—Beijing’s spring seems to be blown away by the strong wind all at once, and finally, the wonderful days of summer have arrived. What comes to mind when you think of early summer in Beijing? As the greenery in the mountains gradually deepens, the fiery red smoke trees, which are golden in autumn, have already “quietly” burst into stunning, colorful blossoms. During the peak blooming season of the smoke trees, let’s head together to Youlan Mountain in Zhoukoudian, Fangshan, to find the most beautiful colors of early summer.
The smoke tree blossoms of Youlan Mountain are mainly concentrated in the Pofengling scenic area. As you walk along the winding mountain paths, towering shrubs covered in velvety purple-red flowers come into view. Right now in May, it’s the peak flowering season for smoke trees: above the lush green foliage, faint red clouds, as thin as gauze and as light as mist, drift in and out of sight, while the air is filled with an intoxicating fragrance. When a gentle breeze passes, the pale pink flower clusters sway gracefully, exuding endless charm... From a distance, they resemble countless layers of sheer silk veils swirling through the forest, hence earning the poetic name “smoke trees.” These blossoms, clustered together, give the overall floral shape a hazy outline, adorning the branches with a dreamy, misty spectacle.
People often say that the forest flowers fade too quickly after their spring bloom, but the pale purple, feathery flower stems of the smoke tree are also incredibly beautiful and can remain on the treetops for a long time, lasting until early June. Throughout early summer, Pofengling is enveloped in the fragrance of flowers, as if the Flower Goddess herself lingers, reluctant to leave this place too soon.
And what about you? The whispers of countless blooming flowers in these wild mountains have been buried deep in your heart for far too long.
Nestled within the valley where the smoke trees bloom in harmony are several scattered courtyards. Built with stone walls and shale tiles, the ancient dwellings of deep Youlan Mountain, once meticulously restored, infuse the wild hills with a touch of refined charm:
In late spring, stroll quietly along the “Smoke Trees in Bloom” lanes, find a peaceful spot, pause, hold your breath, and you’ll hear the soft murmurs of the blooming smoke trees.
In early summer, find a shady nook, brew a pot of coarse tea, and sip slowly. Amid the misty floral haze and the lush green mountains, feel the fragrant mountain breezes drifting through the halls. Time seems to stand still in this moment—yet it’s also enough to savor a lifetime over tea.
A brief escape from the city to rediscover long-lost poetry and spiritual belonging—this is what the early summer of Pofengling in Fangshan wants to offer you.
Pofengling is widely praised for its spectacular red smoke tree foliage in autumn, but its blooming smoke tree flowers in early summer remain little known. Precisely for this reason, the people of Huangshandian Village have prepared the “Pofengling Smoke Tree Flower Festival” with great sincerity during this beautiful early summer, showcasing the charm of Pofengling in summer with the most beautiful scenery of early Youlan Mountain to welcome flower admirers from all directions.
Huangshandian Village, located at the foot of Pofengling, is nestled between two mountains and is long and narrow like a peach leaf. It was once called “Taoyekou” (Peach Leaf Mouth). During the Ming and Qing dynasties, it was a source of stone materials for the imperial palaces in the capital. The ancients believed it had excellent feng shui. Historical figures such as former President Cao Kun and the late Qing Dynasty eunuch Li Lianying all built villas in the Youlan Mountain area of Huangshandian Village.
Nowadays, Huangshandian Village is famous for its high-quality heritage homestays: the “Smoke Trees in Bloom” boutique homestay is hidden deep in the ancient village, backed by green mountains and nestled among flowers. Each room has its unique perspective and design features—peaceful and cozy, a serene sanctuary detached from the worldly bustle, where the present is quiet and time flows gently. The “Grandma’s House” rural courtyard is tucked away in a secluded alley, built against the mountain with towering trees. The rural design intentionally preserves the structure and exterior walls of a century-old house, combining rustic elegance with modern artistic flair to exude a hidden luxury. The “Taoye Valley” rural homestay cluster is located on the eastern hillside of Huangshandian Village. From here, you can gaze at the Youlan Mountain scenery. The houses are neatly arranged, the courtyards are spacious, featuring classic wooden structures with modern and luxurious interiors. It’s just a few dozen meters away from Happy Forest BBQ Garden and Drunken Stone Forest.
