In recent years, books by foreigners describing Chinese society have not been uncommon. For example, American Peter Hessler's "Country Driving" and "River Town" once became acclaimed works of social observation in China. Compared to Hessler's field research in "Country Driving," the recently published "Walking Through China" by German youth Lei Ke, a Weibo celebrity known as "Lei Ke the Little Rascal," places greater emphasis on firsthand experience. He walked 4,646 kilometers across China, observing the country's social issues through his own eyes. Of course, he also found a lot of joy, made many friends, and visited many families during his trek.
Walking Through China: Loving the Fulfillment of Being on the Road
"Walking Through China" tells the story of German student Lei Ke leaving Beijing and traveling through Hebei, Shanxi, Shaanxi, Gansu, and Ningxia, then from Ningxia back into Gansu, crossing the Hexi Corridor, traversing the vast deserts of Xinjiang, passing through Central Asia, and entering Europe. Over the course of a year, he walked 4,646 kilometers across China. The book recounts what Lei Ke saw and heard within China—crossing plains, cities, railways, deserts, and Gobi, visiting the Terracotta Army, and traveling along the Silk Road. The curiosity and help of strangers in the countryside, chance encounters with monks, fortune-tellers, schoolchildren, retirees, and government officials, as well as his deep friendship with the eccentric teacher Xie, all enriched his journey. At the same time, his on-again, off-again romantic relationship with an Sichuan girl named Xiaoxiang ran throughout the trek.
When talking about why he chose to walk across China, it goes back to when he was selecting a major in college. Lei Ke said he wasn’t originally interested in Chinese or China, but when choosing a major at university in Germany, a Japanese friend told him the stories of the Three Kingdoms, saying they were the foundation of all Asian culture. Lei Ke thought, "There’s such a huge continent I know nothing about," so he planned to study Japanese and Japanese culture. But later, he changed his mind and decided to study Chinese because he realized there were far more Chinese speakers than Japanese speakers. "I went through the trouble of learning a foreign language, so I hope to communicate with a lot of people, right? So I chose to communicate with 1.4 billion people."
That’s how Lei Ke came to China. He completed a year of language study and a year of photography training at the Beijing Film Academy. In 2007, he got the idea of walking home from Beijing. "In the summer of 2003, I walked from Paris back to Germany—800 kilometers—in less than a month. Why not do it again?" Lei Ke said he loves walking, and it holds special meaning for him. "I remember when I was walking, all I could think about was where I’d sleep and what I’d eat." During that time, he had no abstract questions or worries—just practical, pending problems. "That feeling was great, very fulfilling." And walking gave him the sense of being on a path that belonged to him. "No matter where I am, what I remember isn’t just the road itself, but more the feeling of knowing I have the right to be on the road. When you take a train, you’re just an outside observer."
Walking Observations: Admiring the Sacrificial Spirit of Chinese Parents
To the average person, walking 4,646 kilometers seems incredibly difficult. So how did Lei Ke manage to keep going? Lei Ke said he’s a rather stubborn person—he just goes when he says he will—and he gained more joy than anything else on the road. He said the person who influenced him the most during the trek was Xie Jianguang, known as the "Number One Madman Under Heaven," who spent nearly 30 years walking across China. "He’s a very interesting guy, and we’re good friends." Lei Ke also met Brother Huihui, Uncle Shen, the Taoist priest, the boss, kids, elderly people, and others—all of whom appear in "Walking Through China." Lei Ke believes he didn’t become friends with these people because of any shared traits; in Chinese terms, it’s called "fate." "For example, as a little foreigner in the mountains chatting with a Taoist priest over 70 years old—that’s a rare thing for me. That’s fate."
During his trek, Lei Ke also visited many Chinese families. He discovered something truly admirable: many Chinese parents, especially in rural areas, are willing to give everything for their children. "They work hard to earn money so their kids can go to school in big cities, while they stay behind in their hometowns, running small shops, working in coal mines, farming… I really hope those kids know how much their parents have sacrificed for them." Of course, Lei Ke also noticed some less positive aspects of Chinese families. "I feel like many Chinese parents nowadays are in a rush to get their kids married. I don’t think that’s very good—it puts a lot of pressure on the kids, and even if they find someone quickly, that person might not be the ideal match."
Lei Ke also observed that in most third-tier cities and rural areas, material living conditions aren’t that great, so people’s dreams tend to be more practical—like owning a house, a car, and having a stable income. Urban youth in better economic conditions are more similar to German youth, striving to figure out how to "be themselves." But "being yourself" is a vague concept—whether German or Chinese youth, no one knows where the answer lies. "Probably, everyone has to find it for themselves."
Writing About Han Han: He’s a "Strange Phenomenon"
As a Sinologist, Lei Ke is preparing to write his master’s thesis on Han Han, a "public opinion leader." Lei Ke said the Han Han phenomenon is a very strange one. "Why are Chinese netizens divided into two camps regarding Han Han—the anti-Han faction and the pro-Han faction? For the anti-Han side, is Han Han a representative of the 'knockoff' issues China has faced over the past few decades? You can’t buy trustworthy milk powder, eggs are fake. Maybe they hope that at least the so-called 'opinion leaders' aren’t fake? And for the pro-Han side, do they think the attacks on Han Han aren’t really aimed at Han Han himself, but at his opinions? If so, then the pro-Han side isn’t really supporting Han Han, but their own social views."
Watching Lei Ke talk confidently about China’s issues and figures, many netizens say he’s a real China expert. But Lei Ke doesn’t think he understands China very well—because what he knows is only what he’s seen with his own eyes, plus what he’s learned through books, movies, online chats, and hanging out with Chinese friends. "But in reality, I realized a long time ago that China isn’t just a country, she’s a world. Even Chinese people can’t fully understand every aspect of China, so I’m just an outsider who’s passed through."