Tainan Xishu Old Street Cultural & Creative Market – Grandma’s Popular Mini Fish Buns & Milkfish Head Buns

Text & Photos /Kuma

Opposite Tainan’s Golden Coast lies Xishu Community, a delightfully named neighborhood that carries on the legacy of a small fishing village. Nowadays, it’s famous for Grandma’s handcrafted mini fish buns.

Within Xishu Old Street, there are creative ideas and an arts hub. The old red-brick walls are adorned with nostalgic murals, making this “Xishi Market” full of fun, warmth, creativity, and vintage charm.

The yellow building is Xishu Library. In front of it stands a sculpture representing the former Chezailiao site marked on the old street map, showcasing how residents used to travel to the nearby city of Fucheng. Across from the library is the entrance to Xishu Old Street.

The red iron sculpture entrance combines the name “Xishu” with the liveliness of “festive gatherings.” Inside, you’ll find cultural creations, art, and delicious food – a truly local old street experience.

A map of Xishu Old Street is available at the red iron sculpture entrance. The street is very visitor-friendly, with maps and signs placed at every entrance and corner, so you won’t get lost or miss any attractions.

After passing through the cheerful entrance, you’ll see a colorful mural of fish swimming underwater – on a hot day, it really makes you want to dive in and cool off.

Here you can also see a hibiscus painting, referred to on the map as “Xishu in Bloom,” depicting the scene of hibiscus flowers covering the ground in the old days. The large hibiscus trees, common in Taiwan’s plains and coastal areas, were once planted for windbreaks and shade. Before plastic bags existed, their large leaves were used to wrap rice dumplings during Lunar New Year, earning them the nickname “dumpling-wrapping leaves.”

Further in, the alleys are lined with themed markets. Strolling along feels like a treasure hunt. Xishu Old Street is well organized – aside from its own T-shirts, even the stalls and sunshades are uniformly neat and uniquely designed.

Right at the entrance, you’ll first pass Grandpa’s fish stall, which also sells creative fish-shaped bags in various styles. You can also buy canvas pencil cases to paint yourself. Grandma’s mini fish buns are located near the colorful painting at the old-fashioned grocery store.

The old-fashioned grocery store mural revives the memory of the now-closed store in a unique way. Every item in the painted store brings back nostalgia.

Aside from the guide maps, there are also explanations at each spot, helping visitors better understand the stories behind them.

In bamboo trays are Grandma’s best-selling mini fish buns. The realism is so striking it feels like you’re picking fresh fish at a market – there are all kinds of fish. This once-seaside fishing village has transformed into a creative market selling fish-shaped snacks, a new way to carry on its heritage.

Isn’t it lifelike? Unfortunately, there were too many visitors lining up for the limited-edition milkfish head buns that day, plus a Hong Kong media crew was doing interviews, crowding the narrow alley. I couldn’t get a good photo – and sadly, the bear really wanted one. There were also cute animal-shaped buns, cartoon characters, and other fun designs that would’ve made anyone smile.

This week’s limited-edition milkfish head coin purse is thick, super realistic, and incredibly lifelike. It sold out quickly after going on sale, but you can still register for pre-orders if you missed it.

Next to Grandma’s creative fish buns is a bamboo toy experience area where you can try traditional children’s toys.

The bear loved the “chicken pecking rice” toy the most – swing the little ball underneath, and the chicken bends down to eat, so vivid and adorable. I bought one to keep. Old things always carry warmth and a sense of everyday life.

At Xishu Performance Hall, you can admire the architectural style of old houses and the beauty of time. Decorated with greenery, mosaic art, and cat-themed installations, the space brings the old building to life.

Holding a guide map and wandering through the alleys, you can feel the new vitality of this old community.

Walk further to the other end, passing by the red-bean pancake stall’s mural – another taste passed down through generations.

Further ahead is the “Is Someone Watching Me?” mural, another favorite of the bear’s – it’s so amusing it’ll make you smile. Next to it, a toy stall just happened to have a Powerpuff Girls display, creating a fun contrast.

The “Excuse Me, Cat” installation art showcases the closeness between old houses, alleys, and people. The cat walking on the roof also highlights the charm of traditional Southern Fujian architecture.

Aside from the feline installation art, there are also real cats roaming around.

When you’re tired from exploring, try some local Xishu delicacies, like the century-old Ah Yi’s handmade rice-flour balls. The fillings are rich and flavorful, with careful attention to texture and seasoning.

The installation art “Under the Luffa Trellis” recreates the once-common sight of luffa vines in Xishu. During my visit, a big luffa was drying under the trellis, likely for other uses. Here, you can enjoy childhood favorites like bagged frozen mung bean ice and refreshing luffa water – very nostalgic.

Next, you’ll reach another entrance to Xishu Old Street, where there’s a mural about “banquets” (traditional multi-course meals).

The red-brick tin wall is finely painted with scenes of old-style banquet feasts – from the expressions and clothing of the people to the atmosphere and dishes on the table, everything is heartwarmingly nostalgic, perfectly capturing the spirit and liveliness of those gatherings.

By the way, near the parking lot by the “banquet” mural, there are charmingly designed chairs that are both cute and amusing.

Further inside, there’s also painted artwork themed around an “oasis.” Fish follow one after another, with different species and expressions, giving off a sense of the many facets of life.

Additionally, in the levee area, there are colorful murals depicting the lively atmosphere of water activities at Golden Coast and the rustic charm of farm life.

That’s all for this stroll through Xishu Old Street. The outside temperature reached 36°C that day, making it really too hot to stay for long. The parts of the old street we didn’t get to will have to wait for another visit. Though not very large, Xishu Old Street combines cultural creativity and murals, evolving into an art community with local character. It’s not just a place for taking photos—it also offers more opportunities for local interaction, which left Xiong with a deep impression.

In this former small fishing village, fish-shaped buns are all the rage—I hope to get my hands on the ones I want next time.

Xishu Old Street
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Address: Lane 340, Xishu Road, South District, Tainan City

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