The 20-Year-Old Que'er Mountain —— Fudan Mountaineering Team's 2014 Ascent Log
I am an undergraduate from the School of Management at Fudan University, Class of 2012. I joined the Fudan Mountaineering Team in my freshman year. In July 2013, I summited the 5,355-meter Third Peak of Mount Siguniang. This year, after leading the Beijing winter training camp over the winter break, I became the team captain. In April, I formed the team, and in May and June, we trained intensively, preparing to climb the 6,168-meter Xiongfeng — Que'er Mountain — located in Dege County, Garzê Prefecture, Sichuan Province, in mid-July. The final team had six members: a freshman, graduate students, a postdoc, an exchange student from the National University of Singapore, and a senior, making for a well-rounded group.
Day 1 · July 11 · Sunny
At 6:00 AM, we set off from the cold night of Kangding on a bus bound for Garzê. The route was Kangding–G318–Xinduqiao–S215–Bamei–S303–Luhuo–G317–Garzê. We arrived in Garzê at 5:00 PM. Upon disembarking, we met our coach, Coach Xu Lao Yao, and Captain Wang, as well as another alpine-style trio led by slacklining master Chen Hui. We checked into a basic lodge near the bus station. After dinner, we purchased a large amount of food calculated for six days and nine people during the climb. Shu and Siyang went to the market to buy base camp food. Glenn, Jin Wogei, Arthur, and I went to the supermarket for travel food, high-altitude food, and personal rations. We bought the most of two big boxes of instant noodles. Before bed, everyone in our room learned how to tie a cow’s tail and an ice axe wrist strap from Lao Yao. We looked at photos of Que'er Mountain on his phone, feeling filled with anticipation.
Day 2 · July 12 · Sunny
After breakfast, we continued shopping at the market and supermarket for any missing supplies. At 9:00 AM, carrying a large amount of gear, we took two vehicles and set off along G317, crossing the Yalong River into Dege County. We stopped in Manigange to refuel and refill gas, where we picked up the other two coaches and collected the rented high-altitude boots and crampons. I mistakenly chose a pair of high-altitude boots that were a bit too big. At 12:00 PM, we arrived at the entrance of the Yulong Lhatso Scenic Area (Xinluhai), bought tickets, rented horses, and packed up. We entered the scenic area lightly loaded, walking along the beautiful grasslands by the high-altitude lake. The base camp was on the other side of the lake, so we had to walk around the lakeshore, wading through icy water at cliff areas. We arrived at the base camp (BC) at 2:30 PM, at an altitude of 3,900 meters. It was the first time sleeping in a large disaster relief tent. We dried our shoes and sleeping bags. The coaches boiled water, while Shu, Siyang, and Arthur cooked. Jin Wogei, Glenn, and I organized and distributed the high-altitude and travel food. Dinner was cooked in the small kitchen tent, which had outdoor tables and chairs. The meal was hearty, and everyone was in good spirits and appetite. Except me — as usual at high altitudes, I ate very little, mainly because I didn’t have much of an appetite for hot food. But afterward, most people had some mild altitude sickness. When it got dark, it got very cold outside, so we retreated into the large tent. At 8:30 PM, the golden sunlight of dusk illuminated the snow-capped peaks of Que'er Mountain. The stars twinkled in the night sky. Siyang had a slight fever and felt weak, while I was more acclimatized and felt energetic, so I went out to wash the dishes. Before bed, we had a meeting in the gear tent to discuss the climbing plan. Lao Yao stayed at BC. Tomorrow, three coaches — Wang Qiang, Sun Qiang, and Kang Yong — would lead us in carrying tents up to C1. If the weather stayed good, we’d go to C2 the day after, and summit and descend the day after that. We tested the crampons. The coaches also set up a protection station inside the tent using ice axes to simulate ascending and descending practice. Arthur, Jin Wogei, and other less technically skilled members practiced tirelessly despite exhaustion. Little did we know later experiences would prove we hadn’t trained enough.
Day 3 · July 13 · Sunny
We woke up freezing and left after eating leftover soup and congee from the previous night. We set off from BC with full loads toward C1. Everyone was in good spirits, and Siyang’s altitude sickness had improved somewhat. One coach, Shu, and I each carried a high-altitude tent. The initial section was flat grassland dotted with small streams, with fresh and cool air, allowing us to move quickly. Upon reaching Ganghaizi, we entered a rockfall zone, and from then on, we wore helmets throughout. We climbed upward along scree slopes or piles of boulders next to huge waterfalls. The dry, scorching sun was dizzying. Wearing too much made us dehydrated, and energy was consumed quickly at high altitudes. Fortunately, below 4,500 meters, there was vegetation, so oxygen wasn’t too scarce. Jin Wogei walked slowly and was always at the back. People ahead often had to stop and wait. The increasingly hot weather slowed us down. Later, Shu and I slowed because of our heavy loads, our steps becoming heavier. At 3:30 PM, we finally felt a hint of coolness when we reached C1 at 4,800 meters, a small rocky platform at the end of a glacier. We set up camp, fetched water, boiled water, and cooked. Right after setting up the tents at C1, I felt awful and lay down to rest. After recovering a bit, I started cooking. The weather was great. The plan was to go straight to C2 the next day, but since I wasn’t feeling well, I had to ask Glenn to carry the tent.
