The snowfield bears beautiful wind patterns, and the elm branches, draped entirely in white snow, stretch their curved arms into the air. Nothing stirs; the snow has almost fallen silent, save for the occasional whisper of the wind as it drifts by—perhaps it will never forget how someone once trampled upon this brief, peaceful slumber with their boots. ...
------------ "Hard-Boiled Wonderland and the End of the World" by Haruki Murakami
When I told my friends that I planned to visit Kanas in Xinjiang at the end of December, nearly all of them advised against it: “Kanas is closed in winter and inaccessible,” “autumn is the most beautiful season there,” “what’s so great about snowy landscapes—it’s just endless white,” and similar remarks. But the hustle and bustle of the peak summer and autumn seasons robs the place of its original tranquility and purity, whereas winter reveals its true essence.
Indeed, most people wouldn’t choose Kanas as their first winter travel destination, and precisely for that reason, winter in Kanas retains its most beautiful and authentic side.
For more information about traveling in Xinjiang or photography discussions, feel free to leave a comment below or add me on WeChat.
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'D Pre-Trip Preparation 'D
About Clothing
This was also the question my friends asked me most after I got back. The average temperature in the Kanas scenic area at the end of December hovers around -20°C to -30°C. With mostly natural landscapes, you’ll spend quite a bit of time outdoors. Fortunately, the air is dry, so you don’t need overly bulky clothing to stay warm. Below is a rough idea of what I wore during those days for your reference:
Columbia outdoor breathable, quick-dry thermal base layer
Breathability and quick-drying are the two most important keywords when choosing base layers. These allow you to stay fresh and comfortable throughout each day of your journey. This particular thermal underwear also features Columbia’s exclusive Omni-Heat™ reflective technology, which effectively reflects and retains body heat to regulate your temperature—an excellent choice for base layers.
Decathlon Wed’ze series wool thermal top
Worn over the base layer is this wool thermal top from Decathlon. Admittedly, its outstanding cost-performance ratio was the key reason I bought it. The wool top and pants together cost less than 400 yuan, yet they provide excellent warmth.
Blackyak Goretex waterproof hiking pants
No need for further explanation—the classic Blackyak hiking pants with Gtx coating offer top-notch windproof and waterproof performance.
Lonsdale multi-functional waterproof down jacket
I have to say, the MVP of this trip was none other than this jacket. I had originally planned to wear a down coat to Kanas, but regular down coats aren’t very warm. In addition to the layers mentioned above, I would’ve needed even more insulation. But on the night before departure, I received this Lonsdale down jacket, and it far exceeded my expectations in terms of warmth, comfort, and design details. Despite not being very thick, it kept me wonderfully warm throughout the trip.
Lonsdale Warmax ultra-thin down jacket
I had brought this as an extra layer in case of extreme cold, but I didn’t actually wear it thanks to the warmth of the previous jacket. However, I ended up using it constantly throughout the trip. Why? Because this jacket can be folded into a down pillow, taking up minimal space in your bag. It was incredibly convenient to use as a pillow when napping on planes or buses.
Just in case, it’s still recommended that winter travelers bring one or two extra clothing items based on your own needs—especially thermal base layers like fleece tops and bottoms. Also, don’t forget gloves, hats, snow gaiters, thick socks, a thermos, heat pads, and some snacks.
Sunglasses are a must-have. Must-have. Must-have. I’ll say it three times.
About Food
What I couldn’t get enough of in Xinjiang was the food—yogurt, lamb skewers, pilaf, dapanji (chicken with potatoes), and lamb-stuffed naan—it was a recipe for gaining ten pounds. While dining prices are generally higher, you definitely won’t go hungry. Staying with local herders is highly recommended to experience the most authentic and culturally rich cuisine.
About Accommodation
If traveling on weekends or holidays, make sure to book your accommodation in advance, or you’ll waste a lot of time searching when you arrive. Options abound in Kanas, Baihaba, Hemu, and nearby villages, all with decent environments and ample heating—no worries about freezing. You can choose whatever suits you best. During our stay, we lodged with local herders, sharing a room with our four companions, which made every day fun.
