Hangzhou Baopu Taoist Temple

Hangzhou Baopu Taoist Temple

On the picturesque northern shore of West Lake in Hangzhou, Zhejiang, there lies a small hill called Geling. The hill is named after Ge Hong, a renowned Taoist priest from the Eastern Jin Dynasty who practiced alchemy and Taoism here. It is said that Ge Hong often gathered herbs on this mountain to treat the illnesses of local people, and he would place elixirs in the wells so that those who drank from them would not contract seasonal diseases. He also opened up mountain paths to facilitate travel for pedestrians, doing many good deeds for the local residents. As a result, the hill where he lived came to be known as Geling, and a “Ge Xian Ancestral Hall” was built to enshrine him. During the Yuan Dynasty, the temple was destroyed in war. It was rebuilt during the Ming Dynasty and renamed “Ma’nuo Mountain Retreat.” In the Qing Dynasty, further renovations were carried out, and it was renamed “Baopu Taoist Temple” in honor of Ge Hong’s Taoist name “Baopuzi,” which has been in use ever since.

Starting from the shore of West Lake and approaching the foot of Geling, you will first see a yellow, brick-and-stone archway. Passing through the archway and ascending the steps, you will soon arrive at the main gate of Baopu Taoist Temple. The courtyard walls outside the gate undulate along the mountain terrain, resembling a coiling golden dragon—hence it is called the “Dragon Wall,” one of the scenic highlights of the temple.

The main hall of Baopu Taoist Temple is the Geshen Hall, dedicated to the worship of Immortal Ge (Ge Hong). To the east of Geshen Hall are the Hongmei Pavilion, Baopu Cottage, and Banxian Hall, all exquisitely designed and typical examples of southern-style Chinese courtyard architecture. The Hongmei Pavilion features woodcut murals, among which the story of the opera “Li Huiniang” is particularly eye-catching. Banxian Hall was once a place where Jia Sidao, the chancellor of the Southern Song Dynasty, indulged in pleasure, but today it houses a statue of the Compassionate Vessel (Cihang Zhenren). Around the temple, you can also find historic sites such as the Geshan Hermitage Stele, Shuangqian Spring, Alchemy Well, Alchemy Terrace, and Chuyangtai (First Sunrise Terrace). The Geshan Hermitage Stele, erected during the Ming Dynasty’s Wanli era, uses concise brushwork and fluent language to recount Ge Hong’s life story, his arrival and establishment of an hermitage for alchemy, as well as the construction of temples through the dynasties and their worship rituals. The Shuangqian Spring in the temple courtyard produces sweet-tasting water, and legend says drinking it regularly may prolong life. At the summit of Geling is Chuyangtai, a stone-built viewing platform that offers a fantastic spot to watch the sunrise. When the morning sun first rises and you climb to the terrace, the sky resembles a crimson ribbon, the sun a huge golden disc, and the sea shimmers with radiant hues—a truly spectacular view. Ancient people referred to this sight as the “Morning Glow of the Eastern Sea.” Beneath Chuyangtai lies the Alchemy Terrace, where Ge Hong set up his furnace to practice alchemy. Nearby is the Alchemy Well, used by Ge Hong for his alchemical work. The water is crystal clear and does not dry up even during prolonged droughts. Legend has it that the water in this well flows over the stones with a reddish hue, and the longer visitors gaze at it, the more the water seems to overflow—but it recedes when they leave. Its depth is said to connect with the rivers and seas.