On Pofengling itself, there’s also the “Cloud Stone Houses” mountain residence complex. Terraced courtyards and sloped roofs cleverly make use of the terrain, hidden among the smoke tree blossoms. Though the stone houses appear simple and natural on the outside, their interiors feature a modern urban lifestyle aesthetic, with extremely thoughtful spatial layouts that are both minimalist and luxurious.
But Pofengling isn’t just about smoke tree flowers and homestays—it offers much more in terms of food and scenery:
For example, Happy Forest, not far from Taoye Valley, is both a scenic area and a barbecue zone. Facing the JiaKuo River and backed by the steep cliffs of the Luanlong Mountains, you can take a walk along the elevated boardwalk by the river.
Another example is Drunken Stone Forest. Its entrance is right at Happy Forest—it’s actually a hiking trail in the Luanlong Mountains, a natural scenic area that doesn’t charge an entrance fee. Once you enter the gate, you’ll see a “One-Line Sky” formed by two towering cliffs. As you climb the steps, bizarre rocks and queer stones are scattered like a maze among the bushes and woods. Hike to the top and overlook the overlapping peaks, with a stretch of clear water in the valley—the JiaKuo River. The small mountain village of Huangshandian straddles the river, long and narrow like a peach leaf.
Then there’s Rose Pavilion, where you can enjoy tea in tranquility and try the signature rose petal pastries made with locally sourced, premium fresh rose petals.
Also worth visiting is Yingfengyu Valley, where free-range oil chickens are raised in fenced woodland areas, taking advantage of the natural mountainous terrain. You can stroll and forage directly in the manor farm, enjoying the fun of nature with your children and family.
With the smoke trees in bloom and beauty filling the windows, in Pofengling, Fangshan, you can witness the most beautiful early summer and listen to the breezes that travel for miles. Many of the worldly distractions simply fade away, stripped of their noise and vanishing without a trace.
Call a few good friends, pour drinks slowly amidst the fragrant mountain woods, and chat leisurely about life—it’s simply delightful. With such fine weather and beautiful scenery, whose courtyard doesn’t hold joyous moments? With the smoke trees in bloom, come to Pofengling to experience the most breathtaking early summer.
%?Attraction Introduction
The Fangshan Pofengling Scenic Area is located at the northern foot of Shangfang Mountain, 52 km from downtown Beijing, and lies 3 km northwest within Huangshandian Village, Zhoukoudian Town, Fangshan District. This is not only the birthplace of the legendary “Peking Man,” but also a site where stone and timber were quarried for the imperial palaces of the Ming and Qing dynasties. It is one of the areas surrounding Beijing with the most rugged peaks and richest vegetation and species diversity. The rural produce, folk residences, and culinary culture of the Youlan Mountain region are also uniquely characteristic of the mountainous countryside in the suburbs of Beijing.
This area is covered with vast secondary forests, predominantly smoke trees, and its fiery red foliage in autumn is beloved by locals. In spring and summer, the smoke trees bloom, creating a spectacle of red smoke and rosy clouds. The smoke tree blossoms of late spring and early summer are truly marvelous. The best viewing period for the 2017 “Pofengling Smoke Tree Flower Festival” is from April 25 to June 15.
Pofengling Scenic Area
Address: Pofengling Scenic Area, Huangshandian Village, Zhoukoudian Town, Fangshan District, Beijing
Group booking phone: 13701286903
Ticket: Adults: 30 RMB/person (off-season: April 1 – September 30) / Adults: 50 RMB/person (peak season: October 1 – November 15) / Children: Free for children under 1.2m, full price for children over 1.2m.
