Juma River Canyon

Juma River Canyon

In the southern part of Beijing, at the border between Fangshan District and Hebei Province, there lies a winding, crystal-clear canyon river called the Juma River. The steep cliffs and towering peaks on both sides of the river make this picturesque area famous for its unique karst landform—it is the largest karst peak forest canyon in North China. The scenic area combines the grandeur of northern landscapes with the soft beauty of southern waterways and lotus blossoms, earning it the nickname “Little Guilin of the North.”

The upper section of this canyon within Beijing’s boundaries is known as the “Shidu Scenic Area,” while the part that extends beyond Beijing into Laishui County, Hebei Province, is called the “Yesanpo Scenic Area.” Traveling downstream along the river in Yesanpo, you’ll encounter a series of attractions known as the “Eight Scenic Spots of Xiazhuang”: “Stone Monkey Playing in the Water,” “Stone Gate Suddenly Opens,” “Cliffside Plank Walk,” “Heavenly Bridge Arching,” “Sand Python Blocking the Road,” and “Stone Lek Tethering Post,” among others. These sites captivate visitors with their diverse and stunning peaks, idyllic pastoral scenery, and moving legends, forming a breathtaking corridor of natural beauty rich in poetic charm that attracts countless tourists.

In the Juma River scenic area of Yesanpo, you can also enjoy ethnic minority performances by groups such as the Miao, Dong, Mosuo, Lisu, Derung, and Aini, visit traditional minority dwellings, and even spend a night in a local minority home.

Along the banks of the Juma River, you can ride a horse while admiring the picturesque scenery, then relax at a riverside farmhouse restaurant to sample local specialties like grilled fish and lamb skewers.

Route

To explore the Juma River Canyon by car, take National Highway 108 or the Beijing–Shijiazhuang Expressway. Exit at Yan Village or Liulihe, then follow Liulihe–Yue Li Road–Yuegezhuang–Yunju Temple Road–Zhou Zhang Road–Zhang Bao Road–Shidu. After visiting Shidu, head south out of Beijing into Laishui County, Hebei Province, where you can continue exploring the Yesanpo Scenic Area. This route features a dense network of roads with a railway running through it. There are no dangerous mountain switchbacks—most of the road follows the gently sloping riverbanks. However, some sections are old, narrow, and uneven. This area has been developed for tourism early on and is quite mature, with numerous accommodations and restaurants ranging from budget to high-end, making dining and lodging very convenient.

Itinerary

This itinerary is a two-day trip. Start by taking the Beijing–Shijiazhuang Expressway and exit at Gaobeidian. Drive northwest for just over two hours to reach the Qing tombs in Yixian County—China’s largest imperial mausoleum complex. Near the Qing tombs is a small reservoir with beautiful scenery, and resorts and upscale hotels have been built around it. Even so, the area remains lightly visited, making it a perfect serene getaway. At the entrance to the tomb area, there are many family-run guesthouses and restaurants. Though the standard double rooms are simple, they come with spacious bathrooms that are clean and comfortable, costing only 30 yuan per person. The courtyards are filled with fresh vegetables, allowing you to enjoy farm-to-table produce for lunch.

From the Qing tombs, head to the Yesanpo Scenic Area in Laishui. The journey from the Qing tombs to Yesanpo covers about 60 kilometers, mostly along mountainous roads with twists and turns, but the road conditions are decent. Along the way, you’ll pass the famous Great Wall pass—Zijing Pass. After driving about 30 kilometers, you’ll arrive at Zijing Pass (located right beside the highway). At first glance, it looks unremarkable, overgrown with weeds and covered in dust, resembling an old farmhouse wall. Only upon close approach can you see the three white stone-carved seal script characters “Zi Jing Guan” (Zijing Pass) above the gate, and a weathered sign below erected by the Hebei Provincial People’s Government, reading “Great Wall of China.” Due to the low number of visitors, there are no fences or ticket booths, and locals have turned the area into a dumping ground. Nonetheless, standing at Zijing Pass and looking out at the surrounding landscape, you can still feel the majestic aura of an ancient battlefield. A clear river winds through the rocky terrain into the deep mountains, and under the breeze, it brings a sense of tranquility. No need to linger here—get back in the car and continue your journey.

After about 30 more kilometers, you’ll enter the Yesanpo Scenic Area, also known as the destination of the Juma River Canyon. As dusk falls, we decide to stay in the central area of Yesanpo—Gougezhuang. Staying with local farmers is very affordable—just 10 yuan per bed. The conditions are good: clean rooms with private bathrooms, showers, and authentic farmhouse meals. At night, Gougezhuang is brightly lit and bustling with activity. Stalls selling tourist souvenirs and fireworks line the streets. Along the riverbank, bonfires are lit everywhere, filling the air with the aroma of grilled meat. Fireworks frequently light up the sky, and their reflections dance on the water along with the lights of homes and the stars, creating a dreamlike atmosphere.

On the second day, we drive back along the canyon riverside road. Towering peaks, cliff walls like painted screens, uniquely shaped rock formations, and jagged stones create a poetic and picturesque scene. Eagle Beak Rock stands fiercely and vividly; Five Finger Cliff and Castle Peak are majestic and imposing; the One-Line Sky, also known as Thousand-Foot Window, is a marvel of nature... Along the way, at the One-Du Water Amusement Park, you can try parachuting or shooting; if you’re feeling adventurous, bungee jumping offers an indescribable thrill. In calmer waters, bamboo rafts are available for leisurely play. You can also stop at any riverside farmhouse restaurant to enjoy delicious grilled fish, lamb, and freshly roasted corn.

Tip: The most thrilling and worthwhile rafting on the Juma River

Yesanpo Langya River Rafting and Beida River Rafting: The Beida River rafting experience takes advantage of the varying currents of the Juma River. It’s an adventure that combines wit, confidence, and courage. Board an inflatable raft and float along the calm waters, chatting and laughing to your heart’s content. As you approach the rapids, the sound of rushing water quickens your pulse. Suddenly, you’re swept downstream, surging through the waves, your heart racing with the churning waters, as if riding the ocean’s fury. You rush forward, with the opposing current splashing toward you. Looking back, you see ripples in the water where fish and shrimp linger, reluctant to leave. The crystal-clear water and emerald-green mountains form a stunning natural painting. Truly, “Green hills need no brush to be eternal art; clear waters need no strings to be timeless music.” Then, another rapid comes—just as one wave subsides, another rises. After the rapids, the water calms again, and you can listen to the flow while admiring the landscape. It’s truly “endless green hills, boundless flowing waters.” Before you know it, you’ve traveled over a kilometer. Throughout the rafting, there’s no need to worry—trained lifeguards ensure your safety. Upon reaching the end, take a vehicle back to the starting point, and the joy of “a carp leaping over the dragon gate” fills your heart.