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The most beautiful (and delicious) Dali is in the countryside.

Published: 2026-09-24 👁 101 views
Last updated 2026-09-24 — Cangshan Mountain, Erhai Lake, wind, flowers, snow, and moon—these eight words capture the most classic impression of Dali. For most travelers, the "Dali" they want to visit generally refers to Dali Ancient Town. However, administratively speaking, Dali actually covers a vast area, officially known as the "Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture." Within the entire prefecture, aside from Dali Ancient Town—which is becoming increasingly commercialized—there are still many authentically preserved ancient villages and towns worth exploring. Of course, you also shouldn’t miss the delicious local cuisine hidden away in these rural areas.
Cangshan Mountain, Erhai Lake, wind, flowers, snow, and moon—these eight words capture the most classic impression of Dali. For most travelers, the "Dali" they want to visit generally refers to Dali Ancient Town. However, administratively speaking, Dali actually covers a vast area, officially known as the "Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture." Within the entire prefecture, aside from Dali Ancient Town—which is verging on over-commercialization—there are still many authentically preserved ancient villages and towns worth admiring. Likewise, you shouldn't miss the delicious local dishes tucked away in the countryside.
Weishan
Weishan Ancient Town, also known as Nanzhao Ancient Town, is the birthplace of Nanzhao culture.With its simple folk customs, profound cultural heritage, and pleasant climate, Weishan has fostered a laid-back and serene lifestyle among its residents.This ancient town has remaineduntouched by commercialization. Strolling through its streets, you can still feel a tranquil and unhurried atmosphere, as if you’ve stepped back twenty years into Dali’s past.
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Food: Guojiang Er Si (Crossing-the-River Rice Noodles)
Er Si is a traditional food in Yunnan, with different regions preparing it in various ways. Weishan’s Guojiang Er Si is famous for its complex preparation process and delicious taste. Authentic Weishan Guojiang Er Si is meticulously made—from selecting the meat, simmering it, to preparing the toppings and broth. Even the rice noodles themselves must be made from locally grown yellow-skinned glutinous rice, and they need to be freshly made that very morning to be considered up to standard. The finished dish features tender, sweet, and smooth noodles that are neither too crispy nor sticky, leaving a delightful aftertaste.
Transportation:Take bus4from Dali Ancient Town to Xiaguan, then transfer directly to a bus at Weishan Station to reach Weishan.By car, it takes about50 minutes,1or one hour by bus.
Shaxi
Shaxi Ancient Town is located in the southwestern part of Jianchuan County, situated between Dali and Lijiang. It is agenuine ancient townthatto this daystill retains its most original architectural features. Ancient temples, old stages, historic shops,century-old trees,ancient alleyways,old gateways,horse stables, and red sandstone-paved streetsmake it a special destination. The best time to visit Shaxi Ancient Town is on Fridays, when you can explore the"only surviving ancient market on the Ancient Tea Horse Road."...The best time to visit Shaxi Ancient Town is on Fridays, when you can explore theonly surviving ancient market on the Tea Horse Road”, and personally experience that millennia-old folk culture.
Food: Matsutake Mushrooms
Matsutake mushrooms are a rare and nutritious type of fungus, known as the “king of mushrooms.” They are abundantly produced locally in Shaxi and can be purchased fresh at the market and then taken to small eateries for preparation. A popular local way to enjoy them is in a combination with steam-cooked chicken.Steam-cooked chicken is a creative cooking method that utilizes the principle of steam circulation. The matsutake steam-cooked chickenfeaturesa broth made by blending matsutake with other ingredientsandboiled together. When the pot starts boiling, the aroma of the matsutake infuses into the chicken. Meanwhile, the essence of the marinated chicken seeps into the broth through its pores, creating a perfect harmony among the broth, matsutake, and chicken. The result is a delicious dish with tender meat and a richly flavorful soup.
Transportation:Take a bus from Dali North Bus Station to Jianchuan,--the Dali–Jianchuan route,06:30--18:00departing every15minutes,35yuan per ticket,3approximately30hours and06:30--19:00minutes. Upon arrival at Jianchuan Bus Station, transfer to a green rural minivan heading to Shaxi Ancient Town. These minivans wait at the station entrance, departing(7when full, usually with around)passengers onboard. The fare is13yuan, and the ride takes about40minutes.