Smoke Tree Flower Festival activity period: April 25 – June 15
Nearby Attractions
Happy Forest BBQ Garden
Introduction: Happy Forest is 2.5 km from Youlan Mountain's Slope Peak Ridge. It's actually a riverside beach nestled among airy poplar woods, serving as both a BBQ area (with bonfire parties in summer) and a scenic spot. Facing the Jiafa River and backed by the towering cliffs of Luanlong Ridge, the forest features many small pavilions, gauze drapes, and bridges over flowing water. There's also a waterfront cliffside trail along the Jiafa River cliffs, and Happy Forest connects to the entrance of the Natural Zui Stone Forest Scenic Area.
Admission: Free
Address: Huangshandian Village, Zhoukoudian Town, Fangshan District, Beijing
Phone: 13911755493
Zui Stone Forest Scenic Area
Introduction: The entrance to Zui Stone Forest is 2.5 km from Youlan Mountain's Slope Peak Ridge and connects to Happy Forest. Passing through a narrow natural mountain gate, you’ll find a purely wild mountain with bizarre rocks. The hiking trail is a 3 km-long canyon.
Admission: Free
Address: Huangshandian Village, Zhoukoudian Town, Fangshan District, Beijing
Phone: 010-60364881
Yingfengyu Valley Rapeseed Chicken Egg Picking
Introduction: The free-range rapeseed chickens are all selected from healthy adult flocks aged 200–320 days, producing high-quality, green rapeseed chicken eggs. The yolks are large, bright yellow, the egg whites are thick, the taste is pure with no fishy flavor, and they can be picked directly from the farm.
Address: Huangshandian Village, Zhoukoudian Town, Fangshan District, Beijing
Phone: 010-60364881, 15011201229
Pofengling Rose Cake House
Introduction: Rose Pavilion uses locally sourced premium fresh rose petals as filling to make distinctive rose cakes. Here you can enjoy tea and taste rose cakes.
Address: Pofengling Scenic Area, Huangshandian Village, Zhoukoudian Town, Fangshan District, Beijing
Phone: 13801031527
Zhoukoudian Site Museum
Introduction: The Zhoukoudian Site Museum is located at the foot of Longgu Mountain in Zhoukoudian, Fangshan District, southwest of Beijing. It is a museum dedicated to ancient human sites. In 1929, Chinese paleoanthropologist Pei Wenzhong unearthed the first complete skull fossil of "Peking Man" at Longgu Mountain, shocking the world. The Zhoukoudian Site is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a National Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit, and a world-renowned archaeological site for ancient humans and vertebrates. It is the birthplace of "Peking Man." It is 13 km from Pofengling.
Admission: 30 RMB
Address: West of Longgu Mountain, Zhoukoudian Village, Fangshan District, Beijing
Phone: 010-69301278
%? Travel Map
Youlan Mountain Red Leaf Festival and Surrounding Distribution Map
%? Local Transportation
The main venue of the Youlan Mountain Cotinus Flower Festival, Pofengling Scenic Area, is 50 km from downtown Beijing. It is connected to Zhoukoudian Town via the county road “XinSi Road” and the provincial road “ZhouZhang Road,” about 17 km in total, making transportation very convenient. Use your phone to navigate to “Pofengling” or “Huangshandian Village” for accurate directions. Bus “Fang 32” connects Zhoukoudian and Huangshandian.
Self-Drive
Self-driving is recommended. Use Baidu Maps on your phone to navigate to “Pofengling Scenic Area” for a convenient and fast trip. Calculating from Liuliqiao as the starting point, it’s 55 km from central Beijing to Pofengling.
Bus
If taking a bus, you can take the Fangshan No. 32 bus to Huangshandian Village Stop, which is right at the entrance to the Pofengling Scenic Area.
The Fangshan No. 32 bus is a public transit line within Fangshan District, Beijing, with its starting point at Zhoukoudian Station and the terminal at Simagou.
First and last bus times:
Simagou – Zhoukoudian Passenger Transport Station, first and last buses: 05:30–19:30;
Zhoukoudian Passenger Transport Station – Simagou, first and last buses: 05:30–19:30.
