South Lake in Zhouzhuang

South Lake in Zhouzhuang

This is a large lake on the southern edge of Zhouzhuang Town, commonly known as South Lake or Nanbai Pond, which also forms the boundary with Wujiang. The lakeside is lush with trees and bamboo, offering a tranquil environment. The water is crystal clear and teeming with fish and shrimp. It serves both as a natural reservoir and fish farm, as well as a rare scenic spot. The scenery of South Lake is delightful in all seasons, with the moonlit nights in autumn being particularly enchanting. When the golden autumn breeze blows and the bright moon hangs high, the lake surface shimmers in patches of green and gold, embodying the poetic imagery of “mist clearing to reveal a boundless sky, the bright moon shining for miles, shimmering light leaping like gold, and still reflections sinking like jade.”

According to the *Zhouzhuang Town Annals*, South Lake was originally named Zhangshi Fish Lake, named after the Western Jin Dynasty literatus Zhang Han who resigned from office and returned to his hometown. Zhang Han, courtesy name Jiying, was a literary figure and calligrapher of the Western Jin Dynasty, originally from Er Tu Port south of Zhouzhuang Town (near South Lake). The *Book of Jin* describes him as having “refined talent, skilled in writing, yet unrestrained and unconventional.” In the first year of the Yongning era of Emperor Hui of Jin (301 AD), when Sima Tong, the Prince of Qi, was serving as regent, Zhang Han held the position of Eastern Clerk of the Grand Marshal. At that time, due to political corruption and widespread chaos, Zhang Han, wishing to avoid potential disaster, cited the arrival of the autumn wind and his longing for his hometown’s wild rice, water shield soup, and perch as reasons to resign from his post in Luoyang and return home. He fished and wandered around South Lake in Zhouzhuang, distancing himself from worldly affairs and living a leisurely and peaceful life. People wondered why he would give up such a good official position. He replied, “The greatest joy in life is to follow one’s heart—how can I be bound to an official post thousands of miles away just for the sake of a drink?” This anecdote is known as the “Longing for Water Shield and Perch.”

Zhang Han left behind dozens of writings, scattered in collections such as *Yiwen Leiju*, as well as poems like *Ode to Returning to One’s Birthplace*, *Ode to Bean Soup*, *Ode to a Cane*, and *Song of the Autumn Wind*. His prose style was unique and his writing fluid. His poetic line “yellow flowers scatter like gold” was even used as an imperial examination topic during the Tang Dynasty. Li Bai once remarked, “Zhang Han’s golden lines have graced the world for five hundred years.” Ouyang Xiu also wrote of him: “His refined verses rival those of the greats of the Jiangdong region; his sorrowful words of reclusion are hard to fully grasp. Homesickness suddenly arises with the autumn wind, with white clams, water shield, and sliced perch soup.” White clams, water shield, and sliced perch soup are specialties of Zhouzhuang, and their delicious flavors can still be savored today.

After Zhang Han, Tang Dynasty poets Liu Yuxi and Lu Guimeng also once lived and fished by South Lake. There was also a Buddhist temple by the lake originally called Qingyuan Hermitage, which housed the Temple of Lord Liu. It was built to commemorate the poet and statesman Liu Yuxi.

When Liu Yuxi served as Prefect of Suzhou, he showed great empathy for the people and accomplished many good deeds. In the fifth year of the Dazhong era (831 AD), Suzhou suffered a severe flood, leading to poor harvests. He opened the granaries and distributed 120,000 bushels of rice to relieve the starving populace, while also exempting taxes and corvée labor, easing the disaster and earning the deep affection of the people. Soon after, Liu Yuxi was demoted. He chose to “wander leisurely and enjoy the sights,” arriving at the water town of Zhouzhuang and staying by South Lake for a time. After he left, the local people converted his residence into a Buddhist temple, namely Qingyuan Hermitage. Although a memorial hall should have been built for Liu Yuxi, legal restrictions of the Tang Dynasty required imperial approval for such structures. Considering that Liu had recently fallen out of favor with the court and approval was unlikely, they opted for a workaround: they revered Liu as a “Buddha” and built this temple.

Qingyuan Hermitage was destroyed by fire several times but was continuously restored. By the Qing Dynasty, centuries later, the old Tang restrictions no longer applied, and a dedicated room was established within Qingyuan Hermitage as the Temple of Lord Liu. The South Lake Garden, built using the natural scenery and historical sites along the lakeside of the ancient town, has made the South Lake scenic area a wonderful destination for visitors.

Covering 54 acres with a built-up area of 6,300 square meters, South Lake Garden is divided into four themed zones: Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter. The Spring and Summer zones feature landscape gardens centered around a lotus pond, with the Lake-Viewing Tower, the Lakeside Pavilion, and the Zigzag Bridge built along the pond, while the Wave-Riding Stone Boat faces the water, presenting the classic charm of a classical garden—tranquil and elegant. In spring, the willows by the pond sway gently, and flowers bloom in profusion; in summer, the lotus pond glows with red blossoms and emerald leaves, while golden carp leap in the water. The Autumn zone is characterized by classical-style architecture, integrating halls, pavilions, terraces, and rockeries, exuding a rich traditional ambiance. Among them, the Thinking-of-Perch Hall and Jiying Studio were built to commemorate Zhang Han, while the Guesthouse of Lord Liu and the Mengde Pavilion were constructed to honor Liu Yuxi, replacing the original Temple of Lord Liu. The Winter zone centers around Quanfu Temple, featuring religious-themed buildings that highlight the charm of the “Buddhist realm on the water,” attracting numerous worshippers.

Today, the South Lake Autumn Moon Garden welcomes a new cultural retreat: *Spring River Flower Moon Night – South Lake Guzheng Lounge*. Blending the elegance, refinement, and privacy of a high-end hotel with the interactive, cultural, and personalized service of a traditional inn, it creates a new dimension of leisure and vacation. Built upon the preservation and inheritance of the area’s natural and cultural charm, it offers guests a perfect experience of beauty and relaxation.