People often say there’s no scenery in familiar places.
Thirty years ago, the first assignment I received after graduating from university was to go to the Huolinhe Coal Mine in Inner Mongolia to do surveying. Working in the field there naturally meant running around the grasslands every day. Perhaps because my attention was entirely focused on the job, I only remembered the “vastness” of the grassland, but never noticed its “beauty.”
For many years, I could understand all the praise people heaped on the grasslands, yet I remained indifferent to their longing for them.
This year, during my vacation, with the mindset of accompanying my husband in fulfilling his wish to “see the grasslands,” I decided to drive around eastern Inner Mongolia.
Before setting off, I did a lot of preparation for this trip. But after searching online for several days, I couldn’t find any travel experiences from other travelers that matched my plan. Therefore, I not only had to plan the detailed route for this trip, but also prepared an alternate route (which could also be called an “escape route”) just in case—whether due to various reasons we had to turn back halfway, or encountered unexpected situations like bad weather or blocked roads—so we could withdraw promptly. I also made sure we could find accommodation every night (no plans for camping in the wild). I hand-drew a travel route map that indicated directions, distances, estimated travel times, presence of toll gates and gas stations, etc. I also supplemented some of our outdoor gear. Additionally, I printed out the weather forecasts for the places we would pass through.15The weather forecasts for the days.
All along, my impression of Inner Mongolia was that it was sparsely populated, with no mountains or water—apart from grasslands and livestock, there wasn’t much scenery. Only after doing my homework did I realize that just the unique landscapes in the eastern part alone would take no less than...10...a few days or even half a month to fully explore.
For this trip, since we weren’t very clear about many road conditions, we also set some travel principles: before setting off each day, no matter how much fuel was left in the tank, we would fill it up before starting. We wouldn’t drive at night or drive while fatigued.
After getting everything ready, we set off confidently just before the Dragon Boat Festival holiday.
D1 Dalian――Tongliao
Early in the morning, we left Dalian and drove north all the way via the highway. When we passed by the Daqinggou Scenic Area, since we had been there not long ago, we didn’t go in and continued northward. We arrived in Tongliao in the evening and checked into a Home Inn hotel that we had booked online in advance.
After dinner, we took a “survey walk” to check out Tongliao’s municipal area. I had passed through Tongliao thirty years ago when going to Huolinhe, but didn’t stop and had no impression of it. This time, during our “survey,” I felt that Tongliao was full of construction, with projects nearing completion everywhere, as well as sand and dust in the air everywhere.
D2 Tongliao――Jalaid Banner――Ulanhot (Hinggan League)
Before leaving Tongliao, to make the trip worthwhile, we visited the Horqin Museum to learn about the origin, migration, rise and fall, and successive changes in the history, development, and culture of the horseback-riding ethnic groups. We also admired sculptures and paintings about the beautiful legend of the Blue Wolf and White Deer, as well as other cultural relics related to the origins of Mongolian culture and some reproductions of those relics.
During the visit, we met a university student who was studying in Tongliao. The student said that although she majored in information technology, she was quite interested in cultural relics. We chatted as we looked around, which added a bit of fun. When parting, the student recommended that Tongliao’s beef jerky was delicious and said that not buying some would be a waste of a trip to Tongliao. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find the shop she mentioned (I regret not asking clearly), so I had to buy a big bag at the gas station while refueling. Tasting it, though the flavor wasn’t as good as Tibetan beef jerky (not made from the same kind of beef), it was still really delicious. However, it was produced in Hohhot, not Tongliao. I imagined that maybe the beef jerky produced in Tongliao might taste even better? Let’s leave that as a mystery, haha.
At10thirty in the morning, we left Tongliao and headed toward our next target stopover,――Hinggan League (Ulanhot).
In order to keep the trip from becoming too monotonous, we decided before setting off that we absolutely would not drive while fatigued. If there were scenic spots along the way, we would definitely stop.
There are two routes from Tongliao to Ulanhot. We chose to detour via Jalaid Banner, reasoning that this road had existed thirty years ago, so the current road conditions should be better, and the scenery along the way should also be quite nice.
After driving about50kilometers, we saw a sign for the “Xiaozhuang’s Former Residence” and turned in, driving for about4kilometers or so. It was drizzling,6and it wasn’t tourist season either. The entrance to the “Former Residence” was deserted. The ticket price for outsiders was...50yuan, with discounts for locals (this was also mentioned at other scenic spots, reportedly decided by the leadership). We peeked inside from the gate and felt it was just a bunch of replicated buildings. We figured the architecture couldn’t compare to the Forbidden City, and the cultural relics probably weren’t as good as those at the Horqin Museum we had just left. Add to that the uncomfortable feeling of regional discrimination, so we didn’t go in.
We continued on, and the surroundings were starting to show signs of the grasslands. After about80kilometers, we saw another sign for the “Zhurihe Tourist Scenic Area.” We turned in to take a look, but it was still deserted, with a few Mongolian yurts lonely waiting for the peak-season visitors. It’s said that the tourist peak here is in July and August each year, and most visitors come mainly for horse riding. Our horseback riding activity was arranged near Linjiang, so we didn’t go in.
There was also an interesting little incident on the way to Ulanhot: not long after leaving Jarud Banner, we encountered a fork in the road with unclear signage and no one around to ask for directions. We didn’t want to take the toll road because it wouldn’t allow us to stop freely to enjoy the scenery and take photos, so we chose a road with slightly worse conditions. As we drove, we encountered another fork with no one around, and this time we decided to take the better-conditioned road. But the road kept getting worse, and we felt we might have taken the wrong turn. We turned around and took the other road, where we finally met someone who could give directions. The person humorously said, “The road you took earlier was the right one; now you’re going the opposite way—classic ‘going south while aiming north.’” But he added that we could still reach the toll station if we continued, and then we could use the toll road. We thanked them and moved on, planning to switch to the toll road once we reached the station. Not long after, we saw a herd of cattle up ahead. One cow slowly walked in front of our car and, while moving, dropped a pile of manure, leaving a “line” of poop along the right half of the road. After driving past, something felt off—as if the cow was trying to tell us something. It was the first day of our trip, and we didn’t want any trouble. So we decided to turn around immediately and honestly took the toll road.
The toll road had excellent conditions. Although we couldn’t park for long, brief stops were still allowed. There wasn’t much traffic, so short stops didn’t hinder other vehicles. But because the road was in such good condition, everyone drove quite fast, and parking for too long just didn’t feel safe.
The drive from Tongliao through Jarud Banner to Ulanhot covered approximately380kilometers (not including the distances to and from the attractions along the way). We drove and stopped along the way, and by the time we reached Ulanhot, it was already evening at around6o’clock, having traveled for seven and a half hours.
