May 2013 Everest South Slope Trekking & Island Peak Climbing Expedition in Nepal

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Introduction to Island Peak

Island Peak, locally known as IMJA TSE, is a 6,160-meter peak situated in Nepal’s Khumbu Glacier area (originally measured at 6,189m). It is surrounded by massive glaciers such as the Lhotse Glacier (Lhotes Gl.), Lhotse Shar Glacier (Lhotes Shar Gl.), and Imja Tse Glacier (Imja Tse Gl.). Viewed from afar, it resembles an island floating in a sea of ice—hence the name "Island Peak." Its local name is Imja Tse. It was first climbed in 1953 by Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, who summited Everest for the first time, along with several British team members, while testing oxygen equipment prior to the official Everest ascent. Due to its proximity to the Everest South Base Camp, convenient access, and a manageable altitude of just over 6,000m, it's an achievable challenge for most climbers and offers close-up views of nearby peaks towering at seven to eight thousand meters.

Island Peak is classified as a 6,000m trekking peak (entry-level mountain). Technically, the route is not highly demanding. Above the high camp, the entire journey is on snow, with occasional mixed snow and rock sections. Near the summit, there are several extremely steep slopes, including one that exceeds 80 degrees and is nearly vertical. Participants must be proficient in snow travel and ideally skilled in techniques such as rock climbing descent, fixed rope climbing, and moving through anchors. Descending is often the most dangerous part, so it’s crucial to know how to use ropes for self-belay during the descent.

No high-altitude snow mountain should be underestimated. Participants must prepare thoroughly and choose an experienced leader. We will include training sessions for all necessary climbing skills during the trip.

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Baiyue Outdoor Club is a domestic service brand specializing in adventure tourism, high-altitude mountaineering, mountaineering training, canyoning training, and rock climbing training. Since organizing high-altitude snow mountain expeditions in 2008, it has successfully completed 48 group mountain climbing activities.

We are passionate about providing premium outdoor adventure services, sharing your love for outdoor sports. Our goal is to deliver an authentic adventure experience that brings joy to both body and mind. Let’s work together to make your dreams come true.

Baiyue Outdoor Adventure Company has a professional team consisting of renowned domestic outdoor coaches, guides, and experts. We design and offer adventure products suitable for all healthy and ambitious individuals. Through safe and comfortable experiences, we enable exploration of nature and self-discovery. In pristine natural environments and through shared “hardship and camaraderie,” we build deep connections and friendships with fellow adventurers.

Explore the mysteries of nature and discover a healthier way of life—welcome to Baiyue Outdoor.

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Participation Requirements:
1. Have high-altitude travel experience and good physical fitness. (Quantified as being able to run 9 km/hour or more.)
2. Participants must be in good health, with no cardiovascular, pulmonary, cerebral, chronic diseases, or other conditions unsuitable for high-altitude activities.
3. All participants must sign the "Island Peak Safety Responsibility Agreement" and will receive a complimentary $300,000 AIG overseas travel insurance policy from Baiyue Outdoor Adventure.

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Planned Itinerary & Climb Arrangement: Group A: Climb Island Peak (6160m), Group B: Trek the EBC Circuit.

Group A Itinerary:
Day 1: 2013/05/01 – Depart from various cities → Chengdu (Kunming, Guangzhou or Beijing) → Kathmandu. Airport pickup, stay in Kathmandu’s Thamel area. Sightseeing in central Kathmandu.

Note: Kathmandu Airport is quite chaotic. The climbing team opts to stay in the Thamel area, a hub for international travelers and the liveliest part of Kathmandu. The streets are filled with folk-religious craft shops and mountaineering gear stores — great for exploring if you have time. The nearby Patan Durbar Square can be visited for 1–2 hours for photos, and you might even spot Nepal’s Living Goddess. Round-trip flights to Lukla must be booked in advance with your passport.

