When it comes to the allure of Kyushu in Japan, you may have already heard of the renowned hot spring town of Yufuin, where abundant, colorless and transparent hot spring water offers a smooth touch to the skin, making it particularly popular among women. From the open-air baths and guest rooms of local inns, you can gaze at Mount Yufu in the distance. Especially during the transition from autumn to early winter, the sight of Lake Kinrin enveloped in morning mist is a unique attraction that draws numerous domestic and international tourists.
Located in the central part of Oita Prefecture and surrounded by mountains, Yufuin owes its abundant hot springs to Mount Yufu, boasting the third highest volume of spring water discharge in Japan. It is said that from the Taisho to Showa periods, Yufuin was famous as a villa destination. Through continuous development and a relentless pursuit of hot spring excellence, it has now grown into a hot spring resort that rivals the eastern Karuizawa. With such stunning scenery, how can one best experience it to the fullest?
Today, let us introduce you to one of JR Kyushu’s popular sightseeing trains — the Yufuin no Mori. A distinctive sightseeing “dream train” that runs from Hakata to Yufuin.
A dream — a different kind of scenery
If there is one must-see attraction in Yufuin, it is undoubtedly Lake Kinrin.
Located in the liveliest area of Yufuin, Lake Kinrin is said to have been named by Confucian scholar Mori Kousou after he noticed the golden reflections of fish scales on the lake’s surface when sunlight hit the water in 1884 (Meiji 17).
Lake Kinrin is famed for its dreamy scenery of morning mist in the early winter dawn and is one of Yufuin’s iconic sights. This small lake, with a circumference of about 400 meters, uniquely has hot spring water gushing from its western side and clear groundwater from its eastern side, creating a mystifying mix of warm and cool waters. To this day, hot springs continue to emerge from the lakebed. The temperature difference between the hot spring water and the clear water causes thick mist to form on the lake’s surface, resulting in a hazy, dreamlike vista. Strolling along the lakeside and viewing the ever-changing reflections from different angles, with the mountains of Mount Yufu in the distance, offers a truly picturesque landscape. At dusk, the lake glimmers as if covered with golden fish scales under the setting sun, creating an enchanting scene. When calm and waveless, the lake’s surface mirrors the continuous range of Mount Yufu, offering a view so beautiful it resembles a painting.
The torii gate standing in the lake was relocated here from Fumonji Temple under the Meiji-era Shinto-Buddhism separation order. The presence of the torii gate amidst the morning mist adds a sacred aura to the entire Lake Kinrin.
Information about the Yufuin no Mori Train:
1. Regarding seating: All seats are reserved, and the entire train is non-smoking. It is recommended to book in advance.
2. Regarding train services: There are two types of train services throughout the year. The five-carriage Trains 1, 2, 5, and 6 run between Hakata and Yufuin, making two round trips daily, while the four-carriage Trains 3 and 4 go from Hakata to Yufuin to Oita to Beppu, making one round trip daily. A total of three services run each day.
3. Regarding fares: The fare for the Hakata-Yufuin section is approximately 4,550 yen. The JR Kyushu Rail Pass allows you to ride the Yufuin no Mori, but seats must be reserved in advance. There are also options such as the Hakata-Yufuin JR Limited Express Twin Ticket and various station-to-Yufuin JR round-trip tickets (valid for five days).
4. Other: Since the limited express Yufuin no Mori has an elevated structure, there are stairs at the doors. Additionally, the aisles inside the carriages are relatively narrow (550 mm), which may prevent wheelchair access. If you need to use a wheelchair, please consult the staff in advance.
In addition to the Yufuin no Mori, JR Kyushu operates a variety of sightseeing trains on different routes, each with its own unique style. There’s the “Aso Boy!” loved by both adults and children, the “Kyushu Odan Tokkyu” that takes you through endless scenic beauty, the nostalgic “SL Hitoyoshi” that feels like a journey back in time, and the fairy-tale-like “Ibusuki no Tamatebako” that heads to the sand steam resort, among others. Riding any of the JR Kyushu trains is a brand-new travel experience, and once you try it, you won’t be able to resist the urge to explore new ways of traveling.
Friendly Reminder:
For exploring Kyushu, it is recommended to purchase the JR Train Pass — the JR Kyushu Rail Pass. The JR Kyushu Railway connects the major cities of the Kyushu region and is an essential mode of transport for efficiently exploring the area. The JR Kyushu Rail Pass comes in 3-day and 5-day versions, with options for either the northern Kyushu region or the entire Kyushu region. The pass allows unlimited rides on all JR Kyushu trains (excluding the Shinkansen between Hakata and Kokura).
The JR Kyushu Rail Pass is available only to foreign travelers with short-term stay status. Typically, you can first purchase an “Exchange Order” from a travel agency in China, then exchange it for the actual JR Kyushu Rail Pass at a designated location in Kyushu with your passport. Alternatively, you can purchase the JR Kyushu Rail Pass directly in Japan with your passport. When exchanging or purchasing the pass in Japan, you will need to reserve a reserved seat at the station counter.