"j After passing through the last tunnel, what greets you is that beautiful town,
Coming here because you believe there is hope, wanting to know everything about you."k
"j MAX and KiHa 315 – NGT48"k
Taking the Shinkansen for two hours from Tokyo, you arrive at the largest city on the Sea of Japan side:Newo_.Newo_is also known as the "Snow Country," often blanketed in thick snow in winter. As one of the five open ports in the Treaty of Amity and Commerce between Japan and the United States signed in the late Edo period, Newo_ takes pride in enduring such harsh conditions despite harboring a sense of shame over its past.The Joetsu Shinkansen, which connects Tokyo and Newo_, is mainly operated by E2 and E4 series trains, with train formations named "Toki," after the rare bird species native to Newo_—
the crested ibis.The E4 series is one of the few remaining double-deckerShinkansen trains still in operation,with the prefix "MAX" added to the name for distinction.Though they look quite unique, their comfort is lacking, and there are plans to retire them in the future.Summer in Newo_ is cool, much like many cities along the Sea of Japan, with sunlight shining down accompanied by refreshing breezes. The visit happened to be just after a typhoon had passed, and the stable high-pressure weather made photography very convenient. Walking aroundthe streets of Newo_, although not crowded, the well-planned roads and neat shopping streets offer pedestrians a comfortable walking experience.The central area of Newo_ mainly stretches alongNewo_
?, Bandai City,,
all the way to the Kuranomachi district on the opposite bank of the Shinano River. In the past,Newo_ City had private railway lines, but after the rail line was discontinued in 1999, city transportation has been handled by buses; therefore, bus stops in front of the station often see people waiting for rides. However, seeing how buses meet the commuting needs of residents, fewer people use bicycles or private cars, which is relatively rare in urban areas of Japan.Located to the east ofNewo_, Hakusan Shrine isall the way to Furumachi on the opposite bank of the Shinano River.In Niigata City, there used to be private railways operating, but after the rail line was discontinued in 1999, bus services took over urban transportation. As a result, you’ll often see people waiting at the bus stops in front of the station. Yet, despite buses adequately meeting commuters’ needs, few people use bicycles or private cars — a relatively rare sight in urban centers in Japan.
Inthe White Mountain Shrine in the eastern part of NiigataThe new town’s central guardian,thissymbolstands as a protector over the entirenew town where the shrine and park blend seamlessly, making it hard to tell at times whether you’re in a leisurely spot or a sacred domain. From another perspective, the shrine and the lives of the citizens seem intertwined—sacred ground shared with the public. This isn’t a natural occurrence but the result of careful human planning.New TownThe opening of the port under unequal treaties left the citizens feelingashamed, but back then, Nanmoto [Name] worked to erase thatshameby renovating canals and roads, installing gas-lit street lamps, and developing Shirayama Park; striving to transform New Town into a modern, well-disciplined city rather than one dominated by foreigners. To this day,New Town residents can proudly say these achievements were built through their own efforts, not external changes.New TownNew Towners can still take pride in saying these developments stem from their own hard work, not outside influence.
Thanks to the fine weather, that day we were treated to a stunning sunset at Tsuru Messe, with the glow from across the Sea of Japan reflecting off the lights of New Town Island; on the other side, the winding curves of theShinano River could also be seen.The view from the Tsuru Messe observation deck is truly captivating, and since admission is completely free, it ranks among the top experiences I’ve had during recent visits to Japan.
Some places may have many attractions, but you still can’t quite warm up to them; others may not have many sights, yet leave you enchanted. New Town is probably the latter—a beautiful city, and if given the chance, I’d love to see it in another season.
Original location: Late Summer Journey Through Eastern Japan (Part 2), New Town · Shirayama
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Fai Redefined
A person who loves nightscapes.
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