Source：http://www.8a.nu/articles/ShowArticle.aspx?ArticleId=6070
Submitted by：www8anu Date：2009-12-11
Translator： tethys (Contact the translator: tethys2006++gmail.com, replace ++ with @)
Dave Graham explains at his new home in Ticino, Switzerland, why he is reassessing the grades of completed routes and has downgraded some of the hardest boulder problems:
8a.nu supports this idea and agrees that it was brave of Dave to be so transparent. Sometimes route grades are like the emperor’s new clothes, and we should realize that when Dave downgrades his completed climbs, he is actually falling behind in the rankings. The 8a scorecard is just a game and not a true measure of ranking — but it is a great motivator for climbers!
“In the climbing community, we shouldn’t be too naive. The media has a big influence on the grades that climbers obsess over. The 8a.nu website heavily influences the only commonly accepted grading system among climbers. Are we climbing boulder problems at 8c or 9a? How are we completing them? Do we really understand this group that defines itself through difficulty grades? In this group, do we feel justified in our abstract understanding of the newly defined high-end grades?
I think the media in recent years has placed even more emphasis on the importance of grades than the efforts within the climbing community itself. Capital, money, ‘fame’… these elements are real in the world we live in, and they do come with an impact.
Grades will never be the most exciting gift that climbing has to offer. Their importance is actually quite low. From an artist’s perspective, the thrill and rewards from chasing grades can’t compare to the real experiences that climbing provides.
As my climbing experience has grown, my understanding of route grades has also changed a lot. I’ve learned how to compare personal experiences and infer their relevance. Being part of this community is fascinating — I can observe how everyone gets drawn in, which helps me understand what makes something challenging, or how different people’s experiences truly are.
I’ve changed some of the grades on my scorecard because I believe they are incorrect. They don’t align with my current understanding and perception of difficulty. It’s not a big deal to me. They’ve been too influenced by other climbers. I just share information based on my own feelings. This is my personal conclusion drawn from analysis and comparison. My own definition.
So, these updated grades are just mine — not the official grades, not the world’s grades. I don’t want to upset anyone. I just want to try to climb truly hard routes. Maybe eventually 8c, real 8c. Climbing is the most amazing thing. It’s fascinating and full of possibilities.”
