Kamakura’s must-visit spot: Enoshima Island – one of the “Jewels of Shonan” among the Kanto region’s top three illuminated landmarks

Text and photos by /Kavanah

When traveling to Tokyo, in addition to the sights within the city, there are also many charming destinations in the Tokyo metropolitan area that draw visitors, such as Nikko Toshogu Shrine, Yokohama, and Kamakura... Among the sights near Tokyo, Kamakura is the most favored by travelers. The city has renowned historical sites like Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine and the Great Buddha of Kamakura, as well as the “Slam Dunk Crossing” that excites anime enthusiasts. Every May and June during the wisteria season, it draws large crowds of pilgrims... But among Kamakura’s many attractions, Enoshima is considered the city’s landmark and symbol.

Enoshima was originally part of the Shonan coastline but became separated from the mainland due to rising sea levels, forming an island accessible only via the beach exposed during low tide. After the Great Kanto Earthquake, the entire island rose and connected to the mainland, allowing people to visit anytime regardless of the tides.

In ancient times, because Enoshima was inhabited in 672 AD by the founder of Japanese Shugendo, En no Gyōja, it was regarded as a sacred site. It wasn’t until the Shinto-Buddhism Separation Edict was issued in 1880 that land on the island could be freely bought and sold. British businessman Samuel Cocking was a pioneer in developing Enoshima; he built a power plant and a botanical garden, gradually turning the island into a popular sightseeing destination near Tokyo.

A distant view of Enoshima, seen from the beach near the “Slam Dunk Crossing” (the “Kamakura Station” stop on the Enoden Railway).

We boarded the Enoden train and got off at the “Shonan-Enoshima” station. It takes about 15–25 minutes to walk from the station to Enoshima.

The weather was nice that day, and you could see Mount Fuji in the distance.

Enoshima is connected to the mainland by a large bridge. The sea breeze was incredibly strong that day—walking on the bridge felt like you might get blown away.

We visited in the afternoon and could watch the sun gradually setting.

Upon arriving at Enoshima, the first thing you see is the Bronze Torii Gate, which serves as the entrance to the island and to the island’s shrine, Enoshima Shrine. The Bronze Torii Gate we see today was rebuilt in 1821 (Bunsei 4).

Many shops on the island serve Enoshima and Shonan’s signature dish: sardine rice bowls.

The Vermilion Torii Gate. The Vermilion Torii Gate we see today was rebuilt and donated in 1936 (Showa 11) by koto player Haruko Hayashi of the Yamada school of koto music.

The “Zuijinmon Gate,” designed to resemble the gate of a dragon palace.

On this day, we headed to the highest point of Enoshima, the Enoshima Observatory. There are two ways to reach the top of Enoshima: walking or taking the elevator. Being as lazy as I am, I naturally opted for the escalator—so much easier. The fare for the escalator varies depending on the distance traveled.

We purchased the “Observatory & Lighthouse SET Ticket,” which includes access to both the escalator and the Enoshima Observatory Lighthouse.

The escalator. It’s impressive how such a convenient tourist facility saves energy and time for lazy folks while also generating income for locals—such ingenuity.

An illustrative map of Enoshima Shrine.

Azumi Shrine.

From here, you can look down on the approach to Enoshima Shrine.

Continuing up the escalator toward the highest point of Enoshima, once you exit the escalator and walk a bit further, you’ll soon see the Enoshima Observatory.

The sunset over Enoshima.

The Chinese-style garden “Haruzawa Garden” located at the Enoshima Observatory.

The garden is full of various beautiful flowers. My mother had a great time admiring and taking photos of them.

The main attraction: the Enoshima Observatory itself.

Every year, the Enoshima Observatory holds a light-up event called “The Jewels of Shonan,” which is one of the Kanto region’s top three illumination events. In 2013, it was even listed as one of Japan’s Night View Heritage sites.

The 2016 “Jewels of Shonan ~ A Festival of Light and Color Illuminating Enoshima” was held from November 28, 2015, to February 14, 2016.
Official website:The Jewel of Southern Japan 2015-2016 ～A Festival of Light and Color Adorning Enoshima Island～

The full name, "Enoshima Sea Candle," refers to a very youthful lighthouse-like structure that was built in 2002 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Enoden Railway. The Enoshima Sea Candle was completed in 2003 and opened on April 29 of the same year, becoming a landmark of Enoshima Island.

The view from inside the observation deck.

After descending from the observation deck, the nighttime illumination of the Enoshima Sea Candle shines even more brilliantly against the night sky.

Walk back to the "Enoshima" Station to catch a train back to Kamakura.

Kavana @ Kyoto – Free Stay.

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