The crisp autumn air, savoring crabs and admiring chrysanthemums, is an annual joy not to be missed. An ancient poet once wrote: “To miss Mount Lu is to miss the view; to miss eating crabs is to miss a feast.” Now that the autumn breeze is gradually rising, it’s the perfect time to enjoy plump, fatty crabs.
Yangcheng Lake is located in the northeast of Suzhou, covering an area of 120 square kilometers, approximately 180,000 mu. The entire elongated and winding Yangcheng Lake can be roughly divided into three parts: eastern, western, and central. The eastern and central parts of Yangcheng Lake generally have shallow lakebeds, about two to three meters deep, with the deepest points reaching only three to four meters, and the terrain is flat. In contrast, many areas of the western lakebed are unusually deep, shaped like troughs, and stretch for long distances.
Bacheng Town is located on the eastern shore of Yangcheng Lake in the northwest of Kunshan City, bordering Shanghai to the east and Suzhou to the west. With its delightful clear waters and serene rural scenery, it is widely known as the “Hometown of Chinese Yangcheng Lake Hairy Crabs” and is even hailed as the “No.1 Crab City in the World.” Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs have long been regarded as the finest among crabs. This is related to the unique ecological environment of Yangcheng Lake. The lake spans hundreds of square kilometers, with rippling blue waves, crystal-clear water as smooth as a mirror, shallow depths with hard lakebeds, lush aquatic plants, wide expanses, and a suitable climate—making it the most ideal “crystal palace” for crabs to settle and grow. As a result, the shape and meat quality of Yangcheng Lake crabs are quite distinct within the crab family. Their shape is characterized by four main features: first, a green back—the shell is bluish-gray, smooth, and glossy; second, a white belly—the navel and shell that touch the mud are crystal-clear white without any blackness; third, yellow hairs—the hairs on the eight legs are both yellow and long, and stand upright; fourth, golden claws—the claws are golden-yellow, sturdy, and powerful—even on glass, the crab can stand firmly on all eight legs with its pincers raised. Truly one of a kind.
“When the autumn wind rises, the crab’s feet itch.” It’s believed that many food lovers are loyal fans of Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs. Nowadays, as the autumn breeze begins to rise, the crabs are waiting for diners. Zhu, the owner of A Si Crab House—a member of the Bacheng Yangcheng Lake Hairy Crab Industry Association—told reporters that with the improvement of the domestic economic level, people's living standards have gradually risen. “Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs” have also shed labels such as “luxury” and “high-priced.” Every year from September to December is when the crabs are richest in roe and fat. On average, 5,000 vehicles come to Bacheng to eat crabs daily. Dining on Yangcheng Lake crabs is a staple autumn and winter activity for Shanghai residents. It’s said that at many crab restaurants in Bacheng, at least 60% of customers come from Shanghai.
A Si Crab House is a boat-style restaurant specifically built for enjoying hairy crabs. It is located at Entrance 1 of Chunqiu Shuicheng Crab House Garden, No. 1 Xiangshi Road, Bacheng Town, Kunshan City. From Shanghai, drive onto G2 Beijing-Shanghai Expressway heading toward Nanjing. After passing the “Kunshan, Zhangpu” exit without exiting, continue for another 6 kilometers, then turn onto S5 Ring Expressway toward Bacheng and Changshu. At the first exit, “Bacheng, Kunshan,” do not exit but continue straight for 7 kilometers, then turn onto S48 toward Wuxi. Drive another 6 kilometers and exit at “Yangcheng Lake North, Bacheng North.” After exiting the toll station, turn left and drive about 1.2 kilometers to Entrance 1 of Chunqiu Shuicheng Crab House Garden, where you’ll find A Si Crab House.
The owner of the crab house is a native of Yangcheng Lake and was among the first to farm and sell Yangcheng Lake crabs. In the early days of business, Yangcheng Lake was undeveloped and quite desolate. Leveraging his roots in the area, he began producing and selling Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs himself. In 1995, he started leasing water surfaces and using net enclosures to farm crabs. The challenges during that time were countless—for example, continuous rain during the plum rain season caused water levels to rise, flooding the nets and allowing crabs to escape, resulting in serious losses. Gradually learning from experience and refining his methods, he slowly began turning a profit. A Si Farm evolved from a single-focus farming operation into a comprehensive enterprise offering a full range of services including farming, sales, dining, leisure, and vacation. It has also become a member unit of the Yangcheng Lake Hairy Crab Association.
Aside from enjoying delicious hairy crabs, the fresh farmhouse dishes are also highly distinctive and not to be missed—including dried small fish, old hen soup, clam meat with greens, and more. After getting used to refined dishes, occasionally visiting the crab house to experience the rustic charm of the countryside offers a uniquely delightful flavor. After a hearty meal, you can visit the Hairy Crab Museum, explore the ancient town of Bacheng, or take a stroll in the Yangcheng Lake Water Park. Although the scenery here lacks the hustle and bustle of big cities, it offers a peaceful and tranquil atmosphere—allowing you to relieve stress and unwind after a busy day of work.