%? Local Accommodation
"Huánglú Huākāi" Rural Homestay
Description: The "Huánglú Huākāi" homestays are scattered throughout Huangshandian Village in Fangshan District, Beijing. They line the village’s quiet alleys running from north to south and, along with Grandma’s House, Taoyegu, and Cloud Stone Cottages, belong to the Youlan Mountain Homestay Cluster. When the flame trees (huánglú) bloom around late spring and early summer, their feathery clusters of flowers puff up densely on the branches, looking like red smoke or rosy clouds. From afar, they resemble countless gauzy veils swirling among the trees. This sight has long inspired poets and painters, who likened it to “layered emerald mist seeking old dreams” and “flowers in the fog.” Hence, the name “Huánglú Huākāi” (Flame Tree Blossoms). Each courtyard is renovated from an old village house, featuring exquisitely designed interiors and spatial layouts. While preserving the traditional structure, they blend modern artistic flair with secluded luxury and meet the comfort needs of today’s urban dwellers. With both underfloor heating and air conditioning, there's no need to worry about the cold of northern winters.
Currently, there are 10 courtyards in total — five two-bedroom, three three-bedroom, and two four-bedroom units — accommodating around 80 guests, covering an area of 1,500 square meters.
Room rates: 1,680–4,380 RMB.
Address: Huangshandian Village, Zhoukoudian Town, Fangshan District, Beijing
Phone: 13811600751
"Cloud Stone Cottages" Mountain Homestay
Description: The Cloud Stone Cottages are located within the Pofengling Scenic Area and are practically part of the landscape itself. The property consists of ten countryside-style courtyard units, most with exteriors built mainly from stone. Named for their appearance — as the continuous mountain ridges of Pofengling rise lush and layered, seeming to touch the clouds when viewed from the foot of the mountain — these are the “Cloud Stone Cottages.” Interiors are exquisitely decorated, with rustic furniture and thoughtfully arranged furnishings. The oversized, quaint wooden beds are cozy and stable, while peacock-blue patterned curtains and fabrics add a strong rustic charm. Stroll leisurely in the courtyard, read and bask in the sun with your children, and enjoy quality family time. Lean on the railing and take in the mountain views halfway up the slope, surrounded by peaks and endless greenery.
Cloud Stone Cottages currently offers: seven one-bedroom-one-living-room units; two two-bedroom-one-living-room units; and one three-bedroom-one-living-room unit. Bookings are made per entire courtyard.
Room rates: 960–2,980 RMB/day per courtyard
Address: Within the Pofengling Scenic Area, Huangshandian Village, Zhoukoudian Town, Fangshan District, Beijing
Phone: 18511536839
"Grandma’s House" Rural Homestay
Description: Located in Huangshandian Village at the foot of Pofengling, the "Grandma’s House" rural homestay sits against a mountain backdrop with towering trees. Its exterior preserves the structure of century-old houses, giving it a rustic feel, while its thoughtfully designed interiors and spatial layouts offer a modern artistic touch and a sense of secluded luxury. Grandma’s House is just a 10-minute walk from the Pofengling Scenic Area. The entire property has six guest rooms across four courtyards — two large and two small — making it suitable for gatherings of friends, corporate team-building, or family holidays with multiple generations. Sit under the old locust tree, soak up the sun, gaze at the stars and moon, and find moments of true peace and tranquility.
Room rates:
A. Per-courtyard rental: Weekdays — West Courtyard 1,580 RMB/day; East Courtyard 2,180 RMB/day; Main Courtyard 2,280 RMB/day; Back Courtyard 1,980 RMB/day; Weekends — West Courtyard 1,980 RMB/day; East Courtyard 2,580 RMB/day; Main Courtyard 2,680 RMB/day; Back Courtyard 2,380 RMB/day.
B. Entire courtyard rental: Weekdays 7,880 RMB/day; Weekends 8,980 RMB/day.
Maximum occupancy per full courtyard: 12 adults and 6 children.
Meals: Booking includes complimentary organic vegetarian breakfast & dinner, plus afternoon tea in the countryside.