About Transportation
Since the Kanas Airport is closed in winter, the only way to reach Kanas is by taking land transportation such as off-road vehicles after arriving in Altay. To get from Urumqi to Altay, you can choose either train or plane. Below is our transportation information for this trip:
Outbound: CA4151 Chengdu – Urumqi; CZ6843 Urumqi – Altay
Return: CZ6846 Altay – Urumqi; UQ2509 Urumqi – Chengdu
Tips: Flights to Xinjiang are very cheap in winter. For example, Air China flights from Chengdu to Urumqi are only 190 yuan, and round-trip flights between Urumqi and Altay with China Southern Airlines cost less than 600 yuan. Of course, if you have enough time, it’s recommended to take the train from Urumqi to Altay (get off at Beitun Station).
△The vehicles we took during this trip
About the Itinerary
During the 8 days after arriving in Altay, we visited three major scenic spots within the Kanas Scenic Area: Kanas, Baihaba Village, and Hemu Village. We traveled the entire round trip from Altay by off-road vehicle. Remember, for safety and a smooth trip, you must take an off-road vehicle when visiting Kanas in winter.
About the Route
DAY1 Urumqi – Altay – Burqin
DAY2 Burqin – Baihaba
DAY3 Baihaba – Kanas
DAY4 Kanas Lake & Kanas Three Bays
DAY5 Kanas – Hemu
DAY6 Hemu – Meilifeng – Hemu
DAY7 Hemu – Burqin
DAY8 Burqin – Altay – Urumqi
The section from “Altay to Burqin” has some light snow, but it doesn’t affect driving. In general, all types of vehicles can pass through smoothly. However, starting from “Burqin,” the snow becomes noticeably heavier, with some sections completely covered by snow. This is where off-road vehicles shine. But no matter what, always travel with two or more vehicles so you can assist each other if needed.
Tips: It’s highly recommended to book a local, reliable off-road vehicle fleet in advance for chartered travel in the Altay region. Local drivers are experienced and can easily handle various road and weather conditions, ensuring your safety. They also provide great recommendations for dining and accommodation.
That’s all for the preparations. Feel free to leave any questions in the comments below this article, and we’ll respond promptly. Now let’s begin our journey.
DAY1 Urumqi – Altay – Burqin
We encountered quite a bit of trouble on Day 1. After arriving in Urumqi, a sudden heavy snowfall in Altay caused the airport to close urgently, and our flight was canceled. We had to reschedule our tickets to Day 3. Therefore, the “Day 1” mentioned here actually refers to two days later, with arrival in Altay being considered Day 1 of the journey.
△China Southern Airlines CZ6843 Urumqi – Altay, E190 aircraft, 1-hour flight
Finally, after experiencing flight cancellations and airport closures, we took off successfully on Day 3. Just before landing, snow began to fall again. We landed at Altay Airport in the snow. By then, the runway was already covered with ice and snow, giving the sensation that the plane couldn’t stop. It took a long time to decelerate after touchdown.
△Altay Airport is relatively small. After landing, you need to walk to the terminal to collect your luggage.
For this trip, we chose a chartered car. Over the next few days, an experienced local off-road driver would take us to the Kanas area. Additionally, drivers would form convoys for the journey to rescue each other in case of getting stuck.
△The Toyota Land Cruiser 4500 that accompanied us for 8 days
After arriving in Altay, we immediately set off for Burqin. The road condition from “Altay to Burqin” was relatively good, with only light snow. The drive took about 1 hour. The roadsides were covered in snowfields, and occasionally we passed small villages where locals rode horses along the road — a completely white world.
△Roadside markers used for gauging road width in snowy or foggy conditions when visibility is poor
We passed by a wetland, with many reeds lining the roadside. Unlike other seasons, these reeds were dancing gracefully in the icy river. To find a high vantage point for photos, we used the off-road vehicle as a shooting platform.
Not far from Burqin is the famous Yardang landform scenic spot, Five-Color Beach, but Five-Color Beach is mostly closed in winter and inaccessible. Next to Five-Color Beach, in the village of Aketuke, there is an iron suspension bridge that spans the Ertix River — the only river in China that flows into the Arctic Ocean.