Just like in Tongliao, the next steps were to check into a hotel,――eat,――and “inspect” the city.
D3 Ulanhot――Arxan National Forest Park
Early8in the morning, we set off from Ulanhot toward our first destination of this trip: Arxan National Forest Park.
The road conditions remained good, there wasn’t much traffic, and the grassland scenery grew richer.
We continued to drive and stop, taking in the views and taking photos. Sometimes we drove slowly, enjoying the scenery. After about300kilometers to Arxan City, we drove another roughly sixty to seventy kilometers to the entrance of Arxan National Forest Park.
After asking around, we learned that the park tickets still offered discounts for locals, while out-of-towners paid180yuan/per person, valid for two days. There are accommodations on the mountain, and cars can be driven up. So we decided to stay on the mountain to save travel time and distance the next day.
After reaching the mountain, since it was still early, we didn’t rush to find accommodation. Following the signs, we first went to a nearby attraction: Arxan Tianchi (Heavenly Lake).
Arxan Tianchi has four wonders. Wonder one: it neither dries up during prolonged droughts nor overflows during heavy rains—the water level remains constant regardless of weather; wonder two: there’s no visible inlet or outlet, yet the water is crystal clear; wonder three: fish are found in surrounding waters, but Tianchi has none. Strangely, even when fish fry were released into the lake, no fish were ever seen swimming or dead. Wonder four: the depth of Tianchi is unfathomable—even after probing300meters deep, the bottom was not found.
This attraction isn’t very large. Though it was already sunset, the scenery was still beautiful. Surprisingly, even in June, there were still patches of unmelted snow on the rocks by the water. We leisurely took some scenic photos, and by the time we came down, it was almost dark.
Arxan in6month isn’t warm, with nighttime temperatures only around5degrees Celsius. So when choosing accommodation, one major consideration is warmth. We initially wanted to pick a place with a heated kang bed, but those rooms were limited and already fully booked. After comparing options, we chose to stay at Shanquan Mountain Villa at the intersection. It had heating, electric blankets, an indoor bathroom, a yard for parking, cost80yuan per night, and offered great value.
After dinner, we walked to the nearest attraction from our lodging.――The unfrozen river. By now, it was getting dark and would soon be night. We stepped into the grassland and headed toward the river. The moment we entered the grass, I regretted it: first, we were immediately swarmed by mosquitoes. I already knew that there were many mosquitoes on the grasslands, but I never expected so many in the chilly mountain grass. Second, what looked beautiful from afar was covered in cow dung everywhere. I hopped and jumped while yelling “yuck,” making my way to the river.
The “Unfrozen River” gets its name from not freezing all year round. The riverside night view is quite nice, but I was too busy swatting mosquitoes and hopping over cow dung to enjoy the scenery. My husband, on the other hand, didn’t mind at all. Having grown up in the countryside, walking barefoot on cow dung was nothing unusual to him—in his eyes, cow dung wasn’t “poop” and wasn’t dirty.
I stuck it out by the river for a while before hopping back onto the path. It was completely dark by then. It was the third day of the fifth lunar month, and with no streetlights on the mountain, everything was pitch black and hard to see. But even after calling my husband for ages, he still refused to come up. Later, when I saw the photos he took, I understood why he lingered by the river: the still water mirrored the mountain forests like a mirror, and the faint moonlight outlined the scenery with clarity and mystery. Too bad our camera wasn’t great—otherwise, it would have made for a truly stunning night photo.
D4 Arxan National Forest Park――Yiershi Village
Breakfast at Shanquan Mountain Villa10One yuan per person, enough to fill you up. When we checked out after the meal, the warm-hearted landlady even invited us to come back for more food after our adventures and then head down the mountain.
The entrance tickets we bought to get into the mountain allow entry to8attractions. We had already visited one—the Arxan Tianchi (Heavenly Lake)—the previous day, leaving seven more. According to fellow travelers we’d spoken to, you can usually only visit3――4spots in a day (they stayed at the foot of the mountain), so we decided to start with the farthest ones and work our way closer (the villa’s landlady suggested the same), seeing as many as we could.
After breakfast, around8o’clock, we set off. Not many people hike in the mountains this season to begin with, and since we started early, we could still take our time along the narrow park road, stopping to admire the oddly shaped volcanic rocks and the unique vegetation different from that outside the mountains. Along the way, we suddenly noticed patches of strange white flowers along the roadside, very different from any flowers we’d seen before. We stopped to take a closer look and were amazed to find that they were actually dewdrops clinging to an unknown type of grass, forming what looked like large patches of white flowers from afar but individual blooms up close. It was incredible—having seen dew, grass, and flowers before, we’d never encountered such a beautiful and magical sight of dew-covered “flowers.”
At Arxan’s scenic spots, we often see warning signs advising visitors to beware of ticks. A forest ranger told us that he often catches ticks, and sometimes the wind might even blow one onto your head.
The mountain weather is highly unpredictable—one moment it’s clear skies, the next it’s pouring rain. That’s when the hood of our windbreaker came in handy. On sunny days, it protected against sun and ticks; when it rained, it kept us dry. Lavender essential oil also helped a bit with repelling insects. After a few drops on my collar, cuffs, and scarf, the swarms of mosquitoes around me noticeably thinned.
Each scenic spot on the mountain has signage, and the ticket includes a map showing their locations. Our first destination was the farthest one—――the Grand Canyon. Only after walking for a while did we realize this park road actually leads to Zhalantun. Park staff told us that you can also enter the scenic area from the Zhalantun direction.
Arxan National Forest Park is actually both a forest park and a geological park. Some of the mountain’s attractions feature trees, while others showcase volcanic remnants. Attractions namedXXTianchi (Heavenly Lake),XXDi Chi (Earthly Pool),XXor simply “Lake” are actually barrier lakes formed by volcanic eruptions. In the past, they were all called “XXPaozi (pools)”—those above ground level were called “Tianchi,” and those below were called “Di Chi” or “Lake.” Each “pool,” paired with the surrounding landscape, is opened to visitors as a scenic spot. Each has its own charm. Unfortunately, at the Rhododendron Lake scenic area, we visited when the rhododendrons weren’t in bloom, so we missed a more beautiful view. We also didn’t see any cranes at the Crane Lake area. The volcanic remnants at Shitanglin were quite unique, and the heavy rain didn’t stop us from enjoying the visit.
Along the park road, there’s a particularly special attraction (marked on the park map but doesn’t require punching a hole in the ticket)――—the Turtle Back Rock. It’s easy to miss and wasn’t mentioned by other travelers online. We didn’t notice it on the way in but spotted it on the way back. The Turtle Back Rock is about half the size of a soccer field, flat and clean, looking as if it were “assembled” from several rocks a few meters in diameter. The patterns where the rocks meet really resemble a turtle’s shell.
