Fluttering prayer flags
The milestones of National Highway 318, graffiti-ed by many.
I once heard from a friend who loves self-driving and has traveled to many places that he has a dream: to drive the entire length of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway on National Highway 318, heading toward the same goal with like-minded people, from Chengdu to Lhasa.
At first, I didn’t quite understand where my friend’s dream came from. Mr. Shen Lingfeng, a seasoned media professional and an active promoter of Chinese car culture, gave me the answer: because driving the Sichuan-Tibet Highway is inherently challenging. If someone who loves self-driving says they’ve never been on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, people generally wouldn’t consider them a high-level self-driving traveler—they might just be a casual tourist, not a truly dedicated one.
China is vast, with many challenging self-driving routes—so why does the Sichuan-Tibet Highway hold such great allure?
Explaining that could take a while. But all you need to know is that the Sichuan-Tibet Highway is like the string in a pearl necklace, linking the stunning scenery along the way like pearls. Heading westward along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, especially, snow-capped mountains and glaciers—once rarely seen by people—begin to appear frequently: Mount Gongga, the Hailuogou thousand-meter icefall, Zheduo Mountain, Mount Yala… Even on this “string,” peaks over 7,000 meters like Namcha Barwa and Gyala Peri emerge, and further west, four of the world’s 14 peaks over 8,000 meters—Makalu, Cho Oyu, Mount Everest, and Shishapangma—come into view. In fact, along this great road, there are countless unnamed snow-capped mountains and glaciers that we don’t yet know how to fully appreciate. That’s why the Sichuan-Tibet Highway is also known as the “China Scenic Highway.”
Not to mention the slightly mysterious traditional culture of the Tibetan people living along the route, and the unique architecture and even clothing of each county, which are highly attractive to travelers.
The Sichuan-Tibet Highway is indeed captivating. In this issue, self-driving expert Shen Lingfeng and professional Sichuan-Tibet Highway guide Chen Yong share their experiences of traveling this route, helping fellow self-driving enthusiasts better pursue their dreams and embark on a journey along China’s Scenic Highway.
National Highway 318 almost follows the line of 30 degrees north latitude. It starts in Shanghai and ends at Tibet’s Friendship Bridge, spanning a total of 5,476 kilometers, making it China’s longest national highway. The magnificent scenery along the way is either right beside the road or within 200 kilometers north or south of it: the Yangtze River estuary, the Qiantang River, Huangshan Mountain, Shennongjia, the Three Gorges, Zhangjiajie, and Mount Emei are all familiar sights. Further west, even more breathtaking landscapes come into view: Mount Gongga, the Hailuogou thousand-meter icefall, Mount Yala, Namcha Barwa, and Mount Everest, towering over 8,000 meters.
A self-driving journey along the Sichuan-Tibet section of National Highway 318 has always been the most cherished dream of self-driving enthusiasts. Starting from April and May each year, self-driving enthusiasts from all over the country begin driving along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway. Although the April 2022 Ya’an Lushan earthquake temporarily disrupted the Tianquan section of National Highway 318 nearby, making the Sichuan-Tibet Highway journey more difficult, challenges can’t stop self-driving enthusiasts from pursuing their dreams. It’s believed that the summer season will see a peak in Sichuan-Tibet Highway self-driving trips. The wheels will keep rolling forward, allowing travelers to savor every high mountain and valley, river and stream, town and village they pass through, as well as the sunrises, sunsets, changing weather, and the sounds of birds and flowers along the way.
How can you fully appreciate the beauty of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway instead of just rushing through it on such a complex and ever-changing road? Self-driving experts and travelers share their tips to help you enjoy a relaxing and pleasant road trip.
Driving Expert: Shen Lingfeng
A seasoned media professional and an active promoter of Chinese car culture, he co-authored the book *36 Roads Every Driving Enthusiast Must Travel*. In July 2009, he began his “My China, My Road” nationwide road trip plan. In May 2012, he set off from Shanghai, traveled the southern route of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, and arrived in Lhasa.
[Expert Opinion]
Driving the Sichuan-Tibet Highway is a cultural phenomenon
I’ve driven several routes to Tibet, but none have as many people sharing the same goal as the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, where everyone is doing the same thing in different ways.