△ A horse in the forest near Aketuke foraging for pinecones
Tips: Burqin County is a great transit point, making it much more convenient to reach various attractions. After arriving in Altay, you can head to Burqin first — there’s no need to stay in Altay.
DAY2 Burqin - Terekty - Baihaba - Terekty
The next day marked the official start of our Kanas journey. Our first stop was Baihaba Village, known as the “Northwest’s No. 1 Outpost.” But little did we know that we were about to encounter a once-in-a-decade heavy snowfall. Early in the morning, we got news that the snow from the previous night had blocked the road, and the journey to Baihaba might be extremely difficult. We set off immediately to avoid being stranded overnight.
△ The upper reaches of the Burqin River, where the water flow is relatively rapid, were not yet completely frozen at this time.
△ A Toyota Land Cruiser speeding across the snowy plains
The most suitable rest stop along the way was the Hujite Grassland, located 38 kilometers northeast of Hoboksar County and 2.5 kilometers northwest of Bayanjure Mountain. By the time we arrived, it was already noon. It is highly recommended to have a picnic or take a break here — the scenery is absolutely breathtaking.
△ Hujite Grassland
△ Driver Yang, with his exceptional driving skills
△ This is why traveling in a convoy of several vehicles is necessary — for mutual assistance if needed
But… the good times didn’t last. As we were about to reach Baihaba Village in the evening, it started to snow heavily. The snow was too deep for the vehicles to move forward, so we had to turn back to the nearby village — Terekty Township, which we had just passed.
DAY3 Terekty - Baihaba - Terekty
Since we had arrived the previous night after dark, we had no idea what the village looked like. It wasn’t until the sun rose today that we could properly explore this beautiful place. Though the village is small, it has everything it needs — after all, it’s the essential stop on the way to Baihaba. There are guesthouses, restaurants, and small shops.
△ Sunrise in Terekty Village
△ Children on their way to school
△ The village is surrounded by forests. We ventured deep inside for a long time, encountering streams, animals, and snow as high as a person — a truly unique experience.
After spending a leisurely day here, at 8 p.m., we got news that the road to Baihaba had finally opened. We immediately set off, but along the way, another blizzard hit. Our four vehicles got stuck in the snow repeatedly. At 1 a.m., we decided to give up on going to Baihaba and returned to Terekty Township.
△ Countless snowbound nights
DAY4 Terekty - Chonghur Town - Kanas Village
After a sleepless night, we returned to Terekty Village, rested briefly, and then continued on to Kanas. Finally, after driving continuously for 21 hours, we arrived at Kanas Village in the evening.
△ There was absolutely no road
△ Finally, we saw a snowplow
The heavy snow hadn’t stopped almost since the day we arrived in Urumqi, delaying our journey by several days. Later, we learned that it had been snowing throughout our entire 14-day stay in Xinjiang — the first time such a thing had happened in decades.
DAY5 Kanas Village
To make up for the lost time earlier in the week, we decided to head to Hemu in the afternoon. We spent the morning at Kanas Lake and the Three Bays of Kanas. But in the morning, we got news that the road out of Kanas was blocked due to an avalanche and wouldn’t reopen until the next day. That worked out well, though, as it gave us a full day to spend in the scenic area. Unfortunately, Kanas’ most famous Three Bays — Wolong Bay, Moon Bay, and Fairy Bay — were all shrouded in low visibility due to the heavy snow.
With some extra time, we decided to go on a hiking adventure on Kanas Lake, searching for the legendary Kanas Monster (＃°Д°)
△ Kanas Lake covered in ice and snow
Winter Kanas Lake is different from its sapphire-blue surface in other seasons — the entire lake is covered in ice and snow. You can walk on the ice, but to ensure safety and reduce energy expenditure, we had prepared a secret weapon in advance — snowshoes. By distributing your body weight over a larger area, they prevent your feet from sinking deep into the snow. With them, we could walk quickly and safely through the snow.
△ A lonely backdrop — the scene from The Revenant is about to begin...
