Everest Base Camp sits at an altitude of 5,200 meters — a height that can make your whole body tingle just hearing about it. Most people give up on their dream trip upon learning this altitude, daunted by concerns over acclimatization. But in truth, it’s not as scary as it sounds. Many travelers visit Everest Base Camp, and you can too!
[attach]1937254[/attach]
Upon first arriving in Lhasa, some people may experience altitude sickness, but it usually subsides after about two days.
However, if you’re going on a self-drive trip or are coming from northeastern China, Beijing, or Tianjin, it’s still recommended to carry some equipment to prevent altitude sickness and provide oxygen, such as the vehicle-mounted oxygen generators sold on Taobao. The brand Longlifu is pretty good. I bought one from them when I went. Once I reached an altitude of 4,000 meters, the difference with and without the oxygen generator was obvious. Having it on board made me feel much more comfortable, and I could even drive uphill with the setting at level 3–4.
[attach]1937253[/attach]
[attach]1937252[/attach]
If you want to go to Everest, it’s best to acclimate in Lhasa first — at least three days. Once you feel fine after three days, you’re good to head to Everest. Some people take Rhodiola rosea before going to Tibet, which is said to help improve oxygen tolerance. I started taking it two days before my departure. Whether it helped or not, I didn’t experience altitude sickness in Tibet, but I’m definitely grateful for that vehicle-mounted oxygen generator — it made the journey much more comfortable.
[attach]1937251[/attach]
A border permit is required to go to Everest. In Beijing, you can apply at various police stations by providing a letter from your employer and a photo — it’s free. In Lhasa, travel agencies handle the application at the Border Visa Office. No photos are needed, but the agency will issue a letter of certification. The visa fee is 10 yuan, but the agency charges 50 yuan. Visa processing is only available during office hours. In Lhasa, that means starting at 9:00 AM, and there’s often a queue, so you might not get your visa until around 11:00 AM. After that, head first to Shigatse City, then go up to Everest the next day.
[attach]1937250[/attach]
The temperature difference between day and night at Everest is significant, but there’s no need to worry too much. Just bring a windbreaker, fleece lining, wind pants, and thin wool pants — that’s enough. Some people rent heavy coats and sleeping bags, but that’s really unnecessary.
[attach]1937249[/attach]
All vehicles from Lhasa to Everest are off-road cars. Typically, four people share a car. If you’re carpooling, the minimum cost is 4 yuan per kilometer. Travel agencies also arrange shared rides with groups of four. From Lhasa, follow National Highway 318 all the way to Dingri County, where you purchase tickets for Everest. The individual ticket is 180 yuan, and the vehicle ticket is 400 yuan. The ticket features an image of a row of snow-capped mountains, including Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and Makalu — a whole line-up of peaks welcoming you. This real-life view can be seen on the way to Everest at a mountain pass viewpoint specifically set up to see the snowy lineup. The Everest ticket makes for a great souvenir. When we went, the tickets were sold out, so we got an invoice instead — a bit of a pity.
[attach]1937248[/attach]
The road branching off from National Highway 318 toward Everest is a gravel road — the classic washboard type that jolts every part of your body. Be prepared for that. Though the road isn’t great, it’s quite wide, and the mountain switchbacks aren’t dangerous.
[attach]1937247[/attach]
[attach]1937246[/attach]
Everest Base Camp is located in a valley between two mountains. The valley is fairly flat, essentially a riverbed covered with pebbles, and at the end of the valley lies Everest. The campsite itself is leveled and quite spacious, surrounded by tents — all temporary structures. Every April, local Tibetans haul the tents up the mountain with tractors, and take them down again around the end of September. The campsite is deserted during other times. The Everest Post Office at the base camp is also a tent-based one.
[attach]1937245[/attach]
Meltwater from Everest forms a small river, the water turbid and milky white, rushing noisily past the campsite. At night, the sound of the river can be quite loud. There are many wild pigeons at the base camp, along with a type of small bird that looks similar to a sparrow but isn’t. Neither are afraid of people, and you can feed them bread.
[attach]1937244[/attach]
The tent guesthouses at the base camp are very clean, with carpets on the floor and beds arranged around. The bedding is also clean and warm. Some say the bedding is dirty — that’s unfounded. Since the tents are mixed-gender and people don’t sleep in the nude due to the cold, there's little chance for sweating or bacterial growth, so the bedding looks clean. Though some tents may have slightly damp floors, there’s absolutely no moldy smell. Each bed costs 60 yuan.
[attach]1937243[/attach]
Arrive at the base camp around 4 or 5 PM, drop off your luggage, and it’s recommended to put on your windbreaker and pants — no need for the fleece lining yet. Buy an eco-car ticket to ride to the Everest Stone Tablet for a close-up view of the mountain. There’s a border outpost there guarded by armed police who will check your ID and return it when you come back. There’s also a small hill about ten meters high — if you’re climbing, take it slowly; moving too fast will leave you breathless. Also, since you’ve exited the vehicle, the oxygen generator won’t be of use. You can also explore the riverbank area — you might find a beautiful fossil. There are quite a few fossil hunters around. Alternatively, you can walk along the road for about an hour and a half to reach the tablet. You can hike up and take the eco-car down without needing to show your ticket.
[attach]1937242[/attach]
Dinner can be had in the tents — they serve stir-fried dishes, though not many varieties. Instant noodles cost 15 yuan, while egg and tomato noodles are 20 yuan. After dinner, go out to enjoy the scenery. It’s recommended to wear your fleece lining as it gets very cold once the sun sets. The same goes for the morning — it’s cold then too. Bring a headlamp or flashlight for Everest, as you’ll need it for the toilet trips early in the morning or late at night.
[attach]1937241[/attach]
At night, the tent is heated with a stove, which reduces the oxygen level inside. Most people will feel some discomfort, but it gets better after a while. If you’ve brought an oxygen bottle, you can use some oxygen. My own feeling was like being drunk — wanting to throw up but unable to. Later, when the wind blew and fresh air came in, I felt better right away.
[attach]1937240[/attach]
Many people say they can’t sleep at Everest, but I slept very well. I posted many photos from my trip, including close-ups. Feel free to leave comments!!