It’s like having dinner at a master chef’s home—Taipei’s private kitchen restaurant’s “Crispy-Scaled Horseshead Fish”

Text & photos by /KUNI

(The incredibly delicious crispy-scaled horseshead fish)

Private kitchens have been growing in popularity in recent years, but I’ve never been truly satisfied—until now. There are several reasons for this. For one, some places call themselves private kitchens but don’t feel like one at all. They come off more like confined spaces full of rules and restrictions. These should be places where guests can dine freely and joyfully, yet all I saw was the chef endlessly boasting about their own achievements. The false sense of warmth gave off the vibe of a direct sales awards ceremony. Paying high-end restaurant prices only to get home-cooked level cooking and technique.

Later, I finally found what I was looking for at Wu Yun in Gongguan—an unrestrained dining experience: no menu, just dishes served based purely on your “appetite,” one after another of homemade specialties. Or the upscale Hoshi, a strictly reservation-only private restaurant that lets you relax and unwind. Thanks to the seamless teamwork of the chef, sommelier, front-of-house staff, and patissier, it was an unforgettable culinary journey. However, neither of these is technically a private kitchen—or rather, they’ve never deliberately marketed themselves with that mysterious label.

This time, I joined a group of foodie friends on a whim. We’d heard this was the most talked-about private kitchen lately. With not-too-high hopes, we arrived at a residential alley near the Linguang Station and climbed a long-forgotten staircase to the top floor.

When we walked in, I thought I had the wrong address—it looked like a private residence, even cozier than most friends’ homes. The dining area is actually on the mezzanine floor. The ambiance is simple yet comfortable. As we wandered around, we spotted three “local cats” on the floor. Since my friends were repeat visitors, they had even brought along a short-legged Munchkin cat for company. Everyone seemed to get along famously.

(The mezzanine dining space)

(Three local cats)

(No corkage fee for up to two bottles of wine)

● ETtoday News Cloud reminds you: Don’t drink and drive, and don’t drive after drinking.

(They even let us use some great Riedel glasses)

(The short-legged Munchkin cat my friend brought)

Since our budget was raised to NT$2,400, which included wagyu beef, we went with that tier and also enjoyed the no-corkage policy for two bottles of wine. We started with the tangy sweetness of fresh beetroot and orange juice to awaken our palates, followed by three types of Iberian ham: the rare Cinco Jotas (aka 5J), Joselito Bellota Chorizo, and Joselito Bellota Salchichon. Aside from the 5J, which had a nuanced saltiness, the other two didn’t impress much, and their thickness was uneven—such a pity.

(Beetroot and orange juice)

(Three kinds of Iberian ham and sausages)

Organic king oyster mushrooms wrapped in cheese and then grilled to perfection—pretty good. That’s when I realized Triangle Cat’s service was quite slow, even bordering on glacial. Just as my stomach started growling again, the pan-seared Iberian pork loin finally made its appearance. The top layer was lightly seared with perfect doneness, and the cooking technique was meticulous. Though I’ve always believed Taiwan pork is the best, this imported Spanish version was the most satisfying I’ve had since it first became available.

(Grilled cheese king oyster mushrooms)

(Iberian pork loin)

(Perfectly cooked)

The salad seemed simple but was actually the kind of dish easily overlooked. Today, it was drizzled with olive oil, paired with some sun-dried tomatoes, and the greens were neatly sliced. The best part? It was tossed just right—loose and evenly mixed, which is surprisingly rare. Toward the end, a faint, delicate cheese aroma emerged. Out of curiosity, I asked—and yes, it was blue cheese.

Wild pink clam broth was poured fresh at the table. After a few sips, the broth revealed its umami richness, with mushroom aromas gradually coming through. Finally, the paella arrived, the famous Spanish seafood rice, served in a wide, shallow pan—and they even offered two flavors: squid and saffron. Mixed with crab meat, parts were intentionally dried to create a bit of crunch and a rustic chew, which was a world apart from the delicate bounce of Italian risotto.

(Salad)

(Broth poured fresh into the bowl)

(French consommé with wild pink clams)

(Two types of Spanish seafood paella)

(Intentionally dried spots offer a completely different texture and fun compared to risotto)

(This is the kind of place where even cats want champagne)

The crispy-scaled horseshead fish was the highlight of the day. I’ve had it at many high-end Western restaurants, but rarely have I encountered such excellent execution. Beneath the delicate, non-crunchy crispy scales lay rich, fatty fish flesh. Perhaps the sauce selection didn’t quite match the previous courses or felt slightly repetitive, but the near-perfect doneness was so impressive it was hard to hold back constant exclamations of delight. Each bite was crispy, each bite was smooth, each bite burst with juices and flavor, and each bite left me wishing it wouldn’t end. I kept sneaking glances to see if any of my companions were too full to finish, afraid that if I waited too long to ask for their share, I’d regret it.

(Crispy-scaled horsehead fish)

(Beneath the delicate, non-chewy scales lies rich, fatty fish flesh)

Today’s wagyu was sliced quite generously. The meat wasn’t particularly fine, so it probably isn’t top-grade, but the marbling was smooth and lightly fragrant. Cooked to medium-rare, it had just the right texture—slightly chewy—with thick slices and generous portions that made every bite more satisfying. That’s when I realized someone in our group didn’t eat beef and was given spring chicken instead—such a pity!

(Grilled garlic)

(Very thickly sliced wagyu)

(Mustard seeds)

(Spring chicken)

In the end, Lora brought out a rich cheese cake and finally introduced us to the chef, Will, who hadn’t appeared earlier. The former was warm and delicious, the latter simple, patient, and personable. Will has worked at Forcetta, Abu, and Tutto Bello, and even spent some time at the Spanish Michelin-starred Mirador de Ulia. Hearing this, everything about the solid cooking skills we’d experienced suddenly made sense. There were no unnecessary decorations or formal front-of-house theatrics, no shallow dish names or gimmicks—it felt just like having a meal at a great chef’s home, where you could chat freely. A joyful meal, and a joyful private kitchen.

(Cheese cake and floral tea)

(This cheese cake is spot on!)

Triangle Cat Private Kitchen
Address: Xinyi District, Taipei City

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