[Editor’s Recommendation]Step into Chiang Mai and Return to Simple Nature

Originally published in the December 17, 2015 issue of the Sing Tao Daily under “Global Travel”

Known as the “Rose of the North,” Chiang Mai in Thailand, as the capital of the first independent kingdom in Thai history—the Lanna Kingdom, this ancient mountain city exudes a different vibe from the modern, glitzy capital Bangkok. At Chiang Mai Airport, you won’t see flashy luxury brand stores, but rather shops selling the famous northern Thai sausage delicacy.

While also home to luxurious five-star hotels, why not come to Chiang Mai, nestled at the foot of Thailand’s highest peak, and enjoy the tranquility embraced by mountains, feel the rumble of elephants walking by, listen to the thunder of waterfalls, and experience its natural beauty?

Lanna Traditional Houses

It takes about an hour by car from Chiang Mai Airport to the mountainous Mae Rim area. Along the way, you can stop at the Mon Tawan scenic spot to gaze at the mountain views surrounding Chiang Mai. Though the sun is just as bright, the high-altitude scenery offers a wide, refreshing view with cool breezes, making every breath of air feel fresher. Many Thai tourists even camp here. The journey to the lodge isn’t far, but the path into the deep mountains transitions from smooth asphalt roads to steep mountain trails—about a thirty-minute drive that feels truly thrilling.

The Mon Tawan scenic spot in Chiang Mai offers a wide view, overlooking the terraced fields of Mae Rim surrounded by mountains.

Upon arriving at the campsite, our guide Nid took the time to explain: “For environmental reasons and due to limited supplies on the mountain, we use solar power sparingly. There’s no Wi-Fi, no air conditioning, no hot water for showers, and the temperature varies greatly between day and night—with winter nights dropping as low as ten degrees. Welcome to the mountains!” Used to the pace of city life, I was initially a bit worried about this primitive lifestyle, but seeing the lovely and simple Lanna traditional houses dotting the lush hills of Mae Rim filled me with curiosity instead. We explored every detail of the wooden cabins, trying to understand rural Thai life and culture. Visitors usually share a cabin with two or three others, but in reality, many rural Thai families of ten or more often squeeze into spaces as small as two hundred square feet or even less. There’s no breathtaking ocean view or two-bedroom suites, but you can lie on a Thai-style triangular mat on the balcony at dawn listening to roosters crow, or relax in a hammock at sunset gazing at the starry sky. Perhaps this is why Thai people are so content with life?

The stilted wooden cabins built against the mountain showcase the wisdom of a long-standing lifestyle designed to keep snakes away.

Elephant Conservation Experience

In ancient times, transportation between Bangkok and Chiang Mai wasn’t as developed as it is today, and elephants served as both beasts of burden and transport for the Thai people. Also seen as symbols of prosperity and peace, elephants hold a special place in Thai culture. At the elephant conservation center, there are no so-called “performances” like elephants painting or playing soccer. Our activity was simply riding an elephant. Since our mission was to accompany the elephant to bathe—not to ride it aimlessly in circles—I believe this is the most humane form of tourism. After all, elephants need to bathe once or twice a day anyway. Without heavy saddles putting unnecessary weight on them, and with mahouts not riding too closely, the actual feeling of “riding” on the elephant’s neck is quite unique. Though they may seem to move slowly, when you’re riding one, you truly feel their liveliness. Before long, the elephant extended its trunk toward me sitting on its neck, and I handed it the banana prepared earlier. After it ate, it flapped its ears, and I gently patted its head—as if I could feel its joy.

Under the setting sun, the mahouts at the elephant conservation center led the elephants to the river to play and bathe.

As we neared the river, the elephants quickened their pace. The bumpy road became even more jarring, and the elephants eagerly plunged straight into their natural bathtub—an exhilarating rush that reminded me of a rollercoaster at a theme park. There was plenty of elephant dung in the river, and I realized why they were in such a hurry... Vegetarian elephants don’t produce overly smelly dung, and we jumped off the elephants’ backs into the river to help wash them. They joyfully trumpeted and sprayed us with water from their trunks. If the so-called “lords of creation” can let go of their worries and aggression, they can still live peacefully with nature. Once the elephants had had enough fun, we got back on their backs to return to camp. They felt lighter on their feet after bathing, while we were more exhausted from the effort of balancing on their backs, plus we had another half-hour walk back to camp... But under the golden glow of the setting sun, with a gentle breeze and the picturesque mountain scenery of Chiang Mai, it was truly the perfect antidote for urbanites to leave their troubles behind.

Mountain Hiking

On the second day in the mountains, we set out at eight in the morning for a roughly six-hour hiking trip. With not much entertainment on the mountain, a good night’s sleep left us energized, and we started off at a brisk pace, leading the group. Nid pulled me back and said, “Jaiyanyan (which means ‘calm down’ in Thai), do Hong Kong people always walk so fast? Try slowing down and appreciating the scenery along the way.” Perhaps it’s their contented nature, but Thais generally don’t walk fast. And in Chiang Mai, under the relatively cool climate and laid-back atmosphere, their pace is even slower... Along the way, Nid introduced us to wild fruits and plants, and brought us to a village of the Hmong hill tribe—who migrated from China to the Thai mountains in the 18th century and have their own dialect—to learn about their culture.

The Hmong hill tribe in Thailand make a living mainly by selling handmade traditional clothing, and they’re used to seeing visitors.

By noon, after four hours of hiking, we were exhausted and arrived at the waterfall restaurant—not a fancy eatery, but a small wooden shack built by locals next to the falls. After a simple meal, the best way to cool off under the scorching sun was to step into the cave beneath the waterfall and soak our feet in the icy water, listening to the roaring cascade. A moment of meditation helped us regain composure before continuing on. On the way back to camp, passing through the Mae Rim terraces, though not as grand as the Longji terraces in Guilin, the peaceful mountain setting and encounters with farmers’ free-roaming white cows were enough to refresh our minds and lift our spirits.

A fallen tree trunk perfectly lodged in the waterfall is nature’s masterpiece.

Thai people have a strong sense of community, and even young guides like Nid help cook during lunch at the restaurant.

The distance between people has always been so close, yet so far. Ironically, in this age of information overload, when experiencing traditional Thai mountain life in Chiang Mai, everyone loses interest in scrolling through their phones. Instead, we embrace simplicity, gathering with flashlights in the main building of the camp to boil water, cook, chat, sing, and rediscover the beauty of a simple, natural life.

Links:Chiang Mai Local Tours