Surrounded by 50 enthusiastic cats—cat paradise on Japan’s Naoshima Island

Text and photos by Claire, excerpted from “Crossing Borders: Island-Hopping in Japan—Exploring the Setouchi and Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennales: 50 Masters × 70 Works, Discovering the Design Landscapes of International Artists,” published by Mountain Culture Publishing

The happiness and melancholy of being surrounded by cats

Japan has many small islands known as “cat islands,” and about half of the well-known ones are located in the Seto Inland Sea. Naoshima is one of them—a place where cats outnumber humans. But unlike other tourist cat islands, although it once gained attention thanks to renowned cat photographer Mitsuaki Iwago, Naoshima has not attracted large numbers of visitors because of these feline residents.

The feline army of Naoshima doesn’t appear near the busy Naoshima Port, but once you step into the village or head toward the “Moving Ark,” the cats that follow you aren’t just a few—they number around 30 to 50. When you’re completely surrounded by these whiskered companions, you can fully enjoy the bliss of feeling like the center of their universe. Perhaps sensing the possibility of food, the cats stick closely, occasionally rubbing against you—it’s like having extremely dedicated “tour guides.” But during my first visit to the island, I hadn’t brought any food for the cats, nor were there shops where I could buy pet supplies, which left me feeling quite guilty. Aside from petting them and taking photos, there was little I could do for their hunger.

Unlike famous cat islands that have cat lovers managing the felines—setting up feeding stations, arranging regular vet visits, and even registering the cats—Naoshima’s cats are mostly left to roam free. Islanders occasionally feed them, but for the rest of the time, they’re left to live and die naturally. Although it’s a form of coexistence, the sight of aging cats alongside elderly residents inevitably brings a touch of melancholy. Fortunately, Japan is a nation of cat lovers, so even though the cats on Naoshima are unmanaged, no one teases or abuses them.

If possible, consider buying some cat food in Takamatsu before coming to the island to feed the cats. But remember not to overfeed them, distribute the food evenly, and clean up afterwards to avoid upsetting their stomachs.