During the hike, I also did a live stream on Douyu TV. Besides sharing interesting moments from the journey, I also shared a lot of photography tips. Feel free to follow me—there will be more live streams from future trips. The Douyu room number is 505777.
△ Hovercraft makes a surprise appearance
After hiking back to shore, we followed the exit stream of Kanas all the way back to the village. This path is incredibly beautiful because the fast-flowing water at the outlet prevents it from freezing, creating a striking contrast with the snowy landscape around it—almost like a scene from Leonardo DiCaprio’s *The Revenant*.
We set off before dawn on the road to Hemu. The road was covered in a thick layer of snow, but fortunately, it didn’t affect driving. There were many vehicles today, yet the surroundings were very quiet. Driver Liu told us that on roads with steep slopes like this, avalanches are extremely likely, and not using the horn is one of the best ways to avoid triggering one.
DAY 6 Kanas Village – Hemu Village
This time, I had the privilege of witnessing Kazakhstan’s most exciting traditional sport—horseback sheep snatching (Buzkashi). Teams of ten riders compete, and at the signal, both teams gallop forward. The skilled riders, with their fast horses, grab the sheep, tuck it under their legs or carry it on their saddles, and dash off in any direction while others chase and try to snatch it back. After repeated back-and-forth struggles, the team that finally places the sheep at the designated spot wins. On New Year’s Day, Hemu hosts an Ice and Snow Festival, featuring many ethnic and folk performances—it’s definitely worth seeing. If you’re traveling during the New Year holiday, this place comes highly recommended.
DAY 7 Hemu Village – Burqin
In Hemu, there are two must-do experiences. One is definitely taking a horse-drawn sleigh ride. Also called a sled or "pulled wooden board," it used to be the main mode of transportation for locals. Riding through the forests and ancient paths feels like traveling back in time. Yesterday, I arranged with the sleigh driver to take a sleigh to Meilifeng, a nearly isolated village with only eight households, surrounded by mountains and even more deserted in winter. Even better, the two-hour sleigh ride involves countless ups and downs, offering thrilling excitement that you’ll want to soak in fully.
But this morning, the sleigh driver knocked on our door to say that last night’s heavy snow had completely blocked the road—even the sleigh couldn’t get through. So Meilifeng was out of the question, but we could still take the sleigh to watch the sunrise. And speaking of sunrises, that’s the other must-do experience in Hemu.
△ The car we just cleaned last night is now completely covered in snow again
The best spot to watch the sunrise is the platform on the mountain behind Hemu Village. After crossing the bridge over the Hemu River, there are two paths: turning left leads to the horse-drawn sleigh route, while going right takes you on foot up to the platform. The hike takes about 40 minutes, and the scenery along the way is even better than what you’d see from the sleigh. So, I recommend taking the sleigh to Meilifeng and hiking up to the platform for sunrise.
△ Travel companions from several trips including the Xianuoduoji, Mount Kailash, Mount Meili kora, and Mount Siguniang Second Peak climbs 0?o%
△The mountains are calling and i must go
△Foreign tourists who came to the mountain to ski
We had originally planned to return after dinner, but after driving just out of the village, we encountered an avalanche that had just occurred — it was about 20 meters long and roughly 3 meters high. We had no choice but to return to the village and wait. The driver said that if any local drivers were going in or out of the village that night, they would manually dig out a path. Sure enough, around midnight, we heard vehicles in the village, realizing the road had been cleared, so we set off promptly. The avalanche section had been dug open.
△Another section of the avalanche road, but this one was cleared by a snowplow during the day
DAY8 Burqin – Altay – Urumqi
Although this trip involved extreme situations such as an avalanche and driving all night through snowy roads, I believe it was also a wonderful life experience. Moreover, having my friends with me made this journey even more unforgettable... This place also gave us many surprises, didn’t it?
I’ll update here for now. Later on, I’ll gradually share some moments from this trip with my friends, as well as bits of tips and content related to photography techniques.
If you’d like to know more about traveling in Xinjiang or discuss photography, feel free to leave a message on this thread or add me on WeChat directly.
WeChat / wanghe_film WeChat Official Account / fanshustudio Weibo / @WangHeInChengdu