Day 4 · July 14 · Sunny
I felt much better in the morning. I dressed quickly, used the toilet, boiled water, made juice, ate, washed the pot, packed, and disassembled the tent. But overall, we were still about half an hour behind schedule. I still felt a bit dizzy, so shamelessly handed the tent over to Glenn. Shu seemed much weaker after the night. We set off at 8:30 AM. After climbing a small slope, we reached the glacier boot-changing spot. I’d never seen such a vast, endless glacier before. At first, it was a wide, bright ice slope with relatively dark ice, occasionally crossed by small streams or gullies. It was fairly easy to cross using crampons. Siyang, Arthur, and Glenn were in great shape and walked ahead. I gradually recovered and felt good. However, both of my crampons were digging painfully into the backs of my heels. Every step caused sharp pain. I stopped several times trying to adjust them, but moving the straps back only loosened the fit, making the following journey dangerous. I had to endure it — the hazard of wearing boots that were too big. Siyang had the same issue. After the climb, both of our heels had large patches of skin peeled off. Shu and Jin Wogei were in terrible shape and walked at the back. Shu handed the tent over to the seemingly invincible Arthur. When we reached the traditional C1 boulder area, we stopped to rest and began rope teaming up. The upcoming section had alternating exposed and hidden crevasses, necessitating rope teams. Based on positions, speed, and prior pace, our nine members divided into two rope teams. The front team consisted of Siyang, Arthur, Glenn, and coaches Wang Qiang and Sun Qiang. The back team had Jin Wogei, Shu, me, and coach Kang Yong. In our team, Coach Kang was first, Jin Wogei second, me third, and Shu last. We advanced together. The bright ice slope gradually steepened. Some deep, wide crevasses appeared on the ground, which we could mostly bypass or step over. We could still see the front team not far ahead. Although it was our first time roping up, the rope distance and rhythm were maintained quite well at first. Small ice walls slowed the front team, but they handled German steps and ice picks without trouble. However, when the front teammates were climbing, the tension from the rope might pull them toward dangerous spots like snow bridges or crevasses, or pull the people in front or back. When I stepped onto the first step of my climb, the brittle ice shell broke, and I fell into a crevasse for the first time in my life. My mind went blank. Fortunately, it was only chest-deep. My ungloved right hand was scratched by sharp ice edges. I crawled out and proceeded cautiously. We had reached the snow line. A thin layer of snow covered the glacier, and hidden crevasses weren’t too numerous yet. Ahead was a roughly 10-meter ice wall with a fixed rope. We could use German steps and push ascenders to get up. The front team took quite a while to ascend and rested near the approach to the big snow slope, waiting for us. The only new team member who hadn’t attended winter training or summer climbs, Jin Wogei, got stuck. Technically, she lacked experience with the front-pointing steps, and psychologically, she lacked confidence in using the ascender, leaving her stuck under the ice wall. Those ahead and behind were anxious but couldn’t help. The rope team was also disorganized. After nearly an hour of inefficient struggle, the four of us passed the ice wall at 2:00 PM. Coach Kang said there was no way we could reach C2 by 9:00 PM. I knew it was hopeless. At that moment, I had one thought: we absolutely could not remain in the crevasse area when it got dark. With insufficient time, we had to descend. The front team didn’t need to wait for us. Jin Wogei and Shu’s conditions worsened. Every few steps tightened the rope. Our water supply was also gone. The back team moved slower and slower, and the gap widened. We only reached the area before the big snow slope at 2:30 PM. The only option was to descend. Coach Kang and climbing captain Shu agreed. Regretful as it was, we were on the same rope team. Protecting our own lives was also protecting our teammates’. Mountaineering doesn’t allow reckless impulses. One more important thing remained: the team flag and all the sponsor flags were in my bag. I had to catch up and hand them to the front team. So, as a last resort, on a relatively safe small platform, we untied the rope team. Jin Wogei and Shu sat and waited. Coach Kang and I, roped up with him in front and me behind, entered the big snow slope to catch up with the front team. We were already halfway up to C2, but the hardest part — the snow slope — was just beginning. This nearly flat, deep snow area at 5,400 meters stretched 2 km in straight-line distance. The snow was soft. Even stepping in others’ footprints could mean sinking to the knees. Hidden crevasses were everywhere, so we had to follow route flags and previous footprints. In the distance, we could see the front team moving slowly. The danger of a two-person rope team, the exhaustion of stepping into soft snow, the terror of falling into crevasses, and the endless desolation were all unprecedented tests of body and mind. Finally, we caught up. We shouted, “One summit, glory for the whole team!” We took photos, watched the front team leave, and turned to descend. What I had climbed was only the beginning of the snow slope. There was still a long way to go. I was lucky, and yet unlucky. During the descent, the only ice screw at the ice wall protection anchor came loose just as I was about to descend. That was a bit frightening. We safely descended back to C1 at 8:00 PM. Shu’s altitude sickness had worsened. The radio had poor sound quality, so I called Siyang, who had just arrived at C2, using my phone. Their condition wasn’t great either, especially Glenn. Because I hadn’t adapted well and had him carry the tent, I truly felt guilty. I wouldn’t push them to summit. Doing their best to climb their own personal peaks was enough. That’s why I had no regrets about the descent. The night sky was beautiful.