In Shen Lingfeng’s view, driving the Sichuan-Tibet Highway is inherently challenging. If a self-driving enthusiast says they’ve never been on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, they’re generally not considered a high-level self-driving traveler. “They might just be a casual enthusiast, not a truly dedicated traveler.” There aren’t many routes to Tibet, and the most commonly traveled ones are the Qinghai-Tibet and Sichuan-Tibet Highways. Relatively speaking, the Sichuan-Tibet Highway offers better scenic variety.
Personally, the main reason is that the Sichuan-Tibet Highway is a cultural phenomenon, a cultural landscape. I’ve driven several routes to Tibet, but none have as many people sharing the same goal as the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, where everyone is doing the same thing in different ways. It’s an incredibly appealing and joyful experience. It also gave me the idea to organize a large gathering on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, so everyone can experience this unique cultural atmosphere together.
[Expert Advice]
Treat the Sichuan-Tibet Highway in sections
Shen Lingfeng says that the 2,100-kilometer journey from Chengdu to Lhasa can actually be divided into different segments. There are two ways to divide it. One is by road conditions, separating the Sichuan section from the Tibet section. The Sichuan section has poorer road conditions, with road construction, landslides, and gravel roads, mostly within Sichuan Province. Once you cross the Jinsha River Bridge into Tibet, the road conditions are much better, mostly paved.
The second way is to divide it by natural scenery into three sections. The first section is from the Chengdu Plain in Sichuan to Erlang Mountain in Ya’an. This part has good road conditions and tall trees. The second section is from Erlang Mountain to Mangkang in Tibet. This part is generally more desolate, with shorter trees and more mountains. The third section is from Mangkang to Lhasa, especially after passing Zogang and the 99 turns of the Nujiang River, as well as areas like Bomi, Bayi, and Ranwu, which are valley regions known as the “Tibetan Jiangnan.” You return to a lush forested area with more humid air, and the scenery along the way is truly uplifting.
[Personal Experience]
Take time to appreciate Tibetan culture along the way
Shen Lingfeng explains that as you travel along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, the Tibetan culture you encounter rises and falls like waves. Based on the scenic segmentation, before reaching Erlang Mountain, although you’ll still meet Tibetan people, their way of life is already quite similar to that of the Han people. The second section, known as the Kham region, is where he believes Tibetan culture is best preserved. For example, in places like Litang, Tibetan people maintain their traditional lifestyle, and their personalities are more straightforward, with a significant cultural difference from the Han people. We need to be mindful when traveling through this section. The third section, within Tibet, is a valley region. Perhaps due to the climate, the Tibetan people here seem gentler. In places like Lhasa, during the peak tourist season, travelers and locals get along very well.
Personally, Shen Lingfeng prefers the culture and scenery of the third section. There, you’ll find that Tibetan life is somewhat different from what we imagine— the environment is more beautiful, living conditions are relatively better, and there’s an unexpected sense of delight. So once you enter the third section, everyone’s mindset becomes much more relaxed, allowing them to focus more on the scenery along the way.
[Expert Reminder]
Set aside ample time for your Sichuan-Tibet Highway trip
Based on his own experience, Shen Lingfeng believes that traveling along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway requires setting aside plenty of time. Only with ample time can you handle unexpected situations on the road calmly, without rushing due to delays. Many accidents on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway are actually caused by hurrying. The second preparation is to have a certain level of driving skills. The road conditions on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway vary greatly—what’s good today might turn bad tomorrow. Weather changes dramatically between mountain passes and valleys, so it’s essential to learn some driving techniques for rain and snow in advance. Never take it lightly.
In terms of travel timing, theoretically, April and May are the best because it hasn’t entered the rainy season yet. But some locals suggest that July and August are better. Why? Because that’s when the local flowers are in full bloom—it’s incredibly beautiful. However, July and August are also the rainy season, and landslides are more likely to occur on the road. What’s the solution? It’s actually what was mentioned earlier: prepare with plenty of time. Generally, areas prone to landslides will have clear warning signs, and there may even be personnel stationed to block the road. When passage isn’t possible, don’t force it. Stay safe, follow instructions, and the likelihood of accidents will be greatly reduced. There’s no need to be overly fearful.
Traveler Representative: Chen Yong
Online alias: Yongyong Ge, a self-driving traveler. Ever since his first self-driving trip along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway to Tibet ten years ago, he has been completely captivated by the journey. He travels the Sichuan-Tibet Highway seven or eight times a year and is now a professional leader for self-driving tours on the route. He just completed a Sichuan-Tibet trip in late May.
