. / If the old stele were to disappear entirely, / Who would know but to call it a mere rock? / Fortunately, Xiaoyao Rock remains daily in view, / Even after long years, it is still called the General.”

Although most of the cultural relics and historic sites of Xiaoyao Rock have been lost, the existing ruins can certainly be restored. If we first repair Xiaoyao Rock to its original state, restore the railings and stone steps, rebuild a small winding bridge, allowing visitors to ascend step-by-step to enjoy the leisure of Xiaoyao Rock, that alone would be a new delight. Then, systematically restore the surrounding scenic spots, reopening this area as a tourist zone. For Yuancheng Town, where Heyuan City is located, this would play a significant role in both developing tourism and boosting urban economic growth. I have compiled this article in hopes of resonating with those of insight. May readers look up to the noble spirit of our ancestors to cultivate virtue and ambition, feel the civilization of their homeland to inspire love for country and hometown. May those in power investigate the causes behind scenic wonders, to understand the hardships of creation and cherish both past and present. If this can be achieved, then it would be a great fortune indeed.