On the 60th anniversary of the first human ascent of Mount Everest, the concept of “commercial mountaineering” has once again come into the public eye. Since May 10 of this year, Everest has presented an unusually busy scene, with “traffic jams” occurring on the climbing routes.
In the past month or so, several hundred people have successfully summited Everest from the southern slope, while the northern slope is relatively more difficult, dangerous, and expensive—reportedly reaching 300,000 yuan this year. However, every coin has two sides. Whether climbing from the southern slope in Nepal or the northern slope in China, skepticism about commercial mountaineering has never ceased.
Chaos on the Southern Slope: Overdevelopment and Brawls
Nepal, located on the southern slope of Everest, has a long history in commercial mountaineering. Coupled with the relative ease of summiting from the south, its commercial climbing services attract mountaineers from all over the world. June 29 of this year marks the 60th anniversary of the first human ascent of Everest, a milestone that draws climbers globally to take on the challenge.
On the southern slope, competition in commercial mountaineering is fierce, with multiple high-altitude expedition companies offering services. There are generally three ways for climbers to attempt Everest from Nepal: going solo, joining an expedition team that only handles logistics, or joining a fully commercial team with guided support. The cost of climbing Everest naturally varies depending on the chosen model. On average, the commercial price for summiting from the southern slope of Nepal typically ranges from 20,000 to 30,000 US dollars (approximately 120,000 to 180,000 RMB).
Criticism of southern slope climbs mainly centers around excessive commercialization. As long as you pay, regardless of your mountaineering experience, you can find a commercial expedition company to take you to the Everest summit. This has directly led to overcrowding during the best climbing season. Italian mountaineer Simone described the southern slope summit scene last May as a “amusement park,” with over 200 people swarming toward Everest, many of whom didn’t even know how to use basic equipment. The brawl on Everest on April 27 of this year further highlighted the chaos on the southern slope: Simone and two other independent climbers got into a conflict with Sherpas while attempting a new route. Witnesses said the fight was triggered because the Sherpas, who were repairing the route, felt that Simone and his group were “freeloading” off their dangerous labor.
Monopoly on the Northern Slope: Prices Rise to 300,000 Yuan Annually
In contrast, commercial mountaineering on China’s northern slope started later. It is understood that before 2003, most Chinese mountaineering efforts were state-led, focusing on challenging new routes or achieving first ascents. But starting in 2005, especially after the Olympic torch reached Everest in 2008, commercial mountaineering gradually gained momentum. In recent years, China’s commercial mountaineering industry has developed rapidly, and the routes have become relatively mature.
Compared to the competitive landscape on the southern slope, the only company in China currently qualified to provide Everest climbing services is Tibet’s Sacred Mountain Company. Unlike climbers on the southern slope who can choose their services independently, Sacred Mountain offers an all-inclusive package, which also makes it more expensive. In 2010, the fee was 250,000 yuan per person; in 2012, it rose to 280,000 yuan; and by this spring, the price had increased to 300,000 yuan—almost a new price every year—leading some to call Everest climbing “a sport only the wealthy can afford.”
In recent years, criticism of Sacred Mountain’s monopoly on northern slope commercial mountaineering has not subsided. Some argue that the monopoly leads to excessively high prices and limits opportunities for independent climbers. For example, last May, climber Wang Tianhan was reportedly brought back to base camp by Sacred Mountain when he attempted to continue climbing from 7,800 meters. The company cited safety concerns, claiming Wang was unauthorized, poorly equipped, lacked a guide, and had no supplemental oxygen—making the climb extremely dangerous.
Regarding the monopoly claims, Sacred Mountain feels somewhat wronged, arguing that China’s high-altitude commercial expeditions are still immature. “Mountaineering is a high-risk activity. More competition means more danger, and it will inevitably lead to price undercutting, which compromises safety standards and increases the likelihood of accidents.” Sacred Mountain believes its services are the most professional, and its guides make great sacrifices. During expeditions, over 20 team members have suffered severe frostbite to their hands and feet, with many losing fingers or toes, greatly impacting their daily lives. Notably, Sacred Mountain contributed to the 50th anniversary of the first Everest ascent in 2003, the 2005 Everest remeasurement, and the 2008 Olympic torch relay to the summit.