[Traveler’s Perspective]
The Sichuan-Tibet Highway Changed His Attitude Toward Life
Chen Yong said that his first trip along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway was quite simple—he just picked up a map and looked at National Highway 318. As China’s scenic highway, it stretches all the way from Shanghai in the east to the Friendship Bridge at the Nyalam-Zhangmu Port in the west. Although it’s very long, the most iconic section is from Chengdu to Lhasa to Mount Everest—that is, the commonly referred to Sichuan-Tibet Highway. Coupled with the mystery of Tibet, he decided to drive along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway into Tibet. But it was this trip that changed his life and his attitude toward living.
[Reminder]
Reaching High Altitude Is a Test
Chen Yong explained that there’s one thing to pay attention to: the high altitudes along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway are a test for first-timers. “Never think of driving the Sichuan-Tibet Highway as just a regular road trip like those on the mainland. Spending such a long period and covering such a long distance at high altitude requires both mental and material preparation.” The most important thing is mental readiness—if you’re not prepared enough, encountering harsh environments, traffic jams, or heavy dust from road construction can severely affect your travel mood. So, be clear that the goal of driving the Sichuan-Tibet Highway isn’t pleasure-seeking, but spiritual purification. Before setting off, learn as much as you can and prepare mentally. “The scenery is beautiful, but it comes with hardship!”
Of course, there’s no need to worry about altitude sickness. As long as you’re healthy and don’t have conditions like high blood pressure or heart disease, feeling a bit unwell upon first arriving at high altitude is normal—don’t let it cause mental stress. Just keep an open mind, adjust your mood to stay relaxed and happy, and with the help of altitude sickness medication, it’s easy to overcome. For more serious cases, you can use oxygen or go to the hospital. Every county along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway has hospitals capable of handling altitude sickness. If things really don’t improve, you can go to the airport and fly back to Chengdu. Once you return to lower altitudes, the symptoms of altitude sickness will disappear.
Additionally, besides planning your itinerary and route in advance, it’s best to arrange accommodation and meals along the way ahead of time. Especially lodging, because each county has limited reception capacity—there are usually only one or two decent hotels. During the summer vacation, self-drivers from all over the country flock to the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, making accommodation tight. Confirm what you can in advance so that poor lodging doesn’t ruin your mood or journey.
[Suggestions]
Venture Off the Main Road to Experience the Essence of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway
The Sichuan-Tibet Highway starts from the Chengdu Plain and traverses over a dozen mountains over 4,000 meters high—you’ll be climbing passes at that altitude almost every day. Once you enter the mountainous region, you’re in Tibetan-inhabited areas, then you cross the Jinsha River, Lancang River, and Nujiang River, known as the Three Rivers. In short, it’s about “seeing mountains, water, and local culture.” The local culture varies—even the Tibetan architecture in Sichuan differs from that in Tibet, with noticeable differences between counties and varied traditional clothing. Observing these differences takes time, and it’s a major highlight.
Chen Yong believes that to experience the essence of the landscapes along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, you need to venture off the main road and explore the mountains 100–200 kilometers deep. In the eyes of travelers, National Highway 318, the main Sichuan-Tibet Highway, is like the string of a necklace, connecting scattered scenic spots along its sides. If you just drive along the highway, your experience might be limited. But if you turn into the mountains, spending an extra day or two based on the highway, you can explore highlights like Mount Gongga and Cuogu Valley, making your self-driving trip much richer.
[Links]
The Sichuan-Tibet Highway is short for the Sichuan-Tibet Road. It’s the first motorable road connecting Chengdu in Sichuan and Lhasa in Tibet, and now it’s an important part of National Highway 318. Traveling into Tibet along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway involves crossing high mountains and rapid rivers—challenging and dangerous—but the scenery is magnificent, featuring snow-capped mountains, primeval forests, grasslands, glaciers, and major rivers (like the Jinsha, Lancang, and Nujiang). It’s a dream destination for adventure travelers and photographers. Therefore, Routes 317 and 318 of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway are hailed by National Geographic of China as China’s Scenic Highway. Currently, the Sichuan-Tibet Highway includes a northern and southern route, with the southern route generally referring to National Highway 318. This article refers to the Sichuan-Tibet Highway as National Highway 318.