Nogeng
Remember “A Bite of China”? In the first season, there was an ancient village—Nogeng—that only appeared for about6a minute but gained fame for its cured ham. Nestled deep in the mountains north of Yunlong County in Dali, Nogeng is an ancient village that developed around the salt industry. With a history of over a thousand years, it was once honored as one of China’s first “National Landscape Villages” for its traditional village scenery. However, due to various reasons, it remained relatively unknown until the airing of “A Bite of China,” which brought Nogeng back into the spotlight. Locals here still use ancient methods to produce salt and cure ham, allowing you to experience the charm of these time-honored crafts firsthand.
Food: Cured Ham
The most famous offering in Nogeng is undoubtedly the “Ham Feast.” This feast doesn’t follow a strict menu—typically, the star ingredient, ham, is paired with various seasonal vegetables and prepared in different ways to create a table full of delightful dishes. Many local households now welcome independent travelers and backpackers. You can customize the number of dishes based on your group size and taste preferences, all using their own home-cured ham. The flavor is simply amazing—even a simple bowl of ham and egg noodles can be incredibly tempting.
Transportation:Take a bus from Xingsheng Bus Station in Xiaguan, Dali, to Yunlong County (7:1016:30,40minutes1trips, with fares around44yuan),3approximately one hour. From Yunlong County, you can take a shared motorcycle taxi or hire a minivan to Nuodeng Village, which takes about half an hour.
Xizhou
The ancient town of Xizhou is located in the northern part of Dali and is renowned for its distinctive residential architecture. The town boasts over a hundred traditional Bai-style houses from the Ming, Qing, Republican, and contemporary periods, each with its own unique features. From a distance, Xizhou appears as both an elegant and classic town and a vast museum of residential architecture. The uniquely shaped and nearly perfectly structured Bai homes give off a sense of stately grandeur mixed with delicate lightness, as well as an aesthetic that is both classic and refined yet free and unrestrained.
Food: Crispy Pancake (Pòsū Bābā)
Baked in traditional clay pots, these pancakes come in both sweet and savory flavors. The essence of this snack lies in its "crispiness." Freshly baked Xizhou pancakes have a golden, shiny exterior that is truly "crisp enough to crumble." Inside, they are soft, delicate, and rich in layers. It is said that the most famous local brand, Yang’s Fuxing Crispy Pancake, was already well-known during the Qing Dynasty’s Guangxu era. Passed down to this day, it has become one of Xizhou’s iconic culinary symbols.
Transportation:Take a minibus to Xizhou from either Dali Ancient Town or Xiaguan. These buses run along the Yunnan-Tibet Highway and stop on signal; the fare is5-8yuan. The journey from Xiaguan to Xizhou takes1hours, and it's possible to make a day trip.
Shuanglang
The ancient town of Shuanglang is located in the northeastern part of Dali City, on the northeastern shore of Erhai Lake. It is flanked by Luoshiqu to the north and Lianhuaqu to the south, with the two islands of Jinsuo and Yujǐ embracing the area between the two bays—hence the name--Shuanglang.Within Shuanglang, the water and sky blend seamlessly, while rolling green mountains and shimmering lake views complement one another. The Jinsuo weaving patterns,"the two islands and two bays,"along with the elegant and quaint Bai ethnic town, create a harmonious natural picture of humans and nature. It is one of the most livable towns and is known as""The beauty of Dali lies in Cangshan and Erhai; the beauty of Cangshan and Erhai lies in Shuanglang.""its great reputation.
Food: Spicy and Sour Fish
People in Shuanglang love fish, and this is the birthplace of Dali’s famous spicy and sour fish. The dish is prepared in a uniquely local way: several fish are placed in a pot along with some dark plums, a sprinkle of salt and chili powder, and cooked alongside potato and radish slices. The resulting fish is spicy, numbing, salty, and fragrant—perfectly flavorful and very appetizing. Even those not used to spicy food often find themselves unable to resist having a few extra bites.
Transportation:You can take a bus to Shuanglang from Xiaguan North Long-Distance Bus Station. Buses run every40minutes, with a fare of15yuan, and take70minutes to reach Shuanglang. The first bus departs at8:40, and the last bus departs at17:30If there are many passengers, the last bus may be delayed until18:00or so.

When visiting Dali, don’t let the somewhat outdated ancient city limit your adventures.

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