Sitting on it feels warm and cozy—cozier than sitting on a heated kang (a traditional Korean/Chinese bed) in the northeast. I must have been really tired because once I sat down, I didn’t want to get up. Other tourists initially found my “kang-sitting” posture amusing, but after I mentioned how warm and comfortable it was, they tried it too—and agreed. Soon, everyone was sitting to rest and take photos. The very first rock I sat on was later considered the most ideal in terms of shape, size, and position, so I moved to another one to rest and let others take photos on it.
It’s said that forming the rocks into such a shape requires a complex combination of geological and natural conditions. Every visitor who passes by can’t help but marvel at nature’s artistry.
There are also several other attractions marked on the guide map but not requiring a ticket punch. Most are closed to visitors during fire prevention seasons and are guarded. Most attractions are “pure play”—no shops or vendors selling things—so it’s best to bring plenty of food and drinks.
We originally thought visiting three or four spots in one day would be tight, but unexpectedly, we managed to7cover all the spots with ease, without feeling rushed at all. We even managed to check out some of the “non-punch” roadside attractions. In total, we spent10hours exploring the mountain’s various scenic areas, covering a distance of100kilometers (including round trips). It turns out, deciding to stay on the mountain was absolutely the right choice.
To avoid driving at night and reach the mountain's base before dark, we skipped returning to Shquan Mountain Villa for a meal and headed straight down the mountain to stay in Yiershi Village nearby.63Accommodation in Yiershi Village, 91 kilometers away.
After arriving in Yiershi Village, we quickly found accommodation — standard rooms were100yuan per night, with parking available at the entrance and surveillance equipment installed.
According to locals, in a few days when college entrance exam results come out and university applications are completed, the number of tourists traveling will surge dramatically. Accommodation prices could double or even increase by3times, and parking lots will be packed. The reason there are currently fewer visitors is twofold: first, the season is a bit early and the mountains are still cold; second, compared to the past, there’s much less official spending on dining and tourism, drastically reducing the number of publicly funded travelers. This also explains why discounts are offered mostly to local tourists wherever we go.
D5 Yiershi Village――Xin Barga Left Banner――Xin Barga Right Banner――Manzhouli
After leaving Yiershi Village, our next destination was Manzhouli along the western route.
The reason for choosing this road was that it passed through sparsely populated areas where we could enjoy pristine grassland scenery. Our concern was the lack of online information about the road conditions. Before setting off, we asked some locals who all knew about the road but most couldn’t provide specifics — only one driver said it was passable. So we set off with some apprehension.
Near Yiershi Village, there were two attractions strongly recommended by locals: the Arxan Port and Rose Peak. Worried about potential poor road conditions to Manzhouli, and since we had other border crossings planned later in our trip, we decided to skip Arxan Port to save time. But we did stop briefly at Rose Peak, taking in the view from the foot of the mountain and snapping a few photos.
This section of the road seemed to have been newly built — it passes through Xin Barga Left Banner and Xin Barga Right Banner, which locals refer to as the “East Banner” and “West Banner.” There were toll stations, but no tolls were charged. The road condition was unexpectedly good, nearly reaching quasi-expressway standards and almost running parallel to the old road. At intervals, the two roads connected, likely to allow vehicles on the old road to switch to the new one. We drove for a while, enjoying increasingly beautiful scenery, but roadside guardrails often blocked the view when taking photos from the car. We didn’t dare stop for too long, so after traveling50kilometers, we switched back to the old road. The old road was certainly not as good as the new one, but the advantage was that all vehicles had moved to the new road, leaving the old one completely empty — we could stop anywhere, for as long as we liked.
The scenery was breathtakingly beautiful. We breathed in the fresh air of the wilderness, took photos of the landscape and wildflowers from various angles, and struck countless poses for pictures. Just as we were having the time of our lives, we spotted a horned animal running in the distance, instantly reminding me of the legend of the “Blue Wolf and White Deer.” Could we actually be lucky enough to see a white deer of the grasslands? It didn’t seem likely. Recalling a park staff member at Arxan holding a roe deer antler earlier, I guessed we’d seen a roe deer.
20kilometers took us nearly two hours to drive, during which we only encountered one tractor and no other vehicles.
After having our fill of fun, it was time to get back on the new road. But then we encountered a small incident: at an unmanned toll station, the entrance from the old road to the new one was blocked by an overhead crane truck, with several large trucks stuck behind. My husband got out to talk to the crane driver and was informed by the toll station staff that the crane’s key was with their supervisor, who was out of town. Later, we learned that the crane had been placed there specifically to block large vehicles, but no one had anticipated smaller cars bypassing the new road to use the old one. We noticed that the space between the two posts of the roadside sign should’ve been wide enough for a car to pass through, but the ground was uneven. Fortunately, our entrenching tool came in handy — with a few swift scoops, we leveled the path enough to slowly drive the car under the sign and past the obstacle. The blocked truck drivers had hoped our commotion would prompt the crane to be moved, so they were quite disappointed when we only solved our own problem.
After passing the toll station, we drove forward another43kilometers and came across the little-known site of the “Nomonhan War.” Since we still had time, we decided to take a detour and check it out.
At that moment, a tour group happened to be visiting, so we joined them and bought two group tickets.
The Nomonhan War was actually a sizable conflict.
Back then, Japan intended to attack the Mongolian People’s Republic in this region, seize its eastern area along the Halha River, and use it as a stepping stone for further invasion into the Soviet Far East.1939, Japanese and Mongolian forces clashed in the area. The Japanese believed the time was right for war and dispatched troops to engage the Mongolians. In accordance with the Soviet-Mongolian Mutual Assistance Pact, the Soviet government began deploying forces to the area.
The Soviet Union, Japan, and Mongolia continuously reinforced their troops in the Nomonhan region and launched numerous aerial and ground offensives over the course of135days, fighting fiercely. The Japanese military even used biological weapons against the Soviet-Mongolian forces, but the war ultimately ended in victory for the Soviet army.
The Battle of Nomonhan has been called by Japanese historians “the greatest defeat in the history of the Japanese Army.” It also left a deep psychological scar on Japanese soldiers.
It’s said that the original China-Mongolia border was the Halha River, but after Japan’s defeat in the Nomonhan Campaign, they ceded a piece of land in a peace agreement, resulting in a section of the Halha River now flowing within the territory of the Mongolian People’s Republic.
At the Nomonhan Battle Site Museum, we saw written accounts, photos, charts, artifacts, and weapons used during the war. Many exhibits were war relics found and donated by local herders while grazing on the grasslands.