■ Don’t Miss:
Mount Gongga: Known as the “King of Sichuan Mountains,” its main peak stands at 7,556 meters, making it one of the world’s famous peaks. Mount Gongga is famous for its glaciers, including the Hailuogou Glacier No. 1, Gongba Glacier, and Bawang Glacier.
Mugecuo: Translated as “Wild Man Lake,” it’s located at the northwest foot of the Hengduan Mountains. The area is known for its rich local culture and therapeutic hot springs, making it a great destination for sightseeing, entertainment, relaxation, recuperation, fitness, summer retreats, and scientific research.
Zheduo Mountain: With a pass at 4,298 meters, it’s the first point over 4,000 meters on the Sichuan-Tibet Highway. It’s traditionally considered the dividing line between Tibetan and Han regions, with noticeable differences in population distribution, production, and lifestyle on either side. The western side is the eastern part of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau—the true Tibetan area. From the mountaintop observation deck, you can see Mount Gongga, the “King of Sichuan Mountains.”
Xinduqiao: Known for its breathtaking scenery, it’s called the “World of Light and Shadow” and is popular among photographers. The town features vast grasslands, mountains, and Tibetan villages—all excellent subjects for photography.
Tagong Grassland: Located between Bamei and Xinduqiao, the Sichuan-Tibet Highway runs through it. It’s the closest pure pastoral grassland to the central city of Kangding in Ganzi Prefecture, consisting of Tagong Grassland, Tagong Monastery, Muya Golden Tower, and sacred mountains.
Changqingnianke'er Monastery: Also known as Litang Monastery, it’s located on a hillside about 1 km north of Litang City. The monastery has 428 monk dormitories and 1,300 rooms, making it the Gelug sect monastery with the highest number of monks in the Kham region. Its architecture, murals, stupas, and Buddha statues are exquisite. The monastery holds various grand ceremonies each year and season, featuring unique events like cham dancing, scripture debates, mountain circumambulation, and thangka unfurling.
Cuopu Valley: Located in Batang County, it’s known for its beautiful alpine lakes, primeval forests, hot spring clusters, and Tibetan Buddhist temples, bringing together the essence of mountain and water landscapes.
Dongba Township: Nestled in the Nujiang Gorge, it’s 100 km from Zuogong County and 22 km from Tiantuo Town on National Highway 318. The local residential architecture is grand, built against mountains, rivers, roads, and orchards, resembling Lijiang in layout but with stronger Tibetan cultural characteristics. It’s hailed as the “No. 1 Residential Architecture in Eastern Tibet.”
Laigu Glacier: Located in Ranwu Town, Baxoi County, Chamdo Prefecture, Tibet, adjacent to Ranwu Lake, it’s one of the world’s three major glaciers and the source of the Palong Zangbo River.
Ranwu Lake: The largest alpine glacial lake in eastern Tibet, covering 22 square kilometers at an altitude of 3,850 meters, it’s the most beautiful and largest glacial lake in eastern Tibet.
Midui Glacier: Located in Yupu Township, Bomi County, Tibet, with the small villages of Meimei and Midui at its base. The glacier’s main peak stands at 6,800 meters, with the snowline at just 4,600 meters. It’s one of China’s most beautiful glaciers and the one with the lowest elevation in the world.
Mount Namjagbarwa: With an elevation of 7,782 meters and composed of seven peaks, it is far more challenging to climb than Mount Everest due to complex weather conditions. To date, humans have successfully summited it only three times. The Sejila Mountain Pass between Nyingchi and Luolong is the best spot to view the famous Mount Namjagbarwa. In winter, the majestic peak is often visible, but in other seasons, it rarely shows itself.
Tips:
The best travel periods are: May, August to October
Road conditions: The section of National Highway 318 in Tianquan County, Sichuan, is prone to landslides or mudflows due to the Lushan earthquake and the rainy season, often leading to road closures. You can detour from Ya'an via G5 Expressway to Shimian County, then transfer to S211 to reach Luding County on National Highway 318.
The section from Xinduqiao to Litang is part of a major project by Garzê Prefecture and has been under construction for about two years. During this summer, asphalt paving is expected, which may involve segmented traffic controls. This period also coincides with the peak season for self-driving along the Sichuan-Tibet Highway, so make sure to check road construction and clearance schedules in advance to avoid getting stuck. Road conditions on other sections are relatively good.