The selected functional fabrics and materials for AW19/20, chosen by a panel of seasoned experts from various sectors of the textile industry, will be showcased during ISPO Munich 2018 and ISPO Beijing 2018. A comprehensive review of the panel’s feedback reveals that the new season’s autumn/winter fabrics and materials have seen overall improvements in innovation, surface characteristics, and hand feel.
The “ISPO Functional Textile Trend Award” for AW19/20 received a record-breaking 512 samples across 10 categories. The entries span base layers, outerwear, street sports, insulation, and accessories. The “Eco Era” category was particularly popular, and it’s clear that across all fields,environmental protection and sustainability have become the norm in the textile industry.
“Many of the entries impressed me, including some highly innovative ones. In my opinion,samples that combine innovation with sustainability will be the major trend for the future,”said freelance designer Thomas Hakansson.
Innovation and Hand Feel See Major Enhancement
“To be honest, I’ve been a judge for the ‘ISPO Functional Textile Trend Award’ for four years now, and this time it’s the highest quality yet—a significant leap compared to before,” said David Shah, CEO of View Publications. “Innovation is at the heart of this season, so to win in the judging, you must be innovative and truly understand what innovation means,” he said while scoring the global entries.
New samples in films and coatings drew particular attention from the judges.Shah commented on this field: “This is so interesting, absolutely outstanding!” From reflective color-changing effects to abstract printed coatings, ultra-light rip stops, and eco-friendly applications, these new developments undoubtedly intrigued the judges.
Compared to previous editions, the latest developments in films and coatings represent a significant leap. Color has also moved to the forefront, with companies placing greater emphasis on surface effects and the use of contrasting yarns. At the same time, it’s clear that being just good-looking and functional isn’t enough—hand feel must also be excellent, and many entries excelled in these key aspects.
FIR Far-Infrared Fabrics Boost Vitality
Many products were designed with multifunctionality in mind, such as the common double-sided weaves and double-layered fabrics seen this season. Some fabrics adopt weaving methods adapted to specific body parts, eliminating the need for stitching in certain areas of garment production, resulting in more comfortable samples and higher production efficiency.
Multifunctional elements include breathability, temperature control, moisture management, and FIR fabrics and surface treatments,all of which have seen significant improvement this season. The importance of far-infrared fabrics lies in their ability to provide wearers with an energizing experience, reflecting the body’s heat back to enhance thermal circulation and comfort.
Merino Wool Also Delivers Strong Performance
Using single-jersey Merino wool in blended fabrics can deliver high performance while maintaining a natural hand feel. Another development of interest to the jury is the emergence of innovative wool mesh fabrics, which add more functionality to this premium natural fiber and pave the way for a new generation of applications.
Reversible Design Offers Designers New Options
Recycled yarns, films, and recycled cashmere all provide new options for insulation. Biomimicry remains a source of inspiration. Especially in insulation, synthetic materials that mimic the structure of down feathers show considerable promise.
Additionally, the reflective functionality of printed fabrics, accessories, and trimmings has also advanced, integrating safety elements and stronger decorative properties, which are very useful for brands looking to differentiate their product lines.
Double-sided weaves, mesh fabrics, and bonded materials can offer contrast effects in color and pattern, allowing designers to skip sewing processes and provide users with the convenience of reversible wear.
“This technology allows us to examine the reversibility of sewing techniques and appearances. Using new technologies and zippers, I can incorporate beautifully colored and bonded fabrics into my designs. I can also use fabrics on both sides and reduce the need for cutting in my designs, lowering costs,” said designer Ali Ansari, who joined the jury for the first time.
Sustainable Fabrics and Materials Gain Brand Attention“Sustainability” is really in vogue.
Judging by the entries received this time, major brands have embraced this concept across all sample categories, from insulation to films.
“I’m very pleased to be part of the jury and see so much innovation in fabrics and materials across various aspects during the judging process. What’s even more interesting is the significant number of sustainable fabrics and materials, and the fact that so many suppliers and manufacturers are investing heavily in sustainability,” said Sven K, Production Director at Maloja.Nowadays, there are more and more environmentally friendly materials and techniques being used..”
The quality and surface finishing technology have been significantly improved.
As a regular member of the jury for the "ISPO Functional Textiles Trend Award," Bettoni emphasized that although many of the submitted samples were undoubtedly highly innovative,innovation and sustainability alone are not enough—the appearance and tactile feel also need to reach a certain level.
Braz Costa, General Manager of Citeve, also mentioned environmental friendliness. "In terms of sustainability, an increasing number of entries are being submitted. I believe this is very important for the future direction, as the industry has started to focus on recycling and eco-friendly materials."
Another point emphasized by Costa was the near-perfection of this season's submitted samples. With the growing number of entries from around the world, there has been a significant improvement in both product quality and surface finishing technology.
Three Core Themes for AW 19/20
While the jury selected the Top 10 in each category, the three major themes for AW 19/20 also became clear.
The first theme is"Functional Nature,"which refers to introducing natural fibers into the functional product market, leveraging the inherent properties of purely natural materials to enhance the overall functionality and aesthetics of sportswear and outdoor gear.
The second theme is"Lightweight Protection,"which applies not only to membrane series samples but also to highly elastic base layer fabrics, mesh secondary fabrics, and insulating fibers.
The final theme is"Surface Effects,"highlighting the current emphasis on purely optical and physical fabric effects in materials and accessories.
All samples will be displayed in the"ISPO Functional Textiles Trend Award" Winning Products Exhibition Area(ISPO Beijing, Level 3, Booth M3.322) and will also be detailed in the trend booklet.
The Starting Point for AW 19/20
The Winning Products Exhibition Area is a must-visit for designers and product managers, where they can explore the best-selected materials and accessories for the sportswear and outdoor industry this season.
The forum allows attendees to learn about material and accessory producers, grasp the AW 19/20 trends, and engage in face-to-face exchanges with ISPO trend expert Louisa Smith from the UK.
The online registration system for ISPO Beijing 2018 is now live.
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to complete your online registration now.
Free admission to the exhibition awaits you.