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Day 2: 2013/05/02 – Visit Bhaktapur (as the saying goes, “As long as Bhaktapur exists, Nepal exists” — a must-see). Complete Island Peak climbing formalities.

Note: Depart at 8:00 AM Nepal Time. First, go to the Tourism Office to obtain the trekking permit and entry tickets (fill out the forms in advance in China for quicker processing), then proceed to the Mountaineering Association for registration. Next, visit Bhaktapur (cancellations may occur due to strikes, as transportation would be unavailable).

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Day 3: 2013/05/03 – Kathmandu (1200m) → Fly to Lukla (2800m) → Trek to Phakding (2622m); stay in lodge.

Note: Lukla (2800m), surrounded by the Himalayas, is the gateway to the Khumbu region. Most trekkers to Everest enter via Lukla. The flight from Kathmandu takes about 30 minutes. Without Lukla, the journey requires a 5-day trek from Jiri. This small town thrives on Everest tourism, with stunning snow-capped peaks surrounding it that immediately convey the grandeur of the Himalayas. The short trek to Phakding (about 3 hours) serves as a warm-up hike. From this day onward, altitude acclimatization becomes crucial.

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Note: Get up around 2:00 AM, depart at 3:00 AM. Reach the glacier edge by around 5:30 AM, and the base of the ice wall by about 7:30 AM. Summit Island Peak (6160M) is expected between 10:00–11:00 AM. If there’s enough time, return to the village of Chukhung for rest. If not, rest at the base camp.

Day 11, 2013/05/11, Chukhung to Tengboche; stay at a lodge.

Note: The return journey is easy and the mood is relaxed.
Day 12, 2013/05/12, Tengboche to Phakding; stay at a lodge.
Note: The return journey is easy and the mood is relaxed.

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Day 13, 2013/05/13, Phakding to Lukla; fly to Kathmandu.

Note: The climbing association reports summit achievements, issues summit certificates to successful climbers, and a celebration party is held in Kathmandu.

Day 14, 2013/05/14, Kathmandu; shopping (flexible time).
Note: Notable items to buy in Nepal include Khukuri knives, Indian jewelry, handmade tapestries, wooden handicrafts, leather hand drums, and thangka paintings.

Day 15, 2013/05/15, Kathmandu ----- Chengdu (Guangzhou or Beijing) -------- return to respective cities across China.

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Group B Itinerary:

Days D1–D6 are the same as Group A.

Day 7, 2013/05/07, Dingboche to Lobuche (4910M); stay at a lodge.
Note: Proper rest is key to high-altitude activities. This day marks the start of the Everest South Side high-altitude 5000-meter zone.

Day 8, 2013/05/08, Lobuche to Everest Base Camp (5364M); stay at a lodge.
Note: Get up close to the world’s highest peak at the Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side – an indescribable experience.

Day 9, 2013/05/09, Everest Base Camp (Everest BC) to Dzonglha (4830M); stay at a lodge.

Day 10, 2013/05/10, Dzonglha to Chhantyang (4590M); stay at a lodge.
Day 11, 2013/05/11, Chhantyang to Phortse Thango (3680M); stay at a lodge.

Note: The return journey is easy and the mood is relaxed.
Day 12, 2013/05/12, Phortse Thango to Phakding; stay at a lodge.
Note: The return journey is easy and the mood is relaxed. Groups A and B reunite.
Day 13, 2013/05/13, Phakding to Lukla; fly to Kathmandu.

Note: Celebration event in Kathmandu.

Day 14, 2013/05/14,   Kathmandu, shopping (flexible time).
Note: Noteworthy items to purchase in Nepal include: kukri knives, Indian jewelry, handmade tapestries, handcrafted wooden boxes, cowhide hand drums, thangka paintings, etc.

Day 15, 2013/05/15,    Kathmandu-----Chengdu (Guangzhou or Beijing)--------Various destinations across China.