Outside the museum on the grassland, there were some airplanes and tanks on display as exhibits, though they didn’t look like they had actually been through battle. I asked a museum guide if those were the original tanks, and she replied that they were replicas — the real ones had been destroyed during the mass steel production campaign of 1958.
At first, I was quite puzzled—why is the museum so well arranged, yet the famously significant Khalkhin Gol War site remains relatively unknown in China? After asking the guide, I finally understood: First, the main combatants at the time were Soviet, Japanese, and Mongolian forces, while the Chinese military only had the Third Route Army of the Northeast Anti-Japanese United Army, led by General Li Zhaolin and Detachment Commander Wang Minggui, who launched an offensive on the Nenhai Plain to divert Japanese troops from Khalkhin Gol. There wasn’t much to boast about in terms of propaganda. Second, the local climate is extremely cold for long periods, and the museum is only open during July and August each year, which makes travel agencies uninterested and visitor numbers low.
By the time we left, the tour group had already gone. Looking in the car’s rearview mirror, I saw the museum gate closing, and the guide had also gotten on his bicycle.
After leaving the Khalkhin Gol War site, we continued driving westward, still surrounded by endless scenery and making frequent stops along the way. After passing through Xin Barga Left Banner (East Banner), there was5kilometers of gravel road, followed by100more kilometers of perfectly straight highway with incredibly open views in all directions. The road conditions were absolutely better than one could imagine.
Driving on such a road, if you’re just trying to make good time, it’s very easy to get drowsy because the road is so straight—you can see several kilometers ahead, the road looks like a thin line, and distant cars appear no bigger than grains of rice. Moreover, we drove140more kilometers and saw absolutely no more than10vehicles the entire time.
The grassland we passed through on this stretch could truly be described as “boundless.” Looking out as far as the eye could see, aside from the single “line” in the distance, everything was lush green grass.――There wasn’t a single tree, person, or even another vehicle in sight. For some reason, we also didn’t see any herds. But if you only focus on the grassland itself, you’d be missing out. Because the white clouds that accompany the grassland are also a sight to behold—one you definitely shouldn’t overlook. A grassland without the contrast of white clouds feels lonely, monotonous, and too serene. The green of the grassland only comes alive and becomes true scenery when combined with the beauty of the clouds. This gave me a deeper understanding and personal insight into why herders always sing about both the grassland and the clouds in their songs.
The white clouds over the grassland take on countless ever-changing forms. Sitting in the car, I admired the poetic shapes of the clouds against the green backdrop, imagining the fantastical stories unfolding in the sky above. And as the shapes of the clouds shifted, so did the narratives, turning the tales into a continuous drama that made my journey all the more enriching.
About40kilometers north of West Banner, we arrived at the “Golden Coast” scenic area by the shores of Hulun Lake (also called “Dalai Lake”).
The Golden Coast scenic area is located at the southwestern corner of Hulun Lake, primarily featuring the lake as its main attraction. Upon entering, we asked the ticket-checking staff what activities were worth doing, and the reply was: look at the lake and eat fish.
Perhaps it was off-season, as the lakeside felt rather desolate. A few cars sat quietly parked, some tourists lazily played cards, and a couple of people were taking photos by the lake.
As soon as our car entered the grassland, the windshield was swarmed with mosquitoes. Out of habit, I flicked on the windshield wipers, which only made things worse.――What had been a slightly transparent windshield became completely obscured. But driving on the grass felt like gliding on a carpet—it was actually quite fun.
The lake water was dark and not very appealing, but occasionally, I spotted some undistinguishable birds—perhaps gulls—flying over the distant lake surface, which caught my attention for a while. Unfortunately, our camera was too poor to zoom in.
On the shore, a few Mongolian yurts lay quietly on the grass, with people coming in and out from time to time. I guessed those were the places to “eat fish.”
By the lake, there was a type of unnamed bird with a very pleasant call, but it was very sensitive. I tried several times to take a photo but never succeeded—not even managing to get a clear look at what it looked like.
We drove a bit further along the dirt road within the scenic area and stopped for a while in front of an ovoo. Before this, I had only heard about ovoo but never seen one. This time, not only did I see one up close, but I also learned about some local customs related to ovoos, which felt like a rewarding experience.
At the other end of the scenic area, there was what appeared to be a place where fishing boats come ashore, leaving behind some large, well-patterned shells. We picked up a few with nice textures and intact shapes as souvenirs—it felt like the trip was worthwhile after all.
It was nearly evening when we left Golden Coast. We drove for another100kilometers before reaching our planned accommodation for the day:――Manzhouli.
It gets dark very late in Manzhouli. By the time we arrived, it was already7:30 in the evening, but the sun was still high in the sky. So instead of checking into a hotel right away, we drove straight to the Matryoshka Square.
The main feature of Matryoshka Square is the various large and small buildings shaped like matryoshka dolls. The larger structures are mostly restaurants and privately run shops. When we were there, some of the shops were already closed, but the ones still open sold Russian tourist souvenirs. The smaller buildings were painted with images of celebrities or cartoon characters for visitors to admire and take photos with. My husband and I each took pictures with our favorite “idols,” and before long, the sun quickly set for the day.
When we returned to downtown Manzhouli to find a place to stay, it took a bit of effort. The main roads were lined with tall buildings and plenty of hotels, but it wasn’t convenient to stop anywhere and ask around. Later, we turned onto a side street and quickly found a privately run hotel. To our great surprise, the standard room was only100yuan per night, the conditions were quite good, and there was parking available.
After settling in, we prepared to go out for a meal. The hotel owner’s wife recommended that we must try hand-torn lamb while in Manzhouli, and introduced us to a restaurant she often frequents. We walked quite a distance before finding a place that served hand-torn lamb (not sure if it was the one she mentioned—anyway, the name was similar), and spent98yuan to order a portion of hand-torn lamb, asking the cook to make it tender.
The hand-torn lamb wasn’t particularly delicious, but the large array of condiments served alongside looked quite appetizing. While waiting for the lamb to be cooked and served, we dipped other dishes in the seasonings, which turned out to have their own unique flavors. The restaurant also gave us a complimentary plate of fried peanuts.
The night view in Manzhouli is stunning—the searchlights illuminate the Russian-style buildings on both sides of the road brilliantly. Earlier, before our meal, many shops were still open, and quite a few Russian tourists shopped skillfully on the streets. However, Chinese shoppers didn’t seem to be as warmly welcomed. By the time we finished dinner, there were very few people left on the street. The bustling market had quietly faded away, leaving behind a tranquil night awaiting a new dawn.
D6 Manzhouli――Heishantou――Enhe
Early the next morning, we first went to visit the National Border Monument. It’s a “must-see” attraction in Manzhouli, so it was extremely crowded. Tour groups, led by guides, lined up and walked into the scenic area one after another. The inside was already packed, yet more people kept coming in from outside. I felt that those inside might not even see things as clearly as we did from the outside.80The ticket cost one yuan, and many people said it wasn’t worth it.
