Sandao Gorge

Sandao Gorge

Sandao Gorge

Turning northward from Maliantan, you will arrive at the most famous “Little Three Gorges” within Zhugou Gorge. These Little Three Gorges are known in Tibetan historical records as the three passes guarded by the “Fierce Tiger, Azure Dragon, Rakshasa, and Vajra,” leading to the sacred realm of the East Sea.

The three gorges are layered like concentric barriers, with the river from the East Sea bursting forth through the knife-cut cliffs, exuding an enticing mystery that leads to an ancient Tibetan myth. Now, let our hearts calm with this clear stream, and with reverence, step into the “Three Gorges” and into the stories of myths and legends.

Gesar’s Hidden Sword Cave

Located on the cliffs of the First Gorge in the East Sea Grand Canyon scenic area. This cliff, with its rare marvels and miraculous craftsmanship rarely seen on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, leaves visitors in awe. The mountain peak on the left resembles a towering, fierce tiger, exuding an intimidating aura. The one on the right is like a thousand-foot iron wall or ten-thousand-zhang bronze bastion, causing one to hesitate and find no path forward. This is the gateway guarded by the “Fierce Tiger.” The smooth, mirror-like cliff face, from a modern sports perspective, is an ideal site for rock climbing competitions, awaiting those with the courage to brave the challenge and conquer this iron barrier.

Gesar’s Hidden Sword Cave is a natural karst cave, divided into upper and lower levels, winding and deep, opening into a unique cavern world with upside-down stalactites, creating a fantastical scene. It is said to be the place where King Gesar hid his divine sword during his southern and northern campaigns, subduing demons and eliminating evils for the people. In addition to the Hidden Sword Cave, there are also sites such as King Gesar’s chessboard stone and the footprint stone of the deity Erlang. This is a paradise for rock climbers.

To the northeast of Sandao Gorge, atop the Zake Mountain, there are many karst caves scattered about. Among them is a massive cave, locally called the Dragon Cave. According to locals who have entered the northern part of the cave, it is about half the size of a basketball court, with scattered bones of wild animals on the ground and glittering stalactites hanging from the ceiling. These stalactites emit a fragrant aroma like herbs and are believed to have healing properties. Locals often collect them to place under their home altars for worship and healing. After advancing some twenty to thirty meters, the cave suddenly drops off, connecting to another level below. This labyrinth-like cave seems to be nested layer upon layer—no one knows how many hidden chambers there are, nor whether it leads to an underground palace or a dragon’s lair. Yet, a cool, damp air flows up from the depths, and faintly, the sound of flowing water can be heard. This is an age-old mystery, a puzzle left by nature. All these strange natural phenomena are concentrated in one place, and their significance seems to be linked to the East Sea.

The Second Gorge runs northeastward, with steep and rugged ridges on both sides, twisting like dragons. On the cliff faces, there are naturally formed Tibetan letters resembling esoteric Buddhist mantras. Religious stories say it is where “the Azure Dragon coils, and the mantras bestow power.” The majestic iron pass, with dragons coiled and tigers crouched, deters even demons from entering. Moreover, there is an even more tightly guarded inner pass. The First Gorge is also known as the “Inner Gate.” The left cliff face resembles an angry Vajra, gazing proudly. The right cliff looks like a demon mother casting spells, captivating souls. This is the final pass guarded by the “Dakinis” and “Rakshasas.” Once past this gate, you enter the “Inner Gate” of the sacred realm. Only those who can pass through these three mighty gates and withstand these three trials can enter the sacred realm. Who is worthy? Tibetan Buddhism uses these natural gorges as metaphors for the three thresholds to the realm of Buddha and gods. The same principle applies in life: those who seek the true path must climb and pass through these gates, traversing the necessary journey to reach their ideal state.

Passing through the three gates and entering the Inner Gate, you will reach the highland summer pastures filled with wildflowers, pastoral songs, and cooking smoke. From here, you can see the majestic presence of Baigeta Mountain, “towering a thousand zhang high, with a single peak spinning as you gaze.” In the morning light, it resembles an early imperial court where “the moonlight has just arrived, the immortal’s palm moves, and the incense wafts as if to depict dragons rising.” At dusk, when the sky is clear and the setting sun casts slanting rays, it appears like a pyramid built of layers of golden blocks, solemn and silent, dazzling and magnificent, bringing surprise and awe.

A Huarui folk song goes: “Like a white conch, Baigeta Mountain reaches toward the sky, like a towering white conch tower. She is the crown of the Huarui Tibetan region, the grand palace of the Supreme Joy Jewel, the mountain where white yaks roam, and the good hill fort of white lucky sheep. Truly, she is crystal-white in winter, emerald-green in summer, golden in autumn, and varicolored like agate in spring.” Baigeta Mountain also has a magical natural phenomenon: in midsummer, one must not shout loudly at the mountaintop. If you ignore the warning and shout anyway, dark clouds will soon gather, thunder will roar, and torrential rain or hail will pour down unexpectedly, catching you off guard and filling you with dread. Soon after, the clouds disperse, the sky clears, and sunlight shines brilliantly. No wonder devout believers kowtow in full-body prostration to worship and pay homage.

Known as the sacred mountain of the “Nine Deities of Gaozha,” Baigeta Mountain is recorded in Tibetan scriptures as having “a precious jewel atop its peak.” During the Republican era, someone discovered a silver pillar several zhang tall on this peak. Later, when he returned with tools to excavate it, not only did he fail to find the silver pillar, but he also fell into a sacred lake in the fog and disappeared. This is a story firmly believed by locals. What is credible is that this mountain is indeed a treasure mountain—the entire Sigou Valley is like a canyon paved with gold. It once produced a miraculously large gold nugget weighing 7.6 kilograms, shaped like a mother and baby monkey. Many other treasures have also been found here, including Iceland spar, silver, copper, and more.

In a vision, a troop of armored soldiers engages in fierce battle, locked in an intense struggle.