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Personal Items to Bring:

Large hiking backpack (65-70L or 90L porter pack), summit pack (10-20L), rain cover, down sleeping bag, sleeping mat, one set of waterproof shell jacket and pants, moisture-wicking base layer set, moisture-wicking thermal socks, fleece sweater, down jacket, fleece hat, waterproof warm gloves, high-cut hiking boots (waterproof), sunglasses, one pair of trekking poles, headlamp, sunscreen, water bottles, personal food container and chopsticks, personal toiletries, personal medications.

Personal Technical Gear:

Harness, ice axe, crampons (strap-on), two locking carabiners, descender, ascender, two slings (this set can be rented in Nepal if not available; renting is recommended as carrying it is quite heavy).
Precautions:
1. Please absolutely follow the decisions and arrangements of the team leader. For climbing safety, participants should act according to their abilities—climb as high as they can, but if their physical condition does not permit, they must not insist on climbing higher.
2. Food and lodging conditions in the mountains are relatively basic and expensive. Boiled water costs 450-650 per thermos. Baiyue Outdoor provides two people with one thermos of hot water per day. Any extra demand must be purchased by participants themselves. Please be mentally prepared.
3. Upon completion of the activity, all successful summiteers will receive a summit certificate.
4. Protect the natural environment. All trash must be disposed of at designated points along the route. Placing memorial signs or other objects in the activity area is prohibited. Protect wildlife and plants; do not hunt or destroy them.
5. Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu city area is shared rooms for two people. Please inform us in advance if you have special requests.

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Activity Cost (RMB):
A-13500 RMB (Island Peak climb), member price 12800 RMB.
B-10500 RMB (EBC trek), member price 10000 RMB.

Costs Included:

1: 15-day Nepal visa fee (Baiyue collects visa documents from participants, entrusts an agency to process, round-trip courier fees are self-paid; for document security, SF Express must be used)

2: Entrance fees to Nepali scenic areas, trekking permits, climbing permits

3: 15 days of three meals and accommodation in Kathmandu for the duration of the trip

4: Round-trip flight tickets to and from Lukla, local transportation in Nepal
5: Transportation, food, and lodging expenses for the Chinese team leader

5: Fees for Chinese high-altitude coach and Sherpa support staff

6: Free gear carrying service for up to 40 lbs per person (one porter assigned per participant)

7: Base camp tents, tables, chairs, high-altitude catering services

8: Basic mountaineering technical course fee

9: Delicious side dishes purchased in China (duck tongue, duck feet, duck neck, beef jerky, meat floss, anchovies, soy-sauce cured meat, pickled mustard tuber, fermented tofu)

10: Professional high-altitude food purchased in China (5 regular energy gels, 2 super energy gels, 3 fruit-flavored energy bars, 1 bottle of 5-hour energy drink)

11: $600,000 overseas professional outdoor insurance from AIG.

12: Free 2013 membership fee for Baiyue Outdoor members, automatically upgraded to 2013 Baiyue Supreme Member (pure silver membership card not included).

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The following expenses are not included:

1: Round-trip transportation fees from mainland China to Kathmandu.

2: Personal climbing equipment.

3: Tips for individual porters. Due to Western influences, tips are considered a regular part of their income. The suggested daily rate is 100–300 Nepalese rupees. If you are satisfied with your porter, it is recommended to give a one-time tip of 1,000–2,000 Nepalese rupees at the end.

4: Shipping fees for overweight luggage.

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Registration process:

1. Please read the entire content carefully before registering and evaluate your own needs.
2. A deposit of 5,000 yuan is required upon registration to confirm a valid booking.
3. The registration deadline is 20 days before departure. We recommend registering as early as possible.

Registration deadline is April 15. Visas and flight bookings will be processed uniformly on April 15. A deposit of 5,000 yuan, transferred to the following account, is considered a valid registration. The trip will proceed with a minimum of 6 participants, and will be cancelled if fewer than 6 sign up. Maximum group size is 12.

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