We didn’t go in but instead walked around the shops near the National Border Monument. Most of the items in the stores were things I’d seen on Harbin’s Central Avenue. The shoppers were mostly elderly people brought in by tour guides. Both buyers and sellers were busy. We walked around to the back of the store, where there were also a few shops. I thought maybe things might be cheaper here since they weren’t right by the roadside.
Sure enough, as soon as I entered the shop, I was surrounded by enthusiastic vendors who pulled me over to see their goods, saying I was their first customer of the day and offering me an opening discount. I browsed around—the variety of goods was similar to the previous shops, but the prices were indeed a bit lower, and because the vendors were eager to make a first sale, bargaining was easier. After buying a few items I thought were good deals, I walked out and entered the neighboring shop.
That’s when I realized the two neighboring shops had different purposes—the one where I had just shopped sold Russian goods to Chinese customers, while this one sold Chinese goods to Russian customers. The shop selling Chinese goods had a poor shopping environment, with merchandise haphazardly displayed, mostly consisting of low-end goods akin to those found at mainland street stalls. I had no interest in browsing.
By the time we left the National Border Monument, it was already past10in the morning. We returned to the city center intending to buy a few videotapes for our camera before leaving. The streets of Manzhouli were lively during the day, much like any other city. The only difference was seeing many pedestrians who were Russians and off-road vehicles with Russian license plates. The cars with Russian plates had the steering wheel on the right, looked quite worn-out, but were surprisingly sturdy and performed “like a beast.” These cars were clearly here for shopping—their roof racks were piled high with goods.
After refueling and leaving Manzhouli, it was already around noon11. Our next destination was to drive along the China-Soviet border toward Heishantou, about220kilometers away, then via Wuka and Qika, and finally stay overnight in the Russian ethnic township of Enhe.
This was a rural road and also a border defense road. Though the road quality wasn’t high, there was very little traffic, making it quite pleasant to drive. The scenery along the way was nice, but there were plenty of mosquitoes and a type of insect called ?蜢. Every time we stopped to take photos, I would constantly wave a scarf dabbed with lavender essential oil—otherwise, the consequences would definitely have been “severe.” Along the road, we also saw two border guards riding horses along the highway. We weren’t sure if they were patrolling or just using the horses as transportation.
Although many herders on the grassland now use motorcycles to tend their flocks, horseback herding is still common, and some herders even bring dogs along. The sheepdogs take their duties very seriously. When we stopped to take photos, one seemed to sense we were a threat to its flock and kept barking at us but never left its post. Even when the shepherd rode away on horseback, the dog refused to leave and stayed there staring at us. Only when it decided we posed no threat to its owner and the flock did it finally trot back to its master.
When our car passed a flock of sheep without a sheepdog, we happened to be able to pull off the road and stop for a break. I wrapped my lavender-scented scarf around my head, got out of the car, and prepared to approach the flock to take some photos.
The sheep, spotting a strange creature, all turned their backsides to me and ignored me. So I crouched down and waited quietly for them to turn around. After a while, they forgot about my presence, gradually turned their heads to graze, and came closer and closer to me. Then one sheep noticed me crouching in the grass and seemed puzzled: Hmm? What’s this? Somehow, it must have told the others, because one by one, the sheep stopped grazing and lifted their heads to look at me. After a moment, seeing that I wasn’t moving and posed no threat, a few braver ones lowered their heads to continue eating, while a few timid ones moved farther away to graze. Only the first sheep that spotted me remained frozen, staring at me, trying to figure out what this sudden addition to the grassland was and whether it was a threat.
After taking the photos, I really wanted to take a picture of myself riding a horse and herding sheep, but the shepherd said his horse was unruly and didn’t allow me to ride it.
Just as we were about to leave, another car pulled up—it was a young couple working in Shanghai. They had flown from Shanghai to Inner Mongolia and rented a car locally for their trip. This also explained why there were so many car rental shops in Manzhouli and why you rarely see cars with out-of-town plates in Inner Mongolia.
The couple asked us for directions. I showed them the “homework” I had done, and they were interested enough to take photos of the hand-drawn travel route sketch I had made on their phones.
By the way, after traveling around eastern Inner Mongolia for a week, I met some tourists but almost no cars with out-of-town plates. Most travelers used one of two methods: either renting a car from a rental shop and driving themselves, or hiring a local driver with a car who also acted as a guide. The first method’s advantage is flexibility—you can go wherever you want and stop wherever you like. The downside is that you have to arrange your own meals and accommodations, and it’s hard to handle emergencies. The second method’s advantage is that these driver-guides are “professional,” familiar with the local area, and usually drive jeeps or SUVs. They arrange meals, accommodations, and visits to attractions—you don’t have to worry about anything, just follow them. During peak tourist season, traveling with a “local guide” can save a lot of time and reduce hassle, and accommodations are taken care of. The downside is that your schedule for food, fun, and activities isn’t entirely up to you, and you may have to compromise on accommodation conditions.
Perhaps it’s precisely because cars with out-of-town plates are rarely seen here that we were chased by a police car for the first time in our lives. After pulling over, the three officers in the police car thoroughly inspected our vehicle, even checking the trunk. Fortunately, we’re law-abiding citizens, and they found nothing wrong.
After saying goodbye to the Shanghai couple, we continued toward Heishantou. We made a few more stops along the way and arrived in Heishantou around16.
Heishantou is about150kilometers from our next destination, Enhe, and there are two routes to get there. Our plan was to take the western route along the border, passing through Wuka and Qika to reach Enhe.
After entering Heishantou Town, we found the road very difficult to drive on. We asked the locals and were told that the road to Wuka was all like this. After driving a bit further, we saw two cars coming from the opposite direction. We asked about the road conditions, and they all said there was a section where we’d have to ford a river. They thought our car could “probably” make it, but no one said “definitely.” We drove for about4kilometers and felt the road conditions were too poor—even if there were scenic views, we probably wouldn’t be able to enjoy them. Moreover, even if we could manage the river ford, we couldn’t guarantee reaching Enhe before dark under such conditions. If the car broke down after fording the river, it would be even more troublesome. After considering this, we decided to turn back and take the “alternative route” I had planned――via Erguna (Labudalin) to Enhe. It was also150kilometers, but the road conditions were excellent. By then it was already17o’clock, and we estimated we’d reach Enhe before dark (it gets dark around20o’clock here).
With that, we sped up and soon passed Erguna. On the way to Enhe, we passed a wetland area with nice scenery. Since it was still early, we stopped two or three more times to take a short break. We arrived in Enhe at19o’clock and30minutes—the sky was still light.
