Why should you wear a climbing-specific helmet for mountaineering and rock climbing? Helmets made for mountaineering and climbing in Europe and America must meet the standards of the European Union (CE) and/or UIAA. In Europe, the European Union requires all helmets sold on the market to pass CE standard testing. In the United States, although there is no corresponding mandatory regulation by the government, due to market competition and legal considerations, virtually all climbing helmets sold in the U.S. have passed CE and/or UIAA standard inspections. UIAA refers to the authoritative international mountaineering organization, the Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme. EN12492 is the European Union (CE) standard for climbing helmets, while the UIAA’s corresponding standard (UIAA Standard 106) is based on the CE standard but is slightly stricter.
The CE and UIAA standards consist of four criteria, which are briefly introduced as follows:
1. Direct Impact Test: A 5-kilogram blunt object (with a 5-centimeter radius) is dropped freely from a height of 2 meters onto the top of the helmet. The impact force on the dummy’s (wooden) neck must be less than 8 kilonewtons (UIAA standard); it must be less than 10 kilonewtons (CE standard). One kilonewton is approximately equal to 100 kilograms of force (9.8 Newtons = 1 kgf). In other words, the impact force on the dummy’s neck must be less than 800 kilograms of force (UIAA standard) and less than 1000 kilograms of force (CE standard).
2. Side Impact Test: At a 60-degree angle to the vertical direction (top of the head), tests are conducted from the front, both sides, and the back. A blunt object is dropped freely from a height of 50 centimeters, and the impact force on the dummy’s neck must be less than 8 kilonewtons (UIAA standard) and less than 10 kilonewtons (CE standard).
3. Penetration Test by Sharp Objects: A 3-kilogram conical object (with a 0.5-millimeter tip) is dropped freely from a height of 2 meters, and the helmet must withstand at least one such impact. The helmet is allowed to be damaged, but the sharp object must not come into direct contact with the scalp.
4. Stability Test (also called the front-back displacement test): A 10-kilogram weight is dropped onto the helmet from the front and the back separately, and the helmet must still remain securely on the dummy’s head (the angle of movement of the helmet after being struck is recorded during the test).
Please note the first two test criteria where the sensor measures the impact force on the neck. This indicates that the helmet is required not only to resist impact but also to absorb kinetic energy and reduce the impact—similar to how a dynamic rope functions. The shock-absorbing capability of the helmet aims to minimize the impact on the wearer’s cervical spine and vertebrae.
Next, please note the third criterion. Although this is a one-time “pass/fail” test, a high-quality climbing helmet (such as HB’s Dyneema) can withstand up to 10 such impacts. Durability is especially valuable during prolonged high-altitude climbs or big wall climbing. Unlike typical recreational climbing, if your helmet gets damaged during a climb, you can’t just go back to town and buy a new one that night.
Besides mountaineering and rock climbing, I also ride road and mountain bikes, rollerblade, and go cross-country skiing. I am against using helmets designed for other sports as substitutes for climbing. False security could lead to unexpected consequences. Bicycle and rollerblade helmets will definitely fail the third criterion of climbing helmet standards. Construction site hard hats will certainly not pass the fourth.
Currently, there are three main types of helmets on the market: hard shell, foam, and hybrid. Hard shell helmets are made of high-strength engineering plastics or fiber-reinforced polymers. The advantage is that they are durable and can withstand impacts (you don’t have to worry too much when packing them), but they are heavier. Foam helmets are not actually “soft.” Their advantage is being lightweight, but they are not as sturdy as the hard shell type. Hybrid helmets feature a thin hard shell with a foam lining inside, and their design and feel are more similar to foam helmets.
For your safety, please use a climbing-specific helmet that has passed the European Union and/or UIAA standard inspections.