Day 5 "July 15" Blizzard
It howled outside the tent all night. I woke up at 8:00 AM. When I opened the door, wet snow blew in, and the wind kept raging. I had to go back to sleep. The dream of going to the glacier today to find a small ice wall for ice climbing was shattered. I lay there for a long time. Eventually, I had to get up to use the toilet, boil water, and cook. I forced myself out. My high-altitude boots, covered in plastic bags, were soaked. I gritted my teeth and put on the only shoes I had. It was the first time I’d seen such heavy snow in summer, mixed with strong winds and fog, with extremely low visibility. Because I was too lazy to put on my down jacket, I shivered in the cold outdoors. Jin Wogei and Shu had recovered quite a bit and were still resting in the tent. Coach Kang was alone in the other tent, using the radio to communicate with Captain Wang from the summit team above. They were having an even tougher time. The weather had suddenly turned. Above 5,600 meters at C2 and beyond, they must have faced an even fiercer blizzard. They didn’t summit and had begun descending. We could only hope they withdrew safely. The environment at C1 was harsh. Food was running low, and Shu still had altitude sickness. I discussed with Coach Kang that we’d wait until the weather improved by noon (at least get a bit warmer) before descending to BC. At 11:00 AM, the snow still hadn’t stopped, and it was still very cold, but we braved the snow and began descending. Jin Wogei’s knees, damaged since yesterday, hurt even more, and he walked even more slowly. The descent was generally uneventful. After descending in altitude, Shu gradually recovered as well. Soon, we dropped below the clouds, and the snow turned to rain. Looking up the mountain, everything was hazy. The radio brought updates from above all the way down: retreating from C2 — dismantling camp — big snow slope — ice wall — bright ice slope. It wasn’t easy for them, exhausted as they were. On the way down, I chatted with Coach Kang. Our group still had a lot to learn. Just the snow slope technique alone was worth another winter training session. A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step... We arrived back at BC, which we hadn’t seen for three days, at 4:00 PM. The sun was shining brightly. I didn’t feel tired, just powerless in the face of the harsh weather. At 8:30 PM, near sunset, the summit team returned to BC. We had an emotional reunion and a joyful group meal. Glenn’s snow-blind eyes, Arthur’s sunburned face, and Siyang’s worn-down heels didn’t diminish the heroic spirit and laughter of the moment. They had only arrived at C2 at 8:30 PM the previous day and had less than seven hours of rest. Glenn stayed at C2 due to discomfort. Siyang and Arthur set off for the summit at dawn. They crossed a big ice wall in the blizzard to reach 5,800 meters, exhausted. Then the snow covered the ropes, and the fog made it impossible for the coaches to find the route, so they had to descend. Descending in such weather, especially when exhausted, was incredibly tough. We’re proud of them anyway. The last night in the mountains.
Day 6 "July 16" Cloudy to Sunny
We’d been waiting for the sun since the night before. The signal towers in the mountains are solar-powered. At 9:30 AM, the thick fog cleared. We called the horse team to head down the mountain. Since many of us had injured feet and couldn’t wade through water, we decided to ride horses all the way. The horses wound through the mountainsides. Looking back at the gradually distant peaks, the summit appeared one last time, reflected in the Xinluhai Lake below. Goodbye, my Que'er Mountain. Goodbye, my 20s. At the scenic area entrance at noon, we dismounted and switched to vehicles. We reached Manigange to return the equipment and had lunch. After lunch, we settled the final bill. Thanks to Shu, who had fronted a huge amount of money for us all the way. Jin Wogei said goodbye here and began her solo journey hitchhiking to Lhasa and Nepal. Wishing her a smooth trip. Coaches Kang and Sun stayed behind to prepare for leading the Agricultural University team entering the mountains tomorrow. Lao Yao and Captain Wang drove us back to Garzê. Along the way, we had grand discussions about the meaning of mountaineering. I think this will be a lifelong hobby, and I also enjoyed the atmosphere of the student mountaineering team. But my energy no longer allows me to take on the daily tasks of organizing, planning, finding media, and soliciting sponsorships. The efforts I’ve made for this team over the past six months — as much as can be recorded — have been documented. I hope it helps future members and contributes to the growth of Fudan’s climbing endeavors. Future climbs will be about enjoying pure climbing joy with friends, doing one or two climbs a year as a vacation. Arthur, Siyang, and I have already agreed with Lao Yao to meet again in Shuangqiaogou in half a year. Goodbye, my climbing captain career. Once again, at that familiar little restaurant near the Garzê bus station, we seven had our farewell dinner. Amidst toasts, we shared the experiences of these past days. Tomorrow morning, we’ll each go our separate ways. Goodbye, my comrades-in-arms.
Tan Yixin
Saturday, August 9, 2014, Shanghai