Enhe is said to be a settlement of Russian descendants, but after several generations, the young people there no longer show distinct Russian features. We walked around the village and found a decent family-run “guesthouse” with a yard for parking, indoor bathroom, and Russian-style decor—――“Ben Niao Ru Jia.”
“Ben Niao Ru Jia” is considered a fairly large guesthouse in the village, with various types of rooms in both the front building and backyard. The landlady said it might have cost about400million yuan to build, and they used parts of it as they completed construction. The food here is delicious, and the portions are shockingly large—usually one dish is enough for two people. We ordered two dishes, and perhaps because they were so tasty, we almost finished them. We also ordered one baked flatbread, which looked similar to the steamed buns common in the northeast. When it was served, it was also a huge portion, which startled us. But the bread was very soft and tasty, didn’t harden even after a few days, and we kept eating it for days stored in plastic bags. Breakfast for15yuan was filling. The additive-free milk and blueberry jam were especially delicious.
Enhe is a quaint little village with mostly wooden houses in Russian style. While looking for a place to stay, we visited several homes—they were all clean. The old residential area had quite aged houses and muddy roads; the new residential area seemed built specifically for tourism, with all newer houses. Some had just been completed without running water yet, and some were still under construction. Aside from guesthouses and hotels, the town also had a few bakeries and souvenir shops. Anywhere that offered lodging also served meals. Most places were run by the landladies, while the “bosses”—the husbands—were the hardworking “helpers,” always ready to act as soon as their wives gave instructions.
The nights in Enhe are very peaceful. Perhaps it’s not yet the right season, as the streetlights weren’t on. The only places with lights were the restaurants still open for business. We deliberately walked to darker areas to stargaze, and the stars in the sky were clearly visible. The nights are very short here—the sky doesn’t get completely dark until eight or nine in the evening, and it starts getting light again around two or three in the morning.
There’s a small river near the village where many people go to wash their cars. Washing the car in Enhe was part of our plan, so early in the morning we also drove the car to the river. By the riverside, there was a herd of horses grazing on the grass. Looking around, the tranquil village, clear river water, blue sky, white clouds, and leisurely horses gave off a feeling of a paradise on earth.
By the river, we saw a car with Qingdao plates also washing its vehicle. We assumed they were tourists, but it turned out they were locals who had just registered the car in Qingdao. As we were talking, two men led a sheep over, saying they were going to slaughter it by the river. The sheep, upon seeing the couple washing their car, started heading toward them, as if sensing it was about to be killed. It jumped and bleated pitifully toward them. The couple said the sheep had been brought over by them in this very car from somewhere else yesterday, which was why the car was so dirty. After the men left with the sheep, the couple called their friends to come watch the slaughtering—it was truly cruel. Poor sheep, how it must have wished this car could take it back to the familiar place it came from.
Just after the slaughtering incident, a middle-aged man riding a motorcycle arrived. Judging by his appearance, he seemed to have Russian ancestry. As soon as he arrived, he shouted, “Everything has changed, everything has changed, it wasn’t like this before!” Then he told us that he grew up here, worked elsewhere for decades, and had now returned to find everything different—even the river course had changed, and there was less water than before. He pointed to a nearly completed construction site and said that during floods in the past, this whole area would be underwater. This made me think that pristine natural scenery will become increasingly rare. Perhaps in a few years when visiting Enhe, one might wake up thinking they’re just spending a lazy Sunday at home.
D7 Enhe――Hawuer River Park――Shiwei――Moerdaoga
Leaving Enhe and heading north for about20kilometers, we arrived at Hawuer River Park. Perhaps due to the season, the park was closed and not selling tickets. However, there were several cars with local plates parked at the entrance.
These were vehicles belonging to local guides who had brought tourists from other places.
Although the park was closed, a gap had been pried open in the fence, and visitors were coming in and out through it.
We entered the park through the gap and climbed up along a newly built path through the birch forest, eventually reaching the mountaintop. From the wooden viewing platform at the top, we had a panoramic view of the Hawuer River Wetlands. The winding Hawuer River mostly flowed in “S” shapes, as if artificially carved—an amazing sight. It’s said there are over sixty bends in the visible stretch of the Hawuer River, though I didn’t count them all.
On the way down, we took another path, also through the birch forest. Along the trail, there were displays of hunting tools, animal information, and animal models to explore. Seeing those hunting tools and animal models inevitably brought to mind the cruelty of animal hunting, giving us a somewhat eerie feeling.
After leaving Hahu River Park, we drove northward for about50kilometers and arrived at our next destination――Shiwei around noon.
Like Enhe, Shiwei is also a small town with a Russian flavor, a gathering place for descendants of Russians, and is said to be the birthplace of the Mongolian people. It is more famous than Enhe, with its landmark being the troika at the entrance of the town.
Unlike Enhe, however, the commercial atmosphere here is overly strong, with signboards hanging all along the streets, making it hard to feel the original simplicity; the touts are slick-talking, making people reluctant to strike up a conversation.
Following the road signs, we reached the border port. The border guards said they were closed for lunch and would reopen at 2:30 p.m. Standing at the gate and looking inside, the area wasn’t large, and aside from the view opposite being blocked by buildings, everything else was visible. Since the scenery on the other side could also be seen elsewhere without coming to the port, we didn’t want to waste another two or three hours waiting for it to open. We took a photo at the gate and then headed to another attraction,――the viewing platform.
Standing on the viewing platform, an expansive border landscape unfolded before us. The Russian town across the river looked dusty and very raw. But around the viewing platform on our side were small restaurants and shops selling tourist souvenirs and local specialties—it no longer felt any different from other tourist spots. We wanted to buy a guide map to see what places were worth visiting, but when we picked one up, it turned out to be more of an advertisement than a guide, with little actual “guidance.” However, we unexpectedly found that the “Ben Niao Ru Jia” guesthouse where we stayed in Enhe yesterday was also on the map.
The road to Linjiang wasn’t very good, but the scenery was nice. Along the way, we met a local man riding a motorcycle with a girl, taking photos of the scenery everywhere. He introduced himself as surnamed Liu, from Shiwei, and warmly invited us to stay at his place in Shiwei, leaving us his phone number. We asked him about the situation in Linjiang, and he gave us a very detailed introduction.
Driving to the foot of a mountain, we saw two cars parked ahead and figured there must be some scenery to see, so we stopped too.
One car had no one in it—the occupants had gone up the mountain to enjoy the view—while the people in the other car were gathered anxiously around it.――Their car had stalled after driving through water.
