Xizhou Ancient Town

Xizhou Ancient Town

Bordered by Erhai Lake to the east and Cangshan Mountain to the west, Xizhou Ancient Town preserves the largest and best-preserved cluster of Bai ethnic residential architecture, all designed in the traditional “three courtyards with one screen wall” and “four courtyards with five skylights” Bai courtyard layouts. These homes feature exquisitely carved beams and painted rafters, overlapping brackets, and vibrant decorative paintings on gate towers, screen walls, and gable walls. Xizhou is also home to well-known residences such as the Yang Pingsiang Residence, the Yan Family Courtyard, and the Hou Family Courtyard, which retain traditional Bai architectural features while incorporating Chinese and Western design elements.

Upon arriving in Xizhou, the first thing you’ll notice are the two large, leafy banyan trees at the entrance of the village. This type of tree, rarely seen in northern China and commonly known as the “evergreen,” is scientifically named the Ficus altissima. The Bai people regard the banyan tree as a symbol of a village’s prosperity, hence calling it the “fengshui tree.” Every ancient Bai village typically has its own fengshui tree. These trees often form the community hub alongside a local stage. The two ancient banyans at the entrance of Xizhou have stood for many years. Legend says they are a yin-yang pair—one tree sheds leaves as the other sprouts new ones, alternating in a perpetual cycle; one bears fruit while the other never does. Villagers often rest under their shade during breaks from labor; long processions during the “Rao Sanling” festival dance joyfully around them; and even when a funeral procession passes through the village, mourners walk around the trees once and burn paper streamers beneath them to express the deceased’s attachment to the village. Not far away, in the northeast corner of the village, there’s another ancient banyan tree where flocks of white egrets often gather in autumn—a unique sight in Xizhou.

The central square of Xizhou Town, Sifang Street, is a small plaza surrounded by shops. Here stands a stone memorial archway, the recently built “Civilization Archway.” The original stone archway here was called the “Inscription Archway,” erected after several scholars from the town passed imperial examinations during the Ming Dynasty. In those days, villagers who achieved academic honors could have their names inscribed on it. Though Xizhou is an administrative town and government seat, historically it had the scale of a city. Long before the Nanzhao Kingdom relocated to the area around Erhai Lake, this place was inhabited by the Bai ancestors known as the “Helian,” then called Dali City, which already had a sizable population. Legend has it that a general of Emperor Wen of the Sui Dynasty, named Shi Wansui, stationed troops here, hence it was also called Shicheng (Shi City). The nearby plain was referred to as “Shidan” (with “dan” meaning district or state, similar to “dian”). During the Nanzhao period, a royal palace was built here. Clues to the city’s layout can still be found in nearby place names, such as Chengbei (North of the City), Chengdong (East of the City), and Chengnan (South of the City). Archaeologists have also unearthed Nanzhao-era tiles with inscriptions, thick fabric-patterned tiles, and lotus-patterned tile ends in the town.

Historically, Xizhou Town was a military stronghold of the Nanzhao Kingdom with a relatively developed culture, producing many notable figures who contributed to various sectors of society. In the past, Xizhou also had a thriving commercial and industrial sector, serving as one of Yunnan’s key trade hubs.

The Xizhou Bai Ethnic Ancient Architectural Complex is located at the foot of the Wutai Peak of Cangshan Mountain in Dali City, western Yunnan Province, on the eastern side of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway. It currently preserves 101 well-maintained residences from the Ming, Qing, and Republican periods, along with approximately 1,500 more that continue traditional Bai architectural styles. The layout of these homes varies, including single-row single-courtyard, single-row double-courtyard, double-row triple-courtyard, three-courtyards-with-one-screen-wall, four-courtyards-with-five-skylights, Five Blessings and Longevity, Six Harmonies in Spring, and revolving horse-gate towers.

The structure of the houses combines raised beams and pierced rafters, with five pillars resting on the ground. Inner courtyard eaves feature overhanging or reverse-facing designs. Architecturally, the main house is taller than the wing rooms, with a screen wall set at the front. Most screen walls are three-tiered water-surface designs, topped with hip-and-gable roofs and ridges supported by brackets. The walls often bear inscriptions representing family status and values. Screen walls, gates, corridors, and doors/windows are key focal points for decorative artistry in these residences.

Xizhou has been a Bai-inhabited area since the coexistence of the Six Zhaos and the Helian people. During the Sui Dynasty, it was called “Shicheng”; between the Tang and Song Dynasties, it was known as “Dali City” under the Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms. By the late Qing Dynasty and early Republican era, the local ethnic economy had developed rapidly, with most of the major surviving architecture built during this time. Further construction took place in the Republican period, such as the Zhao Family Courtyard in the late Qing Dynasty, the Yan Family Courtyard built in 1920, and the Yang and Dong Family Courtyards built in 1948. The Bai ethnic residences in Xizhou hold significant scientific and artistic value in fields such as ethnology and architecture.

On June 25, 2001, the Xizhou Bai Ethnic Ancient Architectural Complex, recognized as a historical site from the Ming and Qing Dynasties, was approved by the State Council to be included in the fifth batch of Major National Historical and Cultural Sites.

Suggested Duration

Half a day – 1 day

Transportation

Take a minibus from Dali Ancient Town or Xiaguan heading to Xizhou along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway—just wave for a stop. The fare is 5–8 yuan, and the trip from Xiaguan to Xizhou takes about one hour. You can make a day trip or stay overnight in Xizhou to join local evening events and visit nearby attractions like Butterfly Spring the next day.

Ticket

Ancient town: free; Yan Family Courtyard: 30 yuan/person; performance ticket: 42 yuan/person

Opening Hours

Ancient town: open all day; Yan Family Courtyard: 8:30–17:30; Yan Family Residence: 8:00–18:00

Location

Xizhou Town, Xiaguan, Dali City, Yunnan Province

Xizhou Town: Located at the northern tip of Dali City, 32 kilometers from Xiaguan, the seat of Dali Prefecture and municipal government, Xizhou is the hometown of the movie “Five Golden Flowers” and one of Yunnan Province’s renowned historical-cultural towns and key overseas Chinese hometowns. The town covers an area of 161 square kilometers and governs 13 village committees. In 2004, the town’s total economic income was 1.47536 billion yuan, fiscal revenue was 9.43 million yuan, per capita income was 3,853 yuan, and the total population was 63,275, with the Bai ethnic group accounting for 85%—making it a predominantly Bai-established township.