Address: Huangshandian Village, Zhoukoudian Town, Fangshan District, Beijing
Phone: 13701286870
"Taoyegu" Rural Homestay
Description: Taoyegu is another group of rural homestay courtyards located east of Huangshandian Village. It consists of nine courtyards situated at the foot of Youlan Mountain and below the chaotic Long Ridge, facing the Jiakuo River. Lifting your eyes, you’ll see the fiery red maple leaves of Youlan Mountain in autumn, and it’s just a few dozen meters from Happy Forest Barbecue Garden and Drunken Stone Forest. The courtyards are spacious, the houses neat, and the traditional wooden structures are matched with modern, luxurious interiors. Each courtyard can accommodate 6–15 people. There are also several persimmon trees in the courtyards, their bright red fruits quietly hanging from sparse branches — perfect for bringing kids to explore the mountains or for casual meals and gatherings.
Room rates: Weekdays 1,680–4,480 RMB/day per courtyard; Weekends 2,180–4,980 RMB/day per courtyard
Address: Huangshandian Village, Fangshan District, Beijing, approximately 2 kilometers from the Pofengling Scenic Area
Meals: Breakfast included with room booking
Booking hotline: 13701286871
%? Local Cuisine
Red Back Basket Restaurant
Features: Located within the Pofengling Scenic Area, the Red Back Basket Restaurant is named after the movie *The Red Back Basket* that was filmed here. It serves authentic farm-style home cooking. The vegetables and fruits are all grown in the mountains, naturally grown and pollution-free, offering a taste distinct from city produce. The rustic cooking skills of the local aunties seem to create a magical synergy with the environment.
Recommended dishes: Hand-pulled noodles made on-site, “Green Threads with Soybeans in a Fragrant Bowl,” wild vegetable buns, freshly ground soy milk—delicious and affordable; tofu feast, rich in flavor and perfect with rice.
Price: Around 40 RMB per person
Address: Within the Pofengling Scenic Area, Huangshandian Village, Zhoukoudian Town, Fangshan District, Beijing
Phone: 13718290717 / 13693030422
Happy Forest Barbecue Garden
Features: Cross the stream, walk across the suspension bridge—within the open space among the airy poplar woods, “Happy Forest” serves both as a scenic spot and a dining area. It features small pavilions, gauzy drapes, and charming bridges over flowing water. In addition to à la carte dining, the scenic area also offers a barbecue zone where friends and family can gather, cook by themselves, watch the evening sky gradually darken, the night lights grow brighter, and enjoy the gentle mountain breeze as they grill chicken wings that taste surprisingly refined.
Special recommendations: DIY barbecue, dry pot potato slices, iron pot stewed Beijing oil chicken, handmade baked wheat cakes.
Price: Around 60 RMB per person
Address: Huangshandian Village, Zhoukoudian Town, Fangshan District, Beijing
Phone: 13911755493
%? Travel Planning
First Summer Experience with Sumac Flowers – Premium 2-Day Trip for Friends & Families:
Day 1: Drive from downtown Beijing in the morning; it takes about one and a half hours to reach the Pofengling Scenic Area. Enjoy a leisurely hike and admire the beautiful blooming sumac flowers.
Have lunch at “Red Back Basket” to savor pure and clean countryside fare.
Check into a cozy and artistically designed rural homestay in the afternoon (choose from four options: Huilu Kaihua, Yunshang Shiwu, Laolaojia, and Taoyegu—each with a different style; advance booking required) to experience a completely different springtime vibe.
Dinner can be enjoyed at Happy Forest Barbecue for a fun outdoor meal. Return to your private countryside courtyard in the evening for unique family time, or chat and laugh with friends in the living room.
Day 2: Wake up leisurely in the morning, have breakfast, and brew a pot of tea while casually admiring the vibrant sumac blossoms outside the window.
Visit the intoxicating Spring Stone Forest in the morning, or take a stroll along the cliffside plank walkway along the Jiajie River. You can also try the thrilling Via Ferrata rock climbing.
For lunch, head to Pofengling Hotel to enjoy delicious rainbow trout.
In the afternoon, go to Zhoukoudian Town where you can visit the world-famous Peking Man Site Museum. After experiencing the mysterious prehistoric past, you can return home, concluding your splendid spring journey.