That’s when we noticed that not far ahead of us was a section of the road where vehicles had to drive through water. That car had passed through in the morning when there was no water, but when they returned from Linjiang just now, they saw water on the road. Thinking it wouldn’t be deep, they drove through, only to stall. In this place, with no villages nearby in any direction, even if a rescue vehicle set off immediately, it would probably take until evening to arrive. Slowly, more people gathered, but none knew how to fix the car.
I climbed up the mountain to enjoy the view. The mountain path wasn’t paved—it was trodden out by walkers. The view from the mountain was fantastic, stretching as far as the eye could see, both open and atmospheric. Just as we were enjoying the scenery, we met the same Mr. Liu from earlier, who had brought the girl back to take photos. I was surprised and then noticed there were wheel tracks on the mountain—it was just that we hadn’t recognized the path. He was also puzzled why we hadn’t gone to Linjiang but had come here instead. After I told him what had happened down the mountain, he immediately said, “No problem, I’ll go down and take a look in a bit.” After taking some photos, we each made our way back down the mountain the way we had come. I scrambled down as fast as I could but still arrived a bit late—just in time to hear the sound of the car starting and cheers. Sure enough, it was just a small issue, though unfortunately, I didn’t get to see how he fixed it. The people in that car thanked me and Mr. Liu profusely. It felt good to have helped—even a small good deed brings its own reward.
This Mr. Liu was truly kind. Not only did he help fix the car, but he also came to scout the way for us. By then, several cars had gathered on both sides of the flooded section, and since we had left, another car had broken down after driving through the water, making everyone even more hesitant to cross. Mr. Liu rode his motorcycle back and forth through the water, showing everyone how deep it was. But still, no one dared to cross. Then he said to me, “There’s another road, known only to locals, that leads to Linjiang. I can lead the way.” We followed him onto that mountain path. This road was only used by locals in spring when the lower road was blocked by ice floes. It was completely unpaved, formed purely by “many feet walking the same path.” During the summer fire prevention season, the road was blocked off with barbed wire. Mr. Liu, riding his motorcycle at the front, led us to the barbed wire. Very skillfully, he unhooked the wire mesh and told us that if we followed this path, we would reach Linjiang.
After saying goodbye to Mr. Liu, we drove on for a while. The mountain was quiet—no cars, no people. The road was really bad, full of potholes from heavy vehicles, and several times we almost bottomed out. We thought that if the car broke down here, rescue would be difficult. The more we thought about it, the more uneasy we felt. Well, better safe than sorry—we decided to turn back the way we came. My husband, who is a pretty good driver, managed to turn the car around on that terrible road, secured the barbed wire, and drove back down the mountain to Shiwei. We planned to head to our next destination,――Moerdaoga.
Originally, we had planned to stay in Linjiang that day to enjoy the scenery, ride horses, hike up the mountain to watch the sunset and sunrise. Since we didn’t make it to Linjiang, everything else was still possible, but not being able to ride a horse became a regret. Just as we were about to leave Shiwei, we saw what looked like an honest elderly man riding a majestic bay horse toward us (the horses here are all commercial ones for tourists to ride). So we stopped to ask about the price, which was the same as in Linjiang,50yuan per hour, and so we spontaneously decided to fulfill our horseback riding plan here.
His family was run by his daughter-in-law. We asked for two horses, and she took us to the pasture to ride.
There were a lot of mosquitoes in the pasture. As soon as the horses stepped onto the grass, mosquitoes swarmed them. The two horses belonged to the same family and knew each other—they seemed to have something to say to each other and didn’t want to be separated, completely ignoring my commands. The horse owner said we could hit the horses if they didn’t obey. I gave one a smack, and it did behave a bit better. But in the end, I couldn’t bring myself to hit hard (you’ve got to respect the owner when hitting their horse), and seeing me act gently, it still didn’t take me seriously, making me feel bullied by the horse. Later, we felt the pasture wasn’t big enough to really gallop around, so we decided to move to another spot. While the other horse wandered off, I nudged my horse and urged it to follow. This time, it was obedient and trotted along happily.
Riding a horse was actually quite thrilling, especially because it wasn’t very “dedicated”—it was always thinking about “playing.” Whenever it saw other horses, it wanted to go over to them. When I told it to move, it even circled in place rather than follow. It simply wouldn’t obey. Its owner had to shout and scold to finally lead us away from the herd to an open area by the river. We rode for a while, took some photos, and as it started getting dark and raining, we ended our horseback riding. When it heard we were going home, the horse happily trotted back, no longer mischievous. Throughout the ride, the owner’s wife kept following us, and although we were paying customers, I still felt a bit sorry for her. So when settling the fee, I didn’t quibble and even gave her an extra50yuan, which made her very happy as she thanked us.
It was already 5 p.m. when we left Shiwei, and the92-kilometer journey to Moerdaoga was rainy the whole way. We passed by several paid attractions, which were either closed for the day or not in season—we’re not sure which. Also, based on our experience along the way, paid attractions weren’t as worthwhile as free ones, so we didn’t feel like we missed out by not going in.
Moerdaoga is a forestry town. We arrived at 7 p.m. The peak tourist season hadn’t started yet, so there weren’t many people in town. While looking for a place to stay, we drove around the town a few times. The main roads and the high-rises along them were “very modern,” but the other roads were in poor condition, and the buildings were dilapidated. It seemed many of the small houses still in use were quite old.
We first went to inquire at a relatively large hotel in town. The staff were not welcoming at all, moving slowly as if they were reluctant to serve us. We couldn’t exactly be chased away, so we tactfully went to another hotel. The attitude here was completely different—the front desk was very warm and welcoming. Although the price was the most expensive of our trip (168yuan), it was still cheaper than the previous hotel. It turned out the earlier hotel was “state-run,” where staff got paid the same whether they had guests or not, so they found it troublesome to deal with small groups like us.
We quickly settled our accommodation issue. When we went out to eat, we encountered similar situations where places didn’t want to bother with small groups, but we didn’t care—we ordered and ate anyway. By the time we finished dinner, it was completely dark.
D8 Moerdaoga――Erguna――Yakeshi
Coming to Moerdaoga in June is a bit early for tourism. The main activities here are mushroom picking, tasting wild blueberries, rafting, and visiting forest parks, with the best time being July and August each year. By then, the fruits have ripened, the scenery is fresh and beautiful, and rafting enthusiasts won’t find the water too cold.
Before leaving, I bought some blueberry jam, dried blueberries, and dairy products at a small shop near the hotel to take home, and I thought the prices were quite reasonable. When I checked the prices of these items online later, they were similar to those at the shop. But at the shop, you can taste before buying and check the production dates, whereas when buying online, you have to rely on the seller’s honesty.
The drive from Moerdaoga to Erguna is about200kilometers, and the road signs are not very clear. We asked several people after departing from Moerdaoga and even took a wrong turn before finally finding the right direction.
It’s a forest road in the Greater Khingan Mountains area — the road isn’t very wide, but the condition is decent. For200kilometers or so, we barely saw any other vehicles.
The car moved through the birch forests, and looking ahead, it felt like viewing the landscape through a telescope: up close, the scenery is narrow and rather monotonous, but in the distance, it’s completely different. Compared to the roads we’d traveled over the past few days, the view here was entirely unique.
In the afternoon, we arrived at the Genhe Wetland Scenic Area, located in Erguna.
This was the most crowded scenic spot we visited during our trip, in terms of both people and vehicles. At the parking lot, it felt quite hot, and I wanted to change into something cooler before heading up the mountain. But seeing people coming down the mountain all dressed warmly — several women even wearing thick shawls — I figured it wouldn’t be too hot up top, so I switched to wearing a windbreaker instead.
The mountain was indeed cool, and it even started raining quite heavily. The viewing platform at the highest point offered a broad panorama, but the distant mountains and nearby waters were all shrouded in thick dark clouds, losing much of their original charm. Still, groups of tourists kept coming and going under the guidance of their tour leaders, keeping the area lively.
The Genhe Wetland, known as the “Number One Wetland in Asia,” is currently the largest and most well-preserved wetland in China in terms of original ecology. Looking down from the viewing platform, the wetland scenery bore some resemblance to what we’d seen at the viewing platform in the Hawuhe River Park: many of the winding waterways also took on a “S” shape, though more often they twisted freely, flowing like graceful ribbons. The view was much more expansive than at Hawuhe River, and the momentum even greater.
They say: whether a landscape is beautiful or not depends entirely on the guide’s storytelling. The guides shared one beautiful legend or story after another based on the shapes of the winding waterways, prompting visitors to rush to stand at various “legendary” spots for photos, hoping the tales would come true. For example, standing in the middle of the “S” shape for a photo means turning the “S” into a “$”, bringing wealth.
The scenic paths are newly built wooden boardwalks, and visitors can only walk along them while sightseeing. The boardwalks are elevated above the ground, and the guide said that space was left for snakes to crawl through. I hadn’t expected there to be so many mosquitoes and grasshoppers on the mountain, so I hadn’t prepared any special protection. Although the windbreaker helped a bit against rain and insects, I still got a few bites.
After spending two hours at the Genhe Wetland, we headed to our planned accommodation for the night:――Yakeshi.
Originally, we had planned to bypass Hailar from Erguna to get to Yakeshi, but a section of the road was under repair, making it very difficult to drive with almost no signage. While asking for directions, we happened to meet a local driver going the same way, so we followed him toward Hailar, got on the Haiman Expressway, and then turned toward Yakeshi.
On the way from Hailar to Yakeshi, we passed the Dayan Coal Mine. The Dayan Mine was the site of my last project before I left the surveying field — that was28years ago. Now, it looks completely different, with no trace of its former self.
D9 Yakeshi――Zhalantun――(Arong Banner)――(Qiqihar)――Harbin
On the final day of our trip, we had just one activity: visiting the Zhalantun Suspension Bridge.
We set off from Yakeshi6After a few hours, guided by the navigation, we arrived at the entrance of the Zhalantun Suspension Bridge Park.
Zhalantun Suspension Bridge Park is a free public park, named after the “suspension bridge” within it. The Zhalantun Suspension Bridge was originally built1905in [year missing], serving as an entertainment venue exclusively for Russian aristocrats at the time.
Currently, there are only two suspension bridges over a hundred years old in the world—one is in Irkutsk, Russia, and the other is right here in Zhalantun.
The suspension bridge is suspended by two large iron cables and 42 smaller ones, with a wooden deck that gently sways as pedestrians walk across, creating a relaxing and pleasant experience.
In addition to the suspension bridge, the park’s gardens, arched bridges, and the One-Pillar Pavilion are also quite unique. Especially the One-Pillar Pavilion, which stands like a mushroom, enduring wind and rain without tilting or collapsing—an astonishing sight. Though the park is free, it is clean, elegant, and well-preserved ecologically. By the One-Pillar Pavilion, we even spotted a beautiful little squirrel running around.
After staying for an hour, we left Zhalantun. We passed through Arong Banner (Naji Village) and Qiqihar on our way to Harbin for a short break.
D10 Harbin――Dalian
During our stay in Harbin, we kept ourselves busy. First, we visited Pingfang Park and learned about the development history of Harbin’s Pingfang District through stone carvings. Then we went to see the site of the “Japanese Unit 731 Bacteriological Warfare Unit.”
These two places, where I often played as a child, now show no trace of their past and have been updated into leisure and sightseeing spots. What’s infuriating is that the staff at the “Unit 731” site were utterly unprofessional, clueless about everything.
After resting for two days and three nights, we drove non-stop back to Dalian.
Closing Remarks:This was a very enjoyable self-driving trip, covering a total distance of4800kilometers, lasting10days, with total expenses of about6000RMB, broken down as follows:
Fuel cost 2000RMB
Toll fees RMB 1000Accommodation
RMB Meals1000RMB
Eat a meal 1000Yuan
Attraction tickets 1000Yuan
In summary, the takeaways from this trip are:
1.The scenery in Inner Mongolia is not limited to parks and scenic areas—views along the way are also very pleasant.
2.Viewing the grassland landscape isn’t just about the “grass”—it’s best appreciated when paired with the “clouds.”
3.While driving, you’ll often encounter herds of horses, cattle, and sheep crossing the road. Be patient and wait without honking to avoid startling them.
4.Accommodation hygiene is generally reliable, so it’s not necessary to stay at large or bustling places. Some hotels tucked away in alleys offer better value. The best choice is: stay at smaller hotels in big places, and larger ones in small places.
5. People in Inner Mongolia are extremely hospitable. Whether a transaction is successful or not, they won’t show displeasure—it’s truly a case of “business may fail, but friendship remains.” They will try their best to accommodate even your “unusual” requests.
6. When dining out, portion sizes are very generous. Dishes similar to a “harvest platter” are basically served in a whole basin—two people might not even finish one dish. Tissues are charged separately at one yuan per pack, so you may want to bring your own.
7. Everywhere we went, the boss’s wife was in charge while the boss “worked under her.” The women were all very capable, personally handling guest reception, payments, and bookkeeping. They kept an eye on everything, listened carefully, never stopped talking, and were always on the move—both commanders and fighters, truly impressive.
8. “Doing your homework” was a key factor in the success of this trip.
1.Planning your itinerary and being ready to adjust routes can help you avoid retracing your steps and allow you to quickly get back on track if unexpected situations like road or weather issues arise.
2.Know the different names for the same location.
In Inner Mongolia, many places have two names. While traveling, the name used